Jump to content

98 Exhaust Question?


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi, I have a 1998 Gmc Sierra, 5.0L, stock exhaust and am looking to modify it. I know this my sound stupid, but if i remove my muffler, will it hurt my engine with a decrease in back pressure? I've been looking around and some people say it will destroy the valves, others say its ok to run open headers, so I'm just looking for a second opinion. Like I said, the system is all stock and would be leaving the cat, and just removing the muffler. Thanks

Posted
Hi, I have a 1998 Gmc Sierra, 5.0L, stock exhaust and am looking to modify it. I know this my sound stupid, but if i remove my muffler, will it hurt my engine with a decrease in back pressure? I've been looking around and some people say it will destroy the valves, others say its ok to run open headers, so I'm just looking for a second opinion. Like I said, the system is all stock and would be leaving the cat, and just removing the muffler. Thanks

 

 

It may not directly hurt your engine but you will lose horse power for sure... I have a truck with the 350 5.7L with no mufflers... Its LOUD but I am wanting to welding some type of muffler in place to get back some of the HP AND Torque I have lost.. My truck currently has 200k....

Posted

If you're just replacing the muffler with a piece of straight pipe you'll be fine. Not going to give you any power (you might lose some down low), but you won't break anything.

Posted

I forgot to mention that my truck has 132000 original kms on it. So if I lose low end power, can i not just shorten the throttle cable to give me more RPM's, if that has anything to do with it. I no on my old 91 5.7L it was gutless, until I shortened the throttle, which in return was a helluva lot snapier at lower RPM's. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks...skidoosummit

Posted

I think you should take some 3 inch wood screws and screw the accelerator pedal to the floor. It'll be hard to keep still at lights but OH WHAT FUN driving everywhere at WOT!

Posted

Sound like a great way to gain some torque! I say GO FOR IT! :lol:

 

As a side note to the rest of you, Natural Selection will be dominate in situations like this. Just let Nature take it's course! :fume:

Posted

What the guys are trying to say is that you aren't actually gaining anything by shortening your throttle cable. Basically all you're doing is having the pedal depressed a little bit at all times (aka giving it gas). In fact, all you'll be getting is poorer gas mileage.

 

You will gain some power at the high end by having the muffler off, but if you want it back in the low end, you just need to get your system tuned. Just talk to an exhaust shop that knows what they're doing and they can advise you properly.

Posted

Hey Tyler,

 

When I bought my 98 Sierra 5.0 it had the exact exhaust your wanting to install. I don't know if it was tuned after or not but I haven't had any problems. It's just a little louder. :thumbs:

Posted

Hey, thanks for the input everyone. I took a good look under the truck and noticed that the stock setup has duals running from the exhaust manifold to the muffler, then single out. So I went to a shop and arranged to get the stock muffler cut off in replace of two Purple Hornies, running dual out the back end. Thats what I wanted in the first place, but could not afford to go dual from the manifold back. Now that I found out that its almost dual anyway, I thought what the hay, might as well run dual with the Purple Hornies in staed of straight piping it. Plus I think that i will enjoy the snappy sound of those. And if it has decreased low end power, I'll take it into a shop like Cowboy09 said to get tuned. Again, thanks for all the input, its been a good help.

Posted

If a loud rumble is what your after just run what us muscle car guys call a "Muffler Dump" get a nice sounding muffler put it in place of the original but don't run a tail pipe after the muffler, trust me it will be loud I got dual 40 series Flowmasters with no tail pipes on my Malibu and its gawd damn loud :lol:

 

Hoping to the the same to the pick-up when I get it fixed

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Correct.  2019-2021 model years are serviced by a different p/n.  19420611.  Recall 2021s use 19420611.   The recall engines 2022-2024 model years are serviced with 12740076.     The difference between 19420611 and 12740076 is GM changed injector size for 2022.  The injectors are smaller on 12740076 with smaller injector bores in the cylinder heads to match the smaller injectors.  So you can't install a 19420611 in a 2022-2024, and you can't install a 12740076 in a 2019-2021.     Both engines are the replacement engine p/ns that are in the L87 recall.  So both of these are the updated engines.      
    • Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
    • you might read through the info on gmupfitter.com for your truck, to find a good power source.
    • Melling I believe is/was the OEM on the lifters who explored this problem some years ago. The white paper they generated on the topic indicated two items of note when I read it. 1.) They only fail on the switch. Prevent the switch, prevent the failure. 2.) The majority fail due to deposits messing up the timing of that switch. Anyway that's what I got from it.    Mine have always been active, 195K+ now, and my oil maintenance is surgically clean.    Of course this assumes good parts. That is no heat treat issue or machining flaws. I get comfortable that these issues are in the rearview mirror by about 30K. IMHO naturally. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...