Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
Nowhere in the instructions does it say to flash the module. I would guess there is a ground that needs some attention. Where did you attach the fog lamp harness to the frame?

Rolling...thanks for the quick response, the ground is attached to the frame in the same spot the the chassis ground is located; right below the driver.

 

Posted

Looks like you did a good job securing the ground to clean metal, if that is ruled out I would double check the terminal in the fuse block...make sure its positively secured in the housing and that its in the correct socket!

Post up if you get it working!!

Posted

Well took the harness off the truck and reinstalled it again...no joy...the fog lamps still will not turn on. Has anybody else successfully installed fog light on a 2010 Silverado? If so need your help...is it possible they changed a setting in the computer from the 2007-2010?

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Here are the pics I promised of the wires at the fuse block for the fog lamp kit on the GMT900 Silverado

All pics are hosted on Photobucket, I am sorry if like me at work you cant view them. Get back to work!! LOl!!

 

Fuse block note the small gauge clean wire loom roing to the front of the cover. This is the power supply single wire for the foglamps

ChevFoglamps010x.jpg

 

Pull the cove off and lift the gray handles like so. The fuse block will lift straight up revealing the wire junction connectors beneath

ChevFoglamps011x.jpg

 

This is the junction block connectors under the fuse block. The bottom left light gray connector is the one that needs pulled. The single purple wire is the power wire

ChevFoglamps012x.jpg

 

Another pic, same connector removed showing the purple wire again

ChevFoglamps013x.jpg

 

the point of my special GM pointing tool shows where the terminal goes with the connector in place. The red slides on the side of the connector need to be removed before you insert the terminal. they are the 'Position Assurance Locks' that keep all the terminal firmly seated. just slide them out the side of the connector with a small flat screwdriver or pick.

ChevFoglamps015x.jpg

 

Once installed, they look and perform exactly like trucks that have them equipped from the factory. For color comparison, my low beams are PIAA bulbs now, the fogs have the stock bulb. Its not a normal bulb, it looks more like an Osram style bulb. It puts out quite a bit of light. focal pattern is good for stock lamps, you can see how close to the truck it lights up.

ChevFoglamps002x.jpg

 

The power wire just needs to be run to the accessories and grounded. Once done, the fog lamp switch will automatically power the circuit, no programming required. As an added bonus, the fog lamp indicator on the dash will come on too. Let me know if anyone needs more pics or if I can answer any more questions!

 

 

self quoted, for some reason the original pic links quit working. But in the quote they come up just fine.......... I dunno..

For those that are still looking for help wiring fog lamps in, hope this still helps!!!

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Thanks for the excellent pictorial write-up!! I am a new GMC/Duramax convert/owner. I just added remote start and an Edge Insight to my new ride. I have a fog lamp kit coming any day now. I was trying to learn what I could ahead of time. I "Googled" the fog lamp kit instructions and it led me here. Thanks again!!

  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Also looking for the photos or any help. I have the lights & switch installed, everything done, just need help with the fuse box. Thats a messy heap of wires in there.....any help would be GREATLY appreciated!

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Any chance for a working link to your photos?? Specifically purple power wire pin placement.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Any chance for a working link to your photos?? Specifically purple power wire pin placement.

 

Picture are working for me. Purple wire goes to cavity B-5 of the Connector.

First row is A, second row is B, etc.

Cavities in row B are 1 thru 5 From the terminal side it will be the fifth cavity, from the wire side it will look like the first cavity (left side) connector should be numbered at least on the ends of the rows. So install in B-5

Posted

MMM....this is all I get. Like he removed them from photobucket......and disappeared :noway:

 

Are the Silverado and Sierra fuse boxes the same ? I am assuming the fusebox/wiring is the same...

 

 

post-133901-0-64263600-1411748788_thumb.jpg

post-133901-0-64263600-1411748788_thumb.jpg

post-133901-0-64263600-1411748788_thumb.jpg

post-133901-0-64263600-1411748788_thumb.jpg

  • 11 months later...
Posted (edited)

I can't see the pictures can you please repost them or email them to me......never mind I see them now

Edited by Bryanjay08
  • 3 months later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted

Hello im new to the Forum and need help adding fog lamps to

my 2013 tahoe ppv. I purchased the oem/harness/lamps/switch.

And would like any help i can get. For some reason i cannot view

the pics that were posted all i see is a cat..Any help would be

truly appreciated, Thanks

 

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,264 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...