Jump to content

Heated/cooled Seat Conversion

rich22
 Share

Recommended Posts

rich22 Enthusiast

rich22

Posted
Posted

Has anybody attempted to install the heated and cooled seats out of a NBS Escalade into

a NBS truck? I have a 2008 Sierra Crew Cab SLT w heated seats. The Escalades have the

heating/cooling of the seats controlled via an in dash unit, which made me think it was not going to be possible. However, the 2009 Denali/Tahoe/Yukon/Suburbans have the heat/cooled seats controlled on the door panel, just like how my 2008 Sierra has the heated seat controls on the door panel. They just added an extra button.

I have access to a brand new set of Escalade seats... can it be made to work?

 

Thanks,

Richard

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

rich22
rich22

It is a stand alone system, built into the seats. The peltier effect is used, with a couple of blower motors. The electronics that operate the system come attached to the bottom of the seats as well.

rich22
rich22

So it took me over a month to make it happen, but I now have a 2008 Sierra 2500HD with heated and cooled seats!! Seats were sourced from a 2009 Tahoe. Had to install the 2009 heat/cool seat switches i

rich22
rich22

I was in the same predicament, was considering trading in my truck to get the heated/cooled seats, but unfortunately GM does not put them into any truck that can also have the Duramax engine. (As far

Posted Images

DofD Senior Enthusiast

DofD

Posted
Posted

No ideal if it can be made to work. But it doesn't sound like an easy thing. It kind of depends on how the cooling is implemented. That is if it is stand alone in the seat or requires ducting from the main HVAC system.

rich22 Enthusiast

rich22

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It is a stand alone system, built into the seats. The peltier effect is used, with a couple of blower motors. The electronics that operate the system come attached to the bottom of the seats as well.

 

 

No ideal if it can be made to work. But it doesn't sound like an easy thing. It kind of depends on how the cooling is implemented. That is if it is stand alone in the seat or requires ducting from the main HVAC system.
  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
rich22 Enthusiast

rich22

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So it took me over a month to make it happen, but I now have a 2008 Sierra 2500HD with heated and cooled seats!! Seats were sourced from a 2009 Tahoe. Had to install the 2009 heat/cool seat switches into the doors, do some wiring on the seats, and some programming changes. If anyone is interested in this conversion, I'd be glad to write up a howto document.

 

Also, I now have a pair of almost new 2008 sierra charcoal leather seats AN3 heated and full power with lumbar if anyone is interested.

 

Thanks,

Richard

 

It is a stand alone system, built into the seats. The peltier effect is used, with a couple of blower motors. The electronics that operate the system come attached to the bottom of the seats as well.

 

 

No ideal if it can be made to work. But it doesn't sound like an easy thing. It kind of depends on how the cooling is implemented. That is if it is stand alone in the seat or requires ducting from the main HVAC system.

 

  • Like 1
GoldBourbon Enthusiast

GoldBourbon

Posted
Posted

"Also, I now have a pair of almost new 2008 sierra charcoal leather seats AN3 heated and full power with lumbar if anyone is interested."

 

Thanks,

Richard

 

does anyone know if my 08 Sierra with manual seats is already wired for the power seats?...oh crap, I just realized yours are charcoal!...I wonder how hard it would be to die the charcoal color to ebony?....how much do you want for the seats?

 

thanks

Louie

Trav_13 Senior Enthusiast

Trav_13

Posted
Posted
"Also, I now have a pair of almost new 2008 sierra charcoal leather seats AN3 heated and full power with lumbar if anyone is interested."

 

Thanks,

Richard

 

does anyone know if my 08 Sierra with manual seats is already wired for the power seats?...oh crap, I just realized yours are charcoal!...I wonder how hard it would be to die the charcoal color to ebony?....how much do you want for the seats?

 

thanks

Louie

 

Ebony/Charcoal should be the same thing...

 

Yes I would definetly be interested in a write up!

rich22 Enthusiast

rich22

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm pretty sure that charcoal and ebony are the color.

If your truck has the AN3 option code, it should be prewired for these seats.

The memory seat module (under the drivers seat) controls all the power/lumbar/heat/memory functions. Making all the functions work requires that you have power windows, the memory/heat seat switch(drivers side) and heated seat switch (passenger side) installed into your door panels, and possibly some programming at the dealership.

 

If you dont care about making the memory seat recall or heated seat portion work, wiring for the just the power adjustable seat/lumbar is quite simple, just a few hot wires and grounds. Everything for the power movement/lumbar is self contained in the seats.

 

$900 for both front seats, plus freight. They are basically brand new seats, complete with the memory seat module and all wiring on both sides. I have a purpose-built shipping pallet for them.

 

I will do a write up on the heated/cooled seat (KB6) install this week and get it posted as soon as possible. I appreciate all the interest.

 

Richard

stick it into the Tech Wiki
Trav_13 Senior Enthusiast

Trav_13

Posted
Posted
I'm pretty sure that charcoal and ebony are the color.

If your truck has the AN3 option code, it should be prewired for these seats.

The memory seat module (under the drivers seat) controls all the power/lumbar/heat/memory functions. Making all the functions work requires that you have power windows, the memory/heat seat switch(drivers side) and heated seat switch (passenger side) installed into your door panels, and possibly some programming at the dealership.

