Jump to content

Speakers And Amp Questions


Recommended Posts

Posted

So currently I have 2 JL subs with a kicker amp and focal speakers in the front doors. I am about to order a set of infinity kappas for the rear doors and I had a couple questions. The focal's are 60 watts rms and so are the kappas. After the next paycheck I want to add an amp to them because I don't feel like all the power in the speakers is being used because its ran off the head unit with a rms power output of 20 watts. My question's are (1) Will I need a capacitor or something since I'll have two amps? (2) and what kind of amp should I be looking at to power the speakers. Thanks for any help yall can give.

Posted

Before you add a capacitor (which you may not even need to do) perform the "Big-3" Upgrade.

Posted

Upgrading your electrical system, under the hood, to improve factory wiring:

 

1) Battery negative to chassis

2) Alternator to battery positive

3) Chassis to engine

 

 

Why do it?

 

1) Reduce dimming and smaller voltage drops

2) More stable voltage and better current flow

3) Less strain on your vehicle's charging system

Posted

+1 on the Big 3 upgrade. Don't waste your money on capacitors, they don't anything but put more load on your charging system.

 

Get the best amp you can fit into your budget (what is it, BTW?). It's much better to have an amp that is "too powerful" for your speakers than one that is too weak. A big amp will have more headroom for large peaks in volume and also for any possible future upgrades. If you can set the gains properly, you won't kill your speakers by using an amp that's "too big."

Posted
+1 on the Big 3 upgrade. Don't waste your money on capacitors, they don't anything but put more load on your charging system.

 

Get the best amp you can fit into your budget (what is it, BTW?). It's much better to have an amp that is "too powerful" for your speakers than one that is too weak. A big amp will have more headroom for large peaks in volume and also for any possible future upgrades. If you can set the gains properly, you won't kill your speakers by using an amp that's "too big."

 

I suck at wiring amps so figure in like 100 bucks for install and I hope to be around 300 or 400 bucks but if it goes over its no big deal I can pay it all off you know

Posted

If you want to stay with kicker amps and not spend much, pick up zx350.4. You will get 60wrms and it will only cost about $175 shipped brand new. The next step up in 4ch(kicker wise) is a zx650.4, too much imo.

Posted

Even if someone installs it for you and they set the gains correctly you still have to be careful with the volume knob.

Posted
Even if someone installs it for you and they set the gains correctly you still have to be careful with the volume knob.

 

This is why forums are around! I did not know that thanks for the advice

Posted

I will say what they said, since you are not doing the install your self, extra batteries and capacitors are usually worthless, since most of the stuff running will run when your truck is on, and then be powered by the alternator...

Posted

the wiring on the Silverado is heavy duty, I put a capacitor on mine and works like a charm.

 

As far as tuning goes for the stereo, they turn your volume all the way up too tune the system. That way when you're ready to JAM you dont have to worry about blowing your setup.

 

edit*** capacitor- I'm only using one because of the amount of power that my setup is using, other than thatI do not recommend one.

Posted

I'm not sure if you guys are going to be able to read this link if your not member but it explains why capacitors don't work. I know its long and fairly techinal but it will make sense if you have the time to read it entirely.

 

http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread...light=capacitor

 

Good choice on the amp. It will fit your needs very well. I'm all for headroom when it comes to amp selections. The kicker amp would be good too. Especially since almost 90% of Kicker amps are underrated by a fair amount. That particular one claims 60w rms x 4 at 4ohms. I would venture to say its probably closer to 75-80w x 4 at 4ohms. It would say on its birth sheet that you receive with the amp.

 

I'm also all for oversize wire for amp kits. You could probaby get away with an 8 gauge amp kit but I would go with a 4 gauge. It leaves you room for the future plus its no way going to hurt the amp to go larger. Just food for thought.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...