Jump to content

New Gears!


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi Guys!!!

 

I want to know what gears to install on my truck, right now i have the O.E 3.73 and im running on Toyo MT 35x12.50R17

and maybe i would go to BFG MT KM2 37x12.5R17

 

Will i loose MPG with the change?

 

any suggestions? brand?

 

Thanks

Posted

Swapping out gears, if anything, will give you better gas mileage. It takes more work to turn the larger tires, and a lower gear ratio will increase you mechanical advantage, netting you better fuel economy (theoretically). They will also reduce wear on your transmission, which is the main reason to re-gear.

 

With 35s, a 4.56 ratio will be similar to what the 3.73s were with stock tires. If you plan on going larger in the future or want a lot of power off the line, I'd reccomend 4.88s, but keep in mind anything over a 35" tire is in the 'unsafe' range.

 

:)

Posted

Correcto....35's and staying 35's go with a 4.56. 35's then to 37's eventually, or straight to 37's go with 4.88's. Also if you have the G80, well you do....get that out of there too. I'd swap in a TrueTrac!

Posted

I have 3.73's in my truck...if you want to run 35's good, you need 4:10, if you are going to go to 37's...go with a 4:56, anything bigger than that.....its gonna run like shit, and drive like shit!!!!! Thats what my suspension guy told me and he has been doing this for a long time. if you want to go with 4:88...then you need 40's. Thats the only way that it will not drive like shit.

Posted

He is just saying larger tires on a 1500 is a lot harder on the truck. They weigh A LOT more and can cause components to wear out a lot faster.

Posted
Correcto....35's and staying 35's go with a 4.56. 35's then to 37's eventually, or straight to 37's go with 4.88's. Also if you have the G80, well you do....get that out of there too. I'd swap in a TrueTrac!

 

 

4.56's are what to tall for 35's...

if i were to run that i would have to have a 37's or 38's

Posted
I have 3.73's in my truck...if you want to run 35's good, you need 4:10, if you are going to go to 37's...go with a 4:56, anything bigger than that.....its gonna run like shit, and drive like shit!!!!! Thats what my suspension guy told me and he has been doing this for a long time. if you want to go with 4:88...then you need 40's. Thats the only way that it will not drive like shit.

 

Everyone I talk to says 4.56's with 35's and 4.88's with 37's are ideal. I would go with 5.13's with 40's, but maybe thats just me.

Posted
Correcto....35's and staying 35's go with a 4.56. 35's then to 37's eventually, or straight to 37's go with 4.88's. Also if you have the G80, well you do....get that out of there too. I'd swap in a TrueTrac!

 

 

4.56's are what to tall for 35's...

if i were to run that i would have to have a 37's or 38's

 

 

I don't think they are at all. I have seen TONS of guys run that combo and their RPM's are fine all around.

Posted
Correcto....35's and staying 35's go with a 4.56. 35's then to 37's eventually, or straight to 37's go with 4.88's. Also if you have the G80, well you do....get that out of there too. I'd swap in a TrueTrac!

 

 

4.56's are what to tall for 35's...

if i were to run that i would have to have a 37's or 38's

 

 

I don't think they are at all. I have seen TONS of guys run that combo and their RPM's are fine all around.

 

 

 

Same here. My buddy ran 4.88s and 35s for about 3 years and loved it (it is a similar final drive ratio to stock tires with 4.10s).

 

3.73s and stock tires is a very similar final drive ratio to:

4.10s with 33s

4.56s with 35s.

4.88s with 37s.

Posted

Here's a gear/tire size calculator:

http://www.4lo.com/calc/gearratio.htm#ratios

 

And I did a few:

 

Stock (245/75R16)

post-35072-1222808497_thumb.jpg

 

35s and 4.10s

post-35072-1222808490_thumb.jpg

 

35s and 4.56s

post-35072-1222808483_thumb.jpg

 

EDIT: With the extra weight of the 35s, a slightly lower gear will help get the big tires moving easier, and will put less strain on the transmission.

 

EDIT2: This is where you're at right now, with 35s and 3.73s, so the 4.10s aren't that big of a difference, and might not be very noticeable on takeoff.

post-35072-1222808822_thumb.jpg

post-35072-1222808483_thumb.jpg

post-35072-1222808490_thumb.jpg

post-35072-1222808497_thumb.jpg

post-35072-1222808822_thumb.jpg

post-35072-1222808483_thumb.jpg

post-35072-1222808490_thumb.jpg

post-35072-1222808497_thumb.jpg

post-35072-1222808822_thumb.jpg

post-35072-1222808483_thumb.jpg

post-35072-1222808490_thumb.jpg

post-35072-1222808497_thumb.jpg

post-35072-1222808822_thumb.jpg

Posted

Hi guys!!! Thanks for all your post

 

Before i lift the truck i was running Toyo MT 295/70/R17 (33 x 11.50) and the truck felt great at take off and on

highway but the Toyo is a very hard tire, i mean it perfom awesome on the road and off road (traction, grip, etc) but

very hard on the suspension this tire weights 73lbs and now that im running on Toyo 35x12.50R17 the truck feel slow on take off

but not to slow on highway but a lot more hard on the suspension this tire weights 83lbs so if i go straight to BFG 37x12.50R17 this

tire weights only 72lbs compared to the 93lbs of the Toyo 37 so its lighter than the Toyos 33 and it's also a softer tire and better for the steering also.

 

On the other hand i seen that a lot of the pre-runner trucks use 4.56 gears with 37's.

 

So i guess that a 4.10 on a 35 would work fine and 4.56 for 37

 

Does anyone recommend a specific brand? i was thinking on Precision Gear

  • 2 weeks later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.6k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    343,007
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Brendan C
    Newest Member
    Brendan C
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,105 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks for posting, I'm sure it will help someone
    • New to diesel trucks. I happened to find my oil cooler leaking oil externally with only 4,000 miles on the truck. I didn’t realize this was an issue until I started researching it. Dealer is going to replace it under warranty but I’m wondering if there’s anything GM is working on to fix this issue. I’ve heard the oil filter used is the same as they use on their V6 motors and that’s what is causing the problems. Should I switch to a bigger filter or keep using the OEM recommended? 
    • So, GMCustomerService:  Judging by the Update History pictured above, is this truck missing any updates that it actually needs. If it's just for the infotainment system, the radio is working fine and no trouble with SeriusXM. and Android Auto is working fine wirelessly with my phone. Some months ago, an update notice was sent to my truck. I approved the update and it finished saying that the update was successful, but it seems that whatever that update was, it didn't actually get installed - at least not if I'm to go by the Update History shown above.   So, again, are there any updates that this truck really should have? I've checked with my dealer but they're reluctant or commit to anything and if I want them to check, they require a $200.00 fee just to check it out and then I'd have to pay for the actual update(s).    Ignorance is bliss, and if none of the updates goes to fixing any mechanical discrepancies, I'll just leave things as is.  
    • Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...