Jump to content

Shock Installation Question


Recommended Posts

Posted

Just finished installing the front Bilsteins on my truck. Noticed the factory shocks had a metal sleeve on top side that was through the rubber pieces and over the threaded shaft. Looked to be a spacer between the shock shaft and frame mounting bracket. Was this piece supposed to be put back on/in with the new shocks? I assumed it wasn't or there would have been one in the new box but wanted to ask here and be sure.

 

Thanks for any info,

Rob

Posted

yeah i would put it back in, or the upper threaded shaft will move around in the hole and possibly rub, make noise or wear the bushings out faster.

Posted
yeah i would put it back in, or the upper threaded shaft will move around in the hole and possibly rub, make noise or wear the bushings out faster.

 

+1

Posted

Unless the stock bushing is in real good shape I would use the rubber bushings and washers that came with the bilsteins.

 

Now Bilstein has been making shocks for a looooong time. They know how to design bushings that work. If they are installed properly, the shaft will not move around in the hole. Will the Bilstein bushings do their job and hold the shaft in place, yes The Bilstein bushings are urethane and much tougher than the stock softer rubber bushings. I can see where the stock bushings would need help.. Can a more complicated bushing hold the shaft better, no. Some times the KISS method is better(keep it simple stupid) I have ran Bilsteins on the last 4 trucks I have owned with out any problems.

 

The stock bushings will actually work on the Bilsteins though if it makes you feel more secure. :sigh:

 

Don

Posted
Just finished installing the front Bilsteins on my truck. Noticed the factory shocks had a metal sleeve on top side that was through the rubber pieces and over the threaded shaft. Looked to be a spacer between the shock shaft and frame mounting bracket. Was this piece supposed to be put back on/in with the new shocks? I assumed it wasn't or there would have been one in the new box but wanted to ask here and be sure.

 

Thanks for any info,

Rob

I just put new SkyJacker shocks on mine and same thing.....they did not come with the sleeve......the new bushing however were shaped(had a slight tapper on one side) so they fit perfectly in the stock mounting location and threaded tops of the shocks cant move from side to side.

Posted

I saw those sleeves , and looked at them with a face also. I decided not to use them. I just figured, like somebody already wrote, that Bilstien has been making them for a while and that these where the shocks for my truck. If warranted, Bilstien would have put them in the box. One thing I did do though is put never- seize on all the threads, thinking if I ever had to take them off it would help. Take care and good luck with your new shocks.

Posted

I recently replaced the front OEM shocks with Bilsteins. The Bilsteins insulator kit is basic and not up to the OEM's quality.

 

I am going to replace with a new Insulator set from GM or I'll use a aftermarket kit from DORMAN like this one Dorman31020insulator.jpgDoorman

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • $5.19 for regular...
    • My office is slowly filling with Blazer parts. Getting ready to do the big bang of repairs. Intake (second time), water pump, radiator, hoses, and I'm going to re-seal the timing cover where someone went hog wild with silicone. Might as well, because I don't think that's done right.   There's a local tow yard that I didn't realize also has quite the inventory of junk vehicles. This is an old school junkyard. No waivers. Cash only, you were never here if anyone asks. Don't piss off the owner, or you'll end up in the back of one of those cars, headed for the shredder. And if you see something, don't snitch. Cars stacked double high, wasps nests, trip hazards and junk everywhere. I found a few little odds/ends for my Blazer. The $20 I spent was worth the experience alone. But I was never there. What yard?   I officially love/hate this truck. It's so out of my wheelhouse, roughest vehicle I've ever owned. Every. single. repair. -is so hard-fought, everything that can go wrong, goes wrong. Currently in a hate phase, and kind of wish I was closer to sending it down the road with a lucky new owner, to be honest. Preparing for the day when I tear into this thing...lots of pre-funk with Ibuprofen.   Rock Auto sent me a bad reman rear wiper motor. It was a bear to install. The tailgate in these things has about eleventy-billion fastners and pieces and things that need to be uninstalled/moved just to access the shoddy rear wiper motor. The casing on mine was cracked clean through, btw. Nice, GM, nice. SO I got this new motor installed, hit the switch, I see it wig-wag (without the arm installed) and think I'm golden. Reassemble everything. With the wiper arm installed I gave it one final test. Time to clean up and take the other half out to dinner, collect a paycheck, right?   Nope. I hear the plastic worm gear stripping as the arm hung up. Just like my broken motor. Weak/old and shredding itself internally. I can assist the arm and the range of motion is normal, and it parks correctly. It just doesn't have the poop to actually sweep the arm with a blade on it. Oh, hell. Turned the key off and shut the shop door behind me. I get to do that over again, too.
    • A complete delete is the most thorough mechanical solution, but it is also major engine work. On a quiet truck that is still under extended warranty, opening the engine purely as prevention is difficult to justify. A plug-in disabler stops commanded cylinder deactivation, but it does not remove or repair the collapsible lifters, so it should not be treated as failure insurance. I would keep the oil full, document the maintenance, and have any persistent tick, misfire, or loss of power diagnosed promptly. If the engine eventually has to come apart, that is the logical time to compare an OEM-style repair with a complete delete. The right choice depends on the truck’s symptoms, warranty status, expected ownership period, and whether the engine already needs to be opened. We explain that decision in more detail here—full disclosure, this is our own guide: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/do-you-actually-need-an-afm-disabler   One exception: some 2021 L82/L84 trucks have RPO YK9, meaning cylinder deactivation was already disabled in the factory ECM; on those trucks a plug-in disabler is redundant, although the AFM/DFM hardware remains inside the engine.
    • Brought my 2015 Colorado into the dealership to check my touch screen issues, had that ghost touch thing happening. They said I needed a new touch screen and they could either order me one for $500. The lady at the service deck was nice enough to tell me I could order a touch screen online for less, she did stipulate that the touch screen had to be factory OEM, you can't pair an aftermarket screen to my radio seeing it was 2015, it had to be a GM factory OEM only. I found a few on Amazon and Ebay by the numbers on the back of the old screen, DJ080PA-01A GM# 22740886, Some said "OEM" in the description and others just said "Replacement". Would a replacement be the same as a OEM as long as it had the same numbers on the back of the screen? In some of the descriptions they also show different brand names but same numbers, is that an issue?  
    • I have both but typically use the 4 legged walker (wheels on front, ski's on back).   The four wheeler is starting to be used on "longer" outdoor walks.  The 4 legged walker is particularly helpful in practicing good walking posture.  Both of my knees are at different stages of recovery and I'm trying to not develop poor habits.  I can actually manage with a cane but it's very difficult not to favor one leg over the other.  My PT recommends I continue with my 4 legged walker for a while.  Yesterday was four weeks since my last knee replacement and I'm excited about my progress to date.  It has been a hell of a rough journey so far but it is exciting to witness  systematic and continuous improvement.  I went for years watching the decline of my "mobility".  It seems that everyday now I am alerting my wife to something I can do now that I couldn't a day or two ago!  I encourage anyone facing the prospect of knee replacement to share any concerns with others who have had the surgery.  It isn't an instant fix but rather is a considerable amount of short term pain for long term gain.  Recovery time and pain levels vary for individuals post surgery but the end results are typically very positive and I've never encountered anyone regretting having had the surgery. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...