Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I purchased my first NEW chevy truck in July of 2008 and I wash it at the first sign of dirt/dust. I have owned pos's in the past and just ran them through the car wash but this truck means alot to me and I have more respect for it since the payments are coming out of my pocket. I have heard about people waxing twice a month if not more. I figured that waxing your vehicle makes it easier to keep clean and makes for a nice shine. I have only waxed my truck once and I paid a local car cleaning place to do it becasue I have heard that its hard to wax a truck thats BLACK and not have massive swirl marks and stuff. I want to do it myself because spending 80 bucks for a car cleaning place to do a wax job is kinda crazy. How often do I need to wax? What kind of prep work should I do? What wax do I use? What the heck is clay bar? I need some serious wax guidance. Please help. I want to keep my truck looking good and lasting a loonnnnnnnng time. Thanks in advance!

Posted

I usually wax mine 3 times a year. Once in the spring, once in the summer, and once in the fall before it starts snowing. I'm not as 'fussy' as some guys, I usually just wash it and then wax it and be done with it.

 

If you want to a real good job, you can wash it, clay bar it, use a cleaner wax, then a polish, and then top that off with a high quality wax. I use Meguiars Gold Class paste wax and think its easy to apply and remove.

Posted

Nice truck, but....

 

9. Signatures may contain images, but may not be any larger than 700x200. If your signature is larger than the allotted size given, you will be requested by a moderator to resize your image. Please also keep text signatures under 5 lines. Failing to append with a moderator will result in the removal of your signature.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?act=boardrules

 

:lol:

Posted
Nice truck, but....

 

9. Signatures may contain images, but may not be any larger than 700x200. If your signature is larger than the allotted size given, you will be requested by a moderator to resize your image. Please also keep text signatures under 5 lines. Failing to append with a moderator will result in the removal of your signature.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?act=boardrules

 

:lol:

 

And you're a moderator? :thumbs:

Posted
Nice truck, but....

 

9. Signatures may contain images, but may not be any larger than 700x200. If your signature is larger than the allotted size given, you will be requested by a moderator to resize your image. Please also keep text signatures under 5 lines. Failing to append with a moderator will result in the removal of your signature.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?act=boardrules

 

:lol:

 

And you're a moderator? :lol:

 

 

nah, just a sig nazi! :thumbs:

Posted

A simple pm wouldve been fine... now I have a hijacked thread! :lol: Anywho. Any kind of tools needed to do a good wax job? Or just do it the old fashioned way?

Posted

I hate waxing! That said, I paid the local "auto spa" to clay, buff and wax my truck within a week or two of buying it. I didn't know what they used to wax it and wanted long protection (so I don't have to do it often, did I mention I hate waxing?) so I waxed it the next wash a week later with Meguires NXT Gen Tech 2 wax. Some of the guys here have had good luck with that wax. It's new to me, so I don't know. Looks good afterward. I used a Meguires "Quick Detailer" spray tonight after washing. Looks much nicer than just the wash.

 

Clay is a literally a piece of clay that is used with some type of lubricant and rubbed across the finish to remove that imbedded grit that is in most paint after setting outside for months. It's a real pain in the ass, IMO. But, it does a great job of getting the crap outta the paint. Then you have to polish the paint with a polish and use a wax or go right to a one step wax. Some of the really hardcore paint conservators won't use a one step wax due to the abrasives and other options that give better shines (much more work usually).

Posted
A simple pm wouldve been fine... now I have a hijacked thread! :P Anywho. Any kind of tools needed to do a good wax job? Or just do it the old fashioned way?

 

Welcome to the funny farm. :smash:

I like to use Meguiar's.

Posted

Go to the Mequiars website. They have some pretty solid tutorials on how to get through wash, claybar, polish and wax.

Posted
Go to the Mequiars website. They have some pretty solid tutorials on how to get through wash, claybar, polish and wax.