 

If you dont care about making the memory seat recall or heated seat portion work, wiring for the just the power adjustable seat/lumbar is quite simple, just a few hot wires and grounds. Everything for the power movement/lumbar is self contained in the seats.

 

$900 for both front seats, plus freight. They are basically brand new seats, complete with the memory seat module and all wiring on both sides. I have a purpose-built shipping pallet for them.

 

I will do a write up on the heated/cooled seat (KB6) install this week and get it posted as soon as possible. I appreciate all the interest.

 

Richard

stick it into the Tech Wiki

 

 

Richard,

 

Am looking forward to hearing about how you did this! I was recently considering an upgrade of trucks in order to get the cooled seats, and a few other various things, but I enjoy projects like this...so if I can get it to work also that would be great....if you don't mind me asking where did you get your 09 Model Seats?

rich22 Enthusiast

rich22

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I was in the same predicament, was considering trading in my truck to get the heated/cooled seats, but unfortunately GM does not put them into any truck that can also have the Duramax engine. (As far as I know, you can get them in 2007-2009 Escalade, Escalade EXT, Escalade Truck; 2009 Tahoe LTZ, Yukon Denali, or Sierra Denali. But the Sierra Denali is only a half ton truck and thus has no diesel option.)

 

I'm in the automotive business, and have a relationship with the company who supplies the seats/electronics for GM. If other people decide they want to do the conversion, I will be glad to assist you in getting the seats you want in the color you want. If you want to match your current seat colors in a 2007-2008 NBS truck, you will need the 2009 NBS Truck/Tahoe/Yukon seats... the Cadillac seats use different colors and grades of leather, though functionally they are the same.

 

Thanks,

Richard

 

I'm pretty sure that charcoal and ebony are the color.

If your truck has the AN3 option code, it should be prewired for these seats.

The memory seat module (under the drivers seat) controls all the power/lumbar/heat/memory functions. Making all the functions work requires that you have power windows, the memory/heat seat switch(drivers side) and heated seat switch (passenger side) installed into your door panels, and possibly some programming at the dealership.

 

If you dont care about making the memory seat recall or heated seat portion work, wiring for the just the power adjustable seat/lumbar is quite simple, just a few hot wires and grounds. Everything for the power movement/lumbar is self contained in the seats.

 

$900 for both front seats, plus freight. They are basically brand new seats, complete with the memory seat module and all wiring on both sides. I have a purpose-built shipping pallet for them.

 

I will do a write up on the heated/cooled seat (KB6) install this week and get it posted as soon as possible. I appreciate all the interest.

 

Richard

stick it into the Tech Wiki

 

 

Richard,

 

Am looking forward to hearing about how you did this! I was recently considering an upgrade of trucks in order to get the cooled seats, and a few other various things, but I enjoy projects like this...so if I can get it to work also that would be great....if you don't mind me asking where did you get your 09 Model Seats?

 

  • Like 1
Trav_13 Senior Enthusiast

Trav_13

Posted
Posted

sounds great.....yeah I'd certainly be interested in doing this swap. I infact buy and sell alot of GM Truck Seats over the internet and usually have pretty good access to them, but I think I would need some assistance in getting some 09 Tahoe/Yukon Seats.....I would really like to have the 09 Denali/Escalade type leather, but they don't make that vehicle in an Extended Cab which would leave me with Non-Matching Seats....my truck is Ebony on the Inside and already has the AN3 Option....

 

I guess aside from doing some wiring in the seats, did you have to do any in the doors or floor harness, etc?

 

Also were you able to take it to a dealer to have the KB6 option simply flashed, or were you able to get the flash done by being in the auto business. My Local Dealer here doesn't seem to have the greatest luck in "adding features" when I know just as well as other members on the board that you can reconfigure the VCI and have the RPO codes flashed in after the fact....so let me know I would certainly be interested.

GoldBourbon Enthusiast

GoldBourbon

Posted
Posted
I'm pretty sure that charcoal and ebony are the color.

If your truck has the AN3 option code, it should be prewired for these seats.

The memory seat module (under the drivers seat) controls all the power/lumbar/heat/memory functions. Making all the functions work requires that you have power windows, the memory/heat seat switch(drivers side) and heated seat switch (passenger side) installed into your door panels, and possibly some programming at the dealership.

 

If you dont care about making the memory seat recall or heated seat portion work, wiring for the just the power adjustable seat/lumbar is quite simple, just a few hot wires and grounds. Everything for the power movement/lumbar is self contained in the seats.

 

$900 for both front seats, plus freight. They are basically brand new seats, complete with the memory seat module and all wiring on both sides. I have a purpose-built shipping pallet for them.

 

I will do a write up on the heated/cooled seat (KB6) install this week and get it posted as soon as possible. I appreciate all the interest.

 

Richard

stick it into the Tech Wiki

 

 

thanks Richard....I'll check my codes, as for freight, what part of the country are you in?

 

Louie

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • TrueBlue
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      I gotta say, I'm enjoying your narration. The troubles you've been having are amusing as you describe them. It's good to see that you're finally getting some satisfaction out the old beast though.
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • Grumpy Bear
      The Peckish Synapse

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Vu1can
      Bridgestone vs Goodyear tires?

      By Vu1can · Posted

      Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • davester
      Broke Down on the Mountain

      By davester · Posted

      maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...