Jump to content

All Right..need Some Help, Please.

Blake

By Blake
in Ask A GM Technician

Recommended Posts

Blake Enthusiast

Blake

Posted
Posted

So..I go up today and start my truck..starts normal etc..the previous day or two I had just put in a new serpentine belt and cleaned my MAF. So..I drive it up to the top of our driveway to let the trashcan out. Get back in start it..nothing. No lights, no sounds, nothing. So, I figure..alright..battery? nope. holding steady charge. Alternator? took that out and drove it up to get it checked..that was still fine. I am literally at a loss. The only thing that could tip this off is for the past few weeks when it has been below freezing and sitting over night it made a whine when started but after a few seconds went away. No whine at all after I replaced the belt..figured it was slipping on the water pump or so. One other thing..I cleaned the battery terminals (dirty..but not filthy) and I got my dome light/door lights..tried starting it..click then back to black..a few seconds later it would run through I suppose is an electrical computer check I'd get lights and sound..try ignition again..same deal click and black.

 

ANY help is appreciated..I have a paper to write and school in the morning. heh. Thanks in advance!

L29er Senior Enthusiast

L29er

Posted
Posted

Check your grounds they are very common to corrode on the GMT 800 trucks, i beleive there is one passenger rear of engine and one left front of engine that are common problems...also check cables for "soft" spots were they could be corroded.

Blake Enthusiast

Blake

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Check your grounds they are very common to corrode on the GMT 800 trucks, i beleive there is one passenger rear of engine and one left front of engine that are common problems...also check cables for "soft" spots were they could be corroded.

 

Done and done..all seemed fine.

 

 

It sounds like your battery cables are loose. Check the battery, and the engine to make sure they are all tight.

 

Done..all was good.

 

 

I am starting to think it is something to do with the starter maybe?

DofD Senior Enthusiast

DofD

Posted
Posted

Had a similar problem with similar symptoms. The +ve battery terminal was broken inside the battery and would loose it's connection or have a poor connection. Solution, new battery. If you can, try swapping in a different battery to see if it makes a difference or not.

Blake Enthusiast

Blake

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Alright..ripped the starter out (what a PITA that is to get to!) and took it in to have it checked, it was bad so I bought a replacement and I will be putting it in tonight and will let you guys know from there.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • smooth68
      Alternate wiring for Kicker sub with Bose system. (DO THIS)

      By smooth68 · Posted

      I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...