Jump to content

2003 Denali Touchscreen Navigation Upgrade


tjferris

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all,

I have a 2003 denali, it has the Y91 lux bose system in it. I have the factory NON navigation radio currently. I Just purchased a 2005 touchscreen radio from a wrecked Escalade, P/N 10377531. I need to know what the P/N of the gps antenna that will work with this radio is. I was on gmpartsdirect.com and there seem to be quite a few different numbers from the one they offer to other forums I have seen online. The prices range from 20 bucks to 70 bucks depending on what part number I search for. Can any one tell me for sure what antenna I need to use with this radio and my 03 Denali. Thanks!! Also what are the major dif between this radio head unit and the 15800001 P/N unit? I know the 15800001 is the newest revision but is there anything earthshattering different between the two?? Can the dealer upgrade the firmware on this radio to match the 15800001 unit or were there some hardware upgrades on that unit as well? I don't even know if you can update the firmware on these radios thats why i'm asking!! Also what lockpick device do I need so ALL the navigation functions are available while the vehicle is in motion?? (so my passengers can input new destinations and search for POI's ) Thanks for any help you can give me!!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • How did all that extra get added? AI bot! 
    • This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...