Jump to content

Zerk Fittings


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2004 GMC Yukon Denali and I would like to know were i can find out were all my zerks are and how many I have? I am also not sure what one looks like? Thanks for all your input! :lol:

Posted

Zerk #7, the Upper end of idler arm mount is a real pain to get to. Like the link mentioned, I also swapped it over to a 90 degree zerk and this worked much better.

Posted
Zerk #7, the Upper end of idler arm mount is a real pain to get to. Like the link mentioned, I also swapped it over to a 90 degree zerk and this worked much better.

Can I just buy one of these 90 degree Zerks at an parts store?

Posted
Zerk #7, the Upper end of idler arm mount is a real pain to get to. Like the link mentioned, I also swapped it over to a 90 degree zerk and this worked much better.

Can I just buy one of these 90 degree Zerks at an parts store?

 

Yup, that what I did. I removed the old zerk, wrapped the area with a plastic bag to prevent crap from getting in the hole and took it to a parts store to match up the thread size. The new one just screwed into the hole and it was good to go.

  • 1 month later...
Posted
Yup, that what I did. I removed the old zerk, wrapped the area with a plastic bag to prevent crap from getting in the hole and took it to a parts store to match up the thread size. The new one just screwed into the hole and it was good to go.

 

Do you remember what the thread size was?

Posted
Yup, that what I did. I removed the old zerk, wrapped the area with a plastic bag to prevent crap from getting in the hole and took it to a parts store to match up the thread size. The new one just screwed into the hole and it was good to go.

 

Do you remember what the thread size was?

 

 

I cannot recall the thread size, and I cannot remember if it was metric or not. I just took the old one in, showed it to the guy and asked for a 90 degree one of the same size. He found one in his stash of zerks and away I went.

Posted

I am pretty sure that all bolts and nuts and everything else with threads on these trucks are metric. It simplifies a lot of things. It was ridiculous when GM mixed SAE and metric fasteners on the same car in the 70s and 80s. I hated that 15 mm alternator belt tensioning bolt on my '77 Camaro and '83 Pontiac Bonneville. with almost all other bolts being SAE.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,737
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Christopher Miller
    Newest Member
    Christopher Miller
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 2 Anonymous, 1,529 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Without knowing how bad your banging is, one suggestion is the intermediate steering shaft on the steering wheel. These used to be a problem on 800 and earlier series. The feeling/sound was sometimes described as "clunking" and was felt in the wheel. Also there is a plastic piece in the lower column that is referred to as a bearing. Not your traditional looking bearing though. Your ball joints, bushings and tie rods or steering rack (if equipped) are the main point of issues. You never mention total unit miles, only that you've put 60k on it.   You can search the site for help on the ISS description. Plenty of these have been replaced   https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=site%3Agm-trucks.com+intermediate+steering+shaft&ia=web
    • Yes I have is set with the 1mm disk (Minumim Tension), for spring spacing and I raised my truck in the rear 1.5". You can go 2mm  and I think 3mm if you need.Minimum. We are on our way to TN from GA.. My wife is driving and stated she cannot believe  and   stated she can not belive the difference.
    • Most 1 ton trucks come with the factory overload spring, which need to be removed for installation of RoadActive Suspension. Removing the overload allows proper fitment and ensures the system works as intended. The RAS® Mega-Duty kit will reduce squat and provide significant improvement vs the factory overload spring.
    • I wonder as well, why they would send me a text message with links to these suggested procedures totalling over $10,000 without even the slightest hint of how they arrived at these being necessary.
    • https://precisionlubrication.com/articles/oil-filter-efficiency/     For them it is a problem of $$$$ and compliance. To cover both they have to lie from the heart.    Government wants low waste oil numbers so the bar needs to be very low on contamination to met that requirement.  Consumer wants cheap maintenance (perceived cost). Again requiring a low bar.  OEM wants high margins at a cost effective warranty rate and lots of repeat customers. More low bar.  Filter manufacture wants the same thing the OEM wants. See the pattern?   Consumers are fickle and also want perfection requiring a HIGH bar. Inconsistent with all of the above. Consumers can be, when the put their minds to it, inquisitive, love winning arguments which requires some useful information to be available to support them. And this is where it gets sticky and the lies begin.    Information needs a solid well grounded point of reference if we are to compare in a useful way. There is a standard for this.  ISO 4548-12. This standard sets the particle size at a specific Beta ratio and darn few are faithful to its intent.    If they don't state the test method they change the particle size or the Beta ratio to hit a perceived favorable standard. They obscure the information in a way as to prevent direct comparisons leaving the consumer with one method. UOA's with an ISO 4406 test result. Pricey and not allot of labs willing to do the work. Lobby work happens everywhere, not just at the seat of government.       
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...