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Gm Factory Tow Mirrors

alaska511

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alaska511 Senior Enthusiast

alaska511

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I got a set of GM factory tow mirrors from a member (Thanks VT_Z71 !!) and was curious of there are painted caps available for these. Has anybody seen them??

 

I wonder how fun these babies will be to install... :)

MS3DALE Senior Enthusiast

MS3DALE

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Nope,No mirror caps available for the camper mirrors. :)

alaska511 Senior Enthusiast

alaska511

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I wonder how fun these babies will be to install... :)

 

 

It's really not that bad. Popping the interior door trim loose is the toughest part.

 

 

 

Thanks Will!! Well, towing season is here, and yes i am having anxiety attacks about the damn Brake Controller. I am going to wire up WeatherPack conectors so I can remove it from the truck when not towing. Now I just have to come to terms with the velcro for mounting it...

MS3DALE Senior Enthusiast

MS3DALE

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Posted
I wonder how fun these babies will be to install... :)

 

 

It's really not that bad. Popping the interior door trim loose is the toughest part.

 

 

 

Thanks Will!! Well, towing season is here, and yes i am having anxiety attacks about the damn Brake Controller. I am going to wire up WeatherPack conectors so I can remove it from the truck when not towing. Now I just have to come to terms with the velcro for mounting it...

 

 

Ooh yes...I forgot about that situation,I still don't have to add a controller yet...But If I have to haul these tractors like I might have to I'll be in the same boat!

I cringe at the way it might look "hanging" from the dash :fume:

 

Post some pics when your done...You can be my "guinea pig" again!! :sigh:

MS3DALE Senior Enthusiast

MS3DALE

Posted
Posted
I wonder how fun these babies will be to install... :)

 

It's really not that bad. Popping the interior door trim loose is the toughest part.

 

 

Yeah....And if you break your door panels I can sell you new ones :fume::sigh:

VT_Z71 Enthusiast

VT_Z71

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Scott,

 

When I get home from dinner tonight, I'll try to give you a down n' dirty explanation of the mirror install. Once the door panels are off, its literally 5-minutes per side. When I removed my door panels I used the instructions from the GM service manual (which I included in the box), yet, there are still a few more tricks and tips I can give you to make the job as effortless as possible.

 

I'll get back to you.

 

-Clay

 

p.s. Since alot of people have painted the DL3/8 standard black mirror caps (which are the same material and texture as the tow mirror housing/base/etc., I'm pretty sure a competant shop will be able to color match to your truck no problem. I've even seen a 2006 Duramax somewhere on the net with these mirrors painted silver to match his truck)

alaska511 Senior Enthusiast

alaska511

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Thanks, Clay!! I appreciate everything! :):sigh:

 

You get 100% Positive Feedback...wait, this ain't Ebay :fume:

MS3DALE Senior Enthusiast

MS3DALE

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Posted
You get 100% Positive Feedback...wait, this ain't Ebay :)

 

WHAT...No Ebay buyer protection?!? :sigh:

jrrod2004 Senior Enthusiast

jrrod2004

Posted
Posted
I wonder how fun these babies will be to install... :)

 

It's really not that bad. Popping the interior door trim loose is the toughest part.

 

 

Yeah....And if you break your door panels I can sell you new ones :D:sigh:

 

 

Already broke mine :fume:

VT_Z71 Enthusiast

VT_Z71

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Ok....Taking Off GMT-900 "Luxury" Door Panels 101:

 

note: this applies to both front doors, and is while specific to the "luxury" panels I believe it is very similar for the "pure truck" doors as well

 

1: Put front windows all the way down. This is important later on, and you won't be able to do it with your switches removed!

 

2: Remove pop-up door lock thingamajiggys. To do this, take a flat bladed screw driver and "pop" the little tab in the center of the lock out. Once you pop the center tab, the whole pop-up lock assembly pops easily off the locking rod.

 

3: Use flat-blade tool to pry back and pop off triangular plastic cover directly behind the mirror mount location. I believe there are (3) metal pop clips holding this piece on.