 

+1

 

Meguairs.com

 

I usually wax it once a month during the good weather. What I do is as follows:

1. Wash with a quality car wash, not dish soap. I use a quality lambs wool mitt.

2. Dry with quality microfiber towels.

3. Clay bar using Meguairs Smooth Surface Kit.

4. Wax with Meguairs Cleaner Wax or ColorX. Apply with quality foam applicator and remove with quality microfiber.

Posted

Thanks guys. Once all the salt gets cleared from the bridges here in dfw I'll have to get busy. My wife once asked when we were dating..."Where do I buy elbow grease?" So everytime I hear someone say elbow grease I tend to crack up. :D

Posted
Go to the Mequiars website. They have some pretty solid tutorials on how to get through wash, claybar, polish and wax.

 

 

Went there. Joined. Those guys are INtense on this waxing stuff. They clay cars that never have seen daylight.

 

I think if you are satisfied with the work you got from that detailer, $80 is well worth it. Crap, spending an entire weekend to clay, buff and wax vs. the $80 is a no brainer to me, and I'd bet you likely will get a better job for the $80. I paid $150 for a clay, buff and wax.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • While waiting for parts I have been working on installing the AC compressor, new accumulator, and orifice tube. Also changed out the high side ball valve (original). The orifice tube that was in there wasn't too bad. Slightly dirty, a little bit of junk, but not blocked. Glad I changed it out.   The accumulator, which should have been a 5 minute job, may have just burned $50. Put some PAG in it, wrote the date and mileage on the side, fresh o-rings and gooey'd up the threads and rings with Nylog. Got everything connected and snugged and was going to vacuum down the system, and....   My manifold gauge won't fit on the port. It's not an R12 service port. It LOOKS like an R134 service port but the diameter is a hair too large. There's a sticker on the accumulator that says it's designed to be used with R12 and R134a systems only. So it's not R1234yf. Even if I reduced the diameter slightly with a file, the shoulder on the port is too large so the quick-connect valve won't lock on. I'm stumped. It's going back, and 50/50 on if they'll give me a refund.   Also, I did a fuel pressure test.... Key on, the gauge spikes to about 60psi and quickly bleeds off, like 2psi per second. The fuel isn't going into the plenum, no smell, starts fine, so I'm guessing there's a bad check valve in the pump and the fuel is just draining back into the tank. oh, hell. But, it shouldn't be a problem, pump primes just fine and the truck starts right up. It just means I can't really ever use fuel pressure to verify a leak at the injector or intake.
    • Got this yesterday out of nowhere. Truck is a 25',6.6 gasser with 8k miles.  Only semi anomaly is that the truck had been sitting, uncranked for 6 days. Elec Stability Control showed immediately upon cranking, not while driving. No drivability issues, just the message. Battery didn't seem to be weak when cranking over.  I drove it, killed it, let it sit a few hrs with no avail.  Truck is 100% stock. No damage. 
    • This can be done.  It is not cheap and requires an instrument cluster swap with custom programming, new steering wheel with the controls on it, and a special jumper harness.   The cluster upgrade - 12.3” Digital Cluster Upgrade – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The wheel upgrade - Steering Wheel Upgrade Kit – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The column harness upgrade - 2019 - 2026 Silverado / Sierra: Steering Wheel LIN Bus Harness - Harness Dr. - DIY Done Right     The problem with doing all of this?  You pretty much can't have any programming done to your truck that involves the cluster ever again.  The dealer won't be able to program the cluster as GM's system will only pull data for the cluster the truck came with.  So it would be advised also to turn off over the air updates.   TLDR;  Should have bought an LT double cab?  You'd have a power seat, the wheel controls, the cluster, all things that you've been seeking in your various posts so far about your new WT regular cab.  
    • I was unaware of that, thanks for updating me.
    • Yes.  The 2.7 Turbomax has Active Fuel Management.  It is NOT the same as the V8s.  Totally different system.     Here is an article from GM when the 2.7 came out explaining the cylinder deactivation and the valve lift system.  Starts at the section called "SCS Valvetrain":   New Turbocharged 2.7L 4-Cylinder Engine Powers Full-Size Trucks – TechLink         This is an internet myth going around.  It was alleged that some 5.3s had this mystical 8th digit of the VIN as an "E" which somehow meant it had a new one year only 5.3 that didn't have DFM.  The writer of said article and the person that made the claim conveniently can't count because they posted the VIN.  The 8th digit was a "D" which meant its still the 5.3 with DFM.  The 9th digit of the VIN was an "E" and the 9th digit isn't the engine code.  At all.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...