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Tie Rod End - Feeling Ripped Off

builderpaul

By builderpaul
in Ask A GM Technician

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builderpaul Enthusiast

builderpaul

Posted
Posted

Took my 04 2500HD with 44K miles on it to the local GMC dealer for the annual state inspection. It failed because of a worn inner tie rod end. I have owned many of these trucks but never had tie rod ends fail even after 100K. Anyway I have to have it done so told dealer to do it. Now I get a call. The inner tie rod is ok, the play they noticed was caused by the idler arm. Need to replace the idler arm. That part is no longer made. It has been changed to an upgraded part. The upgraded part connects to the Pitman arm in a different place so I now also have to replace the Pitman arm (which is good) to use this new idler arm.

Is the info correct? I can imagine GM redisigning the front end but I can't understand why there would be no original parts available so you can just replace the worn part without replacing good parts also. At this point I feel like kicking myself for getting involved with a dealer. Usually do the inspections at my local garage.

SKYrado03 Enthusiast

SKYrado03

Posted
Posted
Damn, checking tie rod ends. Thats one tough state inspection.

Tough , but reasonable.

 

I was going home one morning when I heard a loud crack/bang from the front end in my 78 jimmy.

Two months later, during St.inspection, my mechanic told me I needed the right front inner wheel bearing replaced. I realized then what had happened.

 

Thank God, I did not have anything serious happen in the interim.

For two months I was running with a busted socket, that could of froze up, grabed the steering wheel from my hands, and put me into a bank somewhere.

C & A s Dad Senior Enthusiast

C & A s Dad

Posted
Posted
Damn, checking tie rod ends. Thats one tough state inspection.

 

 

You have to remember, some states actually do an inspection on the vehicle. Unlike where you and I live. I know in MS $5.00 will get you an inspection sticker on you lawn mower.

C & A s Dad Senior Enthusiast

C & A s Dad

Posted
Posted

Paul, I took a look at our E Cataloging on your application and the Idler Arm is now a new and improved design. It comes without the frame bracket and the frame braket can be bought separate. My guess is they are selling you both pieces and this is likely necessary the first time it is replaced. I am not sure of this and am not in a store at this time to ask. Once it is done, if you ever needed to replace it again, you should be able to buy just the Idler arm by itself.

 

Moog is our (CARQUEST) supplier and this is what they list.

 

K 6535 Improved design without frame bracket

K 6723 Frame braket with grease hose adapter

 

The Pitman arm is on one side of the vehicle and the idler arm on the other so I think they just did not do a good jog explaining to you what they were doing.

builderpaul Enthusiast

builderpaul

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Paul, I took a look at our E Cataloging on your application and the Idler Arm is now a new and improved design. It comes without the frame bracket and the frame braket can be bought separate. My guess is they are selling you both pieces and this is likely necessary the first time it is replaced. I am not sure of this and am not in a store at this time to ask. Once it is done, if you ever needed to replace it again, you should be able to buy just the Idler arm by itself.

 

Moog is our (CARQUEST) supplier and this is what they list.

 

K 6535 Improved design without frame bracket

K 6723 Frame braket with grease hose adapter

 

The Pitman arm is on one side of the vehicle and the idler arm on the other so I think they just did not do a good jog explaining to you what they were doing.

 

 

Great info, Thanks. I was upset I couldn't just replace it with the same. That extra bracket doubled the install price. Well maybe they got it right this time and won't have to redisign it again. Same goes for that intermitetate shaft. I have my 3rd one in there now.

SKYrado03 Enthusiast

SKYrado03

Posted
Posted
Same goes for that intermitetate shaft. I have my 3rd one in there now.

After my third one here's what I did.

Call GM customer service, number is in back of drivers manual.

Explain situation, tell the lady/guy, you want the New re-engineered part that came out in Jan. 07,

 

If she takes care of you like mine did, she will ask to put you on hold so she can call your dealer to set up an appoinment, let her/him know what is convienent for you.

 

It was amazing, the difference in treatment when I went to have this done.

The 07 part was installed in my 03, which at the time was out of warranty.

It was done under a little known "Goodwill Warranty".

The service manager bent over backwards to explain everything, even came out to let me know that my truck was being washed, and should be done in a few minutes.

 

I think he would of poured my coffee, if I would of left him.

Draenor Senior Enthusiast

Draenor

Posted
Posted
Damn, checking tie rod ends. Thats one tough state inspection.

Unlike where you and I live. I know in MS $5.00 will get you an inspection sticker on you lawn mower.

 

 

......That reminds me, I need to go get an inspection.......

 

 

 

:P

Havasubum Enthusiast

Havasubum

Posted
Posted

The same thing happened to my son's 2500HD 4x4 with 60K on it. It's a very pricey fix for what looks like marginal OE parts.

wawa Enthusiast

wawa

Posted
Posted

try putting in a COGNITO idler/pitman support kit when you have a "rocking" condition in your idler and pitman arms. put one in my 2500hd and any movement in the front end due to the idler and pitman arms was gone.

Zembonez Senior Enthusiast

Zembonez

Posted
Posted

Here the state inspection goes like this:

 

Guy gets in your car and drives around the block, does a brakes test on marked pavement, pulls in a bay and checks all the lights, wipers, horn, etc. Then he looks underhood for all emissions gear (which must be there) and then looks under the vehicle to check exhaust and do a visual inspection. Next he puts the gas cap on a pressure tester and hooks up to the diagnostic port under the dash to check for proper computer operation. Once all that is done, he'll run a computerized tailpipe emissions test, put on a sticker, and charge you $29.75 whether you pass or not. If you don't pass, I think there is a 10 day period where you can bring it back fixed and get your sticker.

 

Sounds a lot worse than it really is. My company Explorer with 120K on the clock passes in 10 minutes just last week.

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