 

4: Use flat-blade tool to pry up wood window trim bezil. I started from the back where the piece turns downward into the handle opening. I think there are (2) metal pop clips that hold this piece on. As you pop up the trim bezil and remove it upwards, the switch is attached. There are (3) scews, one at the front and two at the back, located at the bottom of the switch, that screw upwards into the trim plate. Remove these (3) screws and you can detach your switch from your trim plate.

 

5: Remove all wiring connections from the back of the switch. I think all but 1 or 2 spaces are occupied with the DL3 mirrors, and you will be using 1 less when switching to the DLM camper mirrors. However, dont worry about loosing track of what wires go where for reinstallation. Everything is color coded. The wiring connector color matches up to the markings (ie. black, gray, blue, etc.) on the back of the switch

 

6: Use flat-blade tool to pry up and remove plasic cover plate located directly behind chrome metal door handle. Once cover is removed, remove door mount screw located directly behind.

 

7: Behind the pull-door-closed fixed handle there is another cover panel. Use flat-bladed tool to pry up and remove this cover panel. Behind this cover panel is another door mount screw. Use screwdriver and remove.

 

8: Do yourself a favor and find a "door trim removal tool." I think these are specialty tools that body and upholstery shops use often, but I could not find one. I went to Advance Auto and the closest thing I could find was a "Door Upholstery Removal Tool". Its basically a forked tool, angled at the end with screwdriver type handle, that you use to pop up plastic trim connectors. This $6 tool is well worth the money as it aids greatly in removing your door panel, and if you do the old method of prying with a screwdriver, you run a great risk of breaking some of these plastic connectors.

 

If I remember, there are either (12) or (13) plastic trim connectors that hold the door panel on the metal door frame. The general locations of these connectors can be seen on the door-diagram sheet found within the GM service manual (included with your mirrors). Starting from the top, right behind the bare locking rod, use your pry-tool to start "popping" off the door panel. This process is somewhat hard to explain but I'll do my best. If you pull back on the door panel, you can feel the general areas where a hard connection is made with one of the plastic tabs. Use your tool to get as close to these plastic pieces as possible and pry back to "pop" the plastic connector. Some of these connectors you will be able to fully "engage" with your tool, but there are a few that are located just beyond reach to properly connect with the tool - just pry as you would regulary and these will pop. Like I said, start from the back-upper corner near the door lock and pry away. Work your way around the door panel to the bottom, and then back up again at the front. The connectors at the bottom seemed to be the hardest just because you have to get on your knees and peer under the panel to figure out where you need to be prying. BE CAREFUL DURING THIS PRYING PROCESS, take your time because you don't want to break one of these easily-damaged plastic connectors. Once you have all of the 12 or 13 push connectors popped out, the door panel should now be able to be moved upwards.

 

9: Once all 12 or 13 push connectors are popped out, lift upwards on the door panel. You might have to work it a little bit as everything on mine seemed somewhat "fused" together since it hadnt been moved since being built. Also, even though you think you have removed all of the 12 or 13 connectors, when I was working mine, as I was doing the front ones, the previously popped ones in the rear tended to go "back into their hole." You can "feel" if there is any mechanical resistance as you pull upwards. Eventually, it will pull upwards with no problems.

 

10: Ok, your door panel is still connected at one last location. The chrome door handle on the panel is connected to the door-release cable within the metal door. Basically, the door release cable has a configuration like this --------0 in which a little "ball" at the end of the cable fits within an indention on the door handle. Use a flat bladed screwdriver or tool to work this cable out of the door handle. Again, this is somewhat hard to put into words, yet, its a rather easy task once you look at it for a second or two. Once the cable is removed from the door handle, your panel is completely free.

 

11: Set your removed panel off to the side in a safe location. Get yourself a beer, you're almost there!

 

12: Up the bare door, directly behind where the mirror mount is, you'll find foam sound-deadening within the triangular metal space. Remove this and set aside for later use. Behind this sound deadening are (3) simple bolts. Removing these bolts will drop your mirror. However, FIRST BEFORE REMOVING THE MIRROR, follow the wiring bundles (1) on DLM, (2) on DL3 down from the mirror. These bundles are held to your door with a few plastic "christmas-tree" connectors that are taped along them. Remove these carefully with a flat-bladed tool, as these are easy to break as well. In the mirrors I sent you, I believe these are all in good shape. This is good, as these connectors keep the wires "seated" within your door panel and avoids any unnecessary rattling that would occur if they were hanging freely. Once the mirror wiring bundles are no longer connected to the door, stick one hand out the window and hold on to your mirror. With the other hand, remove the (3) bolts. REMEMBER, hold on to the mirror with your hand out the open window, or else, when you remove the last bolt your mirror will fall to the ground and possibly break. Once the mirror is unbolted, the wiring just pulls through the little hole.

