Jump to content

5-Speed manual problems on new 2500HD

Kansas Kid

Recommended Posts

Pantera Enthusiast

Pantera

Posted
Posted

Guys!  Need help before I take this beast in and let the Monkey-mechanics slober all over this new puppy and scratch up my new toy!  2005 2500HD  6.0, with 5-speed manual trans...

 

I have, while in gear and out of gear, a constant vibration sound and feeling around 35-MPH and higher.  As soon as I put this baby in fifth gear the sound starts and comes and goes every few seconds.  Sounds like a piece of metal or aluminum vibrating against or within the tranny.  I am very concerned and wonder if any one else has this problem and what you guys think I should do.  It remains constant even when I take it out of gear and coast and it finally stops around 35-MPH.  I can disengage the clutch and coast and it still makes the sound whether it's in fifth or in nuetral.

 

Please help!

 

Pantera

 

P.S.  Wonder if it could be the front end transfer case although I do not frive at all in 4X4 yet.

Guest Friz

Guest Friz

Posted
Posted

2005?!?!?

I'll assume you meant 2002.

It sounds like a speed problem, not a gear problem since you can take it out of gear or push the clutch in and it continues.

Look down the driveshaft for anything obvious, wiggle the u-joints, have the tires balanced, look for loose heat shields around the exhaust.

That's all I can think of right now.

Pantera Enthusiast

Pantera

Posted
Posted

I will check it out.  Sounds logical to me regarding what you are saying.  The vibration occurs whether in gear of out.  Does this mean it is not a tranny problem?  The problem persists at just over 35 MPH.  She is a 2002 regular cab 4X4 with a 1-piece driveshaft.

 

Pantera

Kansas Kid Senior Enthusiast

Kansas Kid

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'd be pretty sure that it isn't a tranny problem since it occurs when out of gear as well.  If it only occured while the tranny was in gear I'd be worried.  I'd just check out the obvious things that Friz mentioned, and then head off and see what the dealer can do.

Shaners Senior Enthusiast

Shaners

Posted
Posted

One last thought, it could be the harmonics are off in the drive shaft itself, and it is "singing" once it reaches a certain RPM.  Meaning it could be slightly bent or out of balance.  Look at it and see if you can see a place where a balancing  weight might have fallen off of it...

Pantera Enthusiast

Pantera

Posted
Posted

Shaner,

 

Where do they usually put the balance weights?

 

Sounds like, and feels like, it's coming up between the front of the tranny and just behind the stick shifter.  Heard it again this morning at about 25 MPH while coasting.

 

dang, this sux!

Shaners Senior Enthusiast

Shaners

Posted
Posted

Pantera,

 

Usually  a drive shaft weight is just tack welded on the shaft.  Generally They aren't real big and cover less than a couple of square inches.

 

I had one come off the shaft on my old G20 conversion van once.  It caused a very annoying vibration.  I could tell when I looked at the shaft that there used to be a weight in that location...

 

Since the  noise is there only when the truck is moving at 25 mph and up it has to be from something that rotates faster as the truck speed increases, because it makes no difference if the truck is in gear or in nuetral with the clutch engaged or disengaged.  I would think it would be from the output shaft of the tranny on back.  That would mean to me, transfer case, frt/rr drive shafts, universals, frt/rr differentials.

 

On a straight piece of road put the truck in 4wd high and see if the problem gets worse.  If so, then I would think it is in the transfer case somewhere.

 

This is hard to trouble shoot without hearing or feeling your problem.  Sorry

Pantera Enthusiast

Pantera

Posted
Posted

OK Guys!  Here's the scoop!  What the dealer said today!!!!!!!!

 

Went in today with my 2002  2500HD 4X4 regular cab , 6.0 Vortec 5-speed manual trans with 700 miles on her for the problem with the vibration noise discussed earlier.

 

Dealer sates this response which is backed up by GM!!!!!!!!

 

"Gear rattle is due to clearance in transmission and transfer case- This is normal as per technical assistance case 5145264"

 

Holy ####!  What does this mean?  Man am I pissed.  Gears are not suppose to vibrate like this.  I put my hand on the transfer case shifter and feel nothing at all but the regular transmission shift lever gives me the vibration that I have spoken about earlier in this postin(s).

 

What tha hell should I do guys?

 

Pantera

Kansas Kid Senior Enthusiast

Kansas Kid

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well its nice to see the dealer fed you a nice line of crap.  I'm sorry, but a brand new pickup should not be doing this kind of stuff.  I don't know what all you can do, other then keep bugging them about it.  Might try a different dealership as well.

 

Is the only way you can feel the vibration when driving through the shift lever, of does the whole truck shake?

Pantera Enthusiast

Pantera

Posted
Posted

She makes a inconsistand vibration noise that can also be felt through the stick shifter.  Quite well actually.  Sounds like a gear meshing together losely or a vibration from a bracket or something.

 

Happens both in and out of gear, coasting in nuetral with the clutch depressed or left out.  Strange huh.  Seems to happen most when switching into 5th gear does it whether I am accelerating or decelerating or just coasting in nuetral.  Driving me crazy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

What do you think?

 

Pantera

Shaners Senior Enthusiast

Shaners

Posted
Posted

I'd try another dealer like KansasKid says, and then I'd ask them to get the factory rep involved.  This doesn't sound "normal" to me...

Guest Friz

Guest Friz

Posted
Posted

I don't give a good hoot WHAT that dealer, service tech, or rep says, that is not normal.

Don't take any crap off of them.

Ask the dealer if you can pick a comparably equipped truck off his lot and take it for a spin. See if it has the same problem. If it does, get another one and try it.

I bet he'd would have a hard time selling it.

Pantera Enthusiast

Pantera

Posted
Posted

Fritz and Shaners!

 

I agree wholeheartedly!  Those idiots at the dealershit!!!!! are gonna get it Monday morning!!!

 

I took my RIG to AAMCO Tansmissions this morning and the guy told me flat out!  What tha.....They could'nt tell you that you have a Thow-Out bearing problem while driving this thing, and only 800 miles on her?

 

Go back and tell them to fix it and if they don't come to us and we'll do it for you and then take them to court to pay for your costs plus..........

 

NOW, that might be what I am about to do!  Kick some CHEVY butt so they don't become like FORD and start really slippin' and become second or third in quality within the big "3"!

 

What do you guys think?

 

I wanna hear it from you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Pantera

Guest Friz

Guest Friz

Posted
Posted

Tell your dealership that you got a second opinion. Give them the Aamco documentation and get them to fix your truck. Don't "backdoor" them.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • smooth68
      Alternate wiring for Kicker sub with Bose system. (DO THIS)

      By smooth68 · Posted

      I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...