Traction Off And Abs Lights On Simultaneously

[ujtruck]

both the ABS warning light and the Traction (slipery icey sign) Off warning lights stay on continuously

 

I did search and found following thread:

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...raction+control according to that there are no fix from GM or Dealer

 

could this be a dirty sensor or somthing?

 

I am pretty sure - you smart guys out there know how to get around it, please help me -

 

Thanks

 

btw: I didn't go to my dealer yet, I hate going there...I'm not kidding

[ujtruck]

snip

[ujtruck]

bump ?

[ujtruck]

is it hard to remove wheel speed sensor ?

[bill190]

Any electrical problem like this can be fixed. First you need to find out what the problem is though.

 

In the past I was an electronic technician (not in automotive field) and I would be one of the people who would find the problems for something like this. The way it would work is a customer would bring in their electronic product. Then I would find the problem...

 

Sometimes it would be a manufacturing problem and I would notify the manufacturer about the problem in detail. Then their engineering department would either design a new replacement part without the problem or come up with a modification which would fix the problem.

 

Then they would send notification of the problem and new part / fix out to all the repair shops. Then the repair shops would know how to fix the problem.

 

Something like this could be anything. It could be a wire rubbing against a piece of metal, it could be an integrated circuit chip, it could be a printed circuit board, etc.

 

Basically the manufacturer has the facilities to remanufacture an electronic part or printed circuit board if this is the problem, but no one else would do this due to the expense.

 

Anyway I think the best thing you could do would be to take your vehicle into the dealer (find another if not happy with current dealer) and let them do their thing.

[ujtruck]

Any electrical problem like this can be fixed. First you need to find out what the problem is though.

 

In the past I was an electronic technician (not in automotive field) and I would be one of the people who would find the problems for something like this. The way it would work is a customer would bring in their electronic product. Then I would find the problem...

 

Sometimes it would be a manufacturing problem and I would notify the manufacturer about the problem in detail. Then their engineering department would either design a new replacement part without the problem or come up with a modification which would fix the problem.

 

Then they would send notification of the problem and new part / fix out to all the repair shops. Then the repair shops would know how to fix the problem.

 

Something like this could be anything. It could be a wire rubbing against a piece of metal, it could be an integrated circuit chip, it could be a printed circuit board, etc.

 

Basically the manufacturer has the facilities to remanufacture an electronic part or printed circuit board if this is the problem, but no one else would do this due to the expense.

 

Anyway I think the best thing you could do would be to take your vehicle into the dealer (find another if not happy with current dealer) and let them do their thing.

 

 

Thank you Bill, I'm a electronic technician too - I almost nailed the issue, my EBCM is working - fuse #10 and #63 are good, only thing I didn't check is wheel speed sensor - because its too cold and ice on the ground. I am pretty sure I am going to fix this problem by myself.

 

my issue is ABS light turns on immediately after starting the engine, with-out moving - ABS light stay ON all times - so .

 

here is what I found from http://www.modulemaster.com site:

 

If the ABS light turns on immediately after starting the engine, you either have an open wheel speed sensor, or the ABS module is not getting power. Check the 50A ABS fuse in the engine compartment as well as the ABS fuse under the dash. If the fuses are good and power is getting to the module, check each wheel sensor as follows.

 

1) Jack up the front of the vehicle until both front wheels are off the ground.

 

2) Find the sensor connector inside the front-right wheel well, and disconnect it.

 

3) Set your multimeter on AC volts, and connect the probes to the connector leading to the sensor.

 

4) Spin the tire by hand while observing the multimeter. You should get 180-250 milivolts AC. If not, check the resistance of the sensor. It should be 600-2400 ohms. If you're reading infinite resistance (open circuit), or very low reistance (a short), the sensor is bad.

 

5) If you are reading a fluctuating voltage from the sensor, but it is not within the range indicated, you probably have a dirty sensor. Remove the tire and locate the sensor mounted within the wheel hub. Remove the sensor and thoroughly clean any corrosion from the aluminum mating surface as well as the sensor's mating surface. Reinstall sensor and tire, then measure voltage again.

 

6) Repeat the same process for the front-left sensor. Keep in mind that a discrepancy in voltage between the two front sensors may also indicate a dirty sensor- even if the voltage is within the specified range. In this case, remove and clean both sensors.

 

7) Drive the vehicle and perform a brake test. If the problem persists, check the rear sensor connector for corrosion, although this rarely occurs.

 

I hope this will help somebody out there too...