 

Voila! Your old mirrors are off. Now time to install the new ones.

 

Reinstallation is basically the EXACT opposite of what I just explained. I'm not going into full detail, but I'll try to give a few tips I found when doing the reinstall.

 

TIPS for REINSTALLATION:

 

- After you have bolted the new mirrors back on using the same (3) mounting bolts, with wiring ran the same route as the old (through the hole and down into your door), use the "christmas-tree" connectors to hold the wiring to the door at the pre-drilled holes. In my case, the "christmas trees" were broken, so I had to use plastic zip-ties to secure the wiring to the metal door frame. Stuff the foam sound-deadening material back into the triangular metal hole once everything is done here.

 

- Use screwdriver, or even you hand will work, to insert metal ball on end of door release cable back into indention of chrome door handle on trim panel.

 

- Before resinstalling the panels, find the (2) holes in the metal door frame where the (2) actual mounting screws were located (one behind the chrome handle and one behind the pull-door-shut handle). At these two holes on the metal frame are (2) metal clips (sorry I cant think of their proper name) that properly guide/hold the mouting screw to the drilled hole within the frame. These clips like to "fall down" away from their proper location. I would stick them back in their proper location but as soon as I would try to reinstall the interior panel, they would fall down again. So, to combat this. Take some electrical or duct tape and "secure" these clips at their necessary location so that they will stay when you reinstall your panel. You want them in the right place once the panel is reinstalled so your (2) mounting screws will go back in properly.

 

- When reinstalling the door panels, things can get somewhat confusing. All I can say is, start from the top. Your door panel has a top "lip" that wraps up and over the window sill. Where the door panel "wants" to naturally sit is NOT correct, as it is too far from the window. You kinda have to work the top "lip" to its setting location which is almost right on top of the window "hole". Make sure your door lock rod is poking through its respective hole in the door panel as it likes to work its way out.

 

AT THE SAME TIME AS YOU ARE FIDDLING WITH THIS ABOVE, YOU HAVE TO COORDINATE THIS BELOW

 

- There are (2) "hooks" at the bottom center of the door panel that fit into (2) holes in the metal door frame. You have to coordinate the fitment of the top "lip" with the (2) hooks sitting properly in their respective holes all at the same time. I had to fiddle with mine for a few minutes before I got it to work correctly. At first, I would get the top lip, but not the bottom hooks.....then the bottom hooks and not the top lip. Eventually, I got the hang of "manuevering" my door panel and had both the lip and hooks back together properly. Again, make sure your door lock rod is back sticking out of its hole.

 

- Once the top "lip" and bottom hooks are in their correct configuration, you can start popping back in the 13 plastic connectors. While you push down on the top "lip" of the panel, start at the same location you did when you started prying apart. Push the interior panel with your hand and the plastic connectors will almost naturally "pop" back into their holes. Be sure to push downward on the top lip of the panel as you pop the panel connectors back in, because it aligns the connectors properly with their holes.

 

- After this is all said and done, put everything back like you took it off. Wiring, switch, bezil, (2) mounting screws, (2) screw cover panels, triangular mirror trim piece, and lastly the door lock pop-up thingamajiggy.

 

 

Alright, I think I've pretty much explained everything that needs explaining. In conjunction with the door panel diagrams from the GM service manual, even a Caveman could do this job. Unless you are a woman (haha), anybody with even the least amount of mechanical ability can figure this one out.

 

Let me know if you run into any trouble and I'll help you out to the best of my abilities.

 

At least you are not going from the DLMs to the DL3s like I did......that job requries another 4-pages of written explanation due to the heavy amount of programming involved (there is another post of mine floating around regarding this fiasco!)

 

Good luck!

 

Clay

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