Jump to content

Cb Radio Install


Recommended Posts

Posted

After what felt like a week using a Dremel, drill, razor knife, etc. I finally got my big honkin' Cobra 29LTD to sit in my center console. Although my hands are nicked and cut, I'm very happy with the install. There really isn't any other appealing spot for a radio this size.

 

Some pics:

img0897u.jpg

img0898n.jpg

img0900n.jpg

and the external speaker...used a stock screw in the lower dash to mount the bracket so I didn't have to drill. My leg doesn't hit it at all and I'm not a small dude, 6'5" tall.

img0901z.jpg

Posted

Wow, good looking install. Looks like it fits pretty snug in there. Is it just an "interference" fit or do you actually have it screwed down in there somehow? I take it most of the cutting was in the "back" portion of the cubby?

 

I've got one of the cheap cobra radios (18 WX STII or something like that), in my truck now, use it mostly for the NOAA channels. I've been thinking about doing the cubby install on a scanner (been looking at the Uniden models) for a while now, just a bit queasy on cutting up the center console.

Posted
Wow, good looking install. Looks like it fits pretty snug in there. Is it just an "interference" fit or do you actually have it screwed down in there somehow? I take it most of the cutting was in the "back" portion of the cubby?

 

I've got one of the cheap cobra radios (18 WX STII or something like that), in my truck now, use it mostly for the NOAA channels. I've been thinking about doing the cubby install on a scanner (been looking at the Uniden models) for a while now, just a bit queasy on cutting up the center console.

I was gonna put in a couple L-brackets, but space was tighter than I expected. It's snug in there and isn't going anywhere, though. The cutting took forever, and if you look behind that cubby piece that pops out you'll see all that needs to be gutted in order to make that huge radio fit in there.

Posted

Nice install!

 

My radio is about the same size, but I can't figure out the best place to install it on the '07. :mad:

Posted
wow that looks really good man!! i have the same CB and i have a single cab 08 sierra so i dont have a center console :)

 

How did you mount your antennas? From your pic, it looks like they are in the forward stake holes in the bed, right??

Posted
wow that looks really good man!! i have the same CB and i have a single cab 08 sierra so i dont have a center console :)

 

How did you mount your antennas? From your pic, it looks like they are in the forward stake holes in the bed, right??

 

Yeah that looks like what it is

  • 2 years later...
Posted

You should be proud of that install! That's as clean as it gets! I have an '08 Sierra 2500 HD with no console and am looking to install a CB, but can't seem to find a suitable location that looks clean. I have a Cobra 29 LTD, but will get something smaller if it can be mounted and look good. Also, how/where do you mount the anteanna brackets? I had an '05 Silverado and mounted the dual brackets inside the front post holes in the bed. Had to do some spacing of the brackets, but it was a clean install. Can you post pictures of the anteanna mounts as well? Thanks and congrats on the good job in mountion your CB!

Posted

Old thread....but since it's been pushed to the top, I might as well put an update in.

Finally got my CB installed (mind you this was last summer). Good friend of mine made me a mounting base.

It works very well, and since it's only placed in the storage area of the concsole, it can be removed very easily if requierd.

 

cb1.jpg

cb2.jpg

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It is working as designed.  NHT and non NHT trucks have the same exact transmission cooling setup.  NHT just gets a larger radiator.     The transmission cooler loop on these is as follows.     -Transmission out goes into an oil to water heat exchanger (item #1 in the first illustration below).  This exchanger has engine coolant opposite the transmission fluid and uses engine coolant to warm and then regulate the transmission fluid temperature when its in the operating window.   - From the cooler it goes to a thermal bypass valve (item #11 in the 2nd illustration below).  If the ATF has not reached the temp to open the bypass (194F), it loops back.   - When it reaches 194F, the thermostat opens and ATF then flows out to the oil to air auxiliary cooler (item #17 in the 2nd illustration) at the front of the truck.  From there it goes back to the transmission.     Your only fix would be to swap for the PPE thermal bypass delete block which will open the loop to the aux cooler all the time.  It will STILL run warm, probably 170-200F, but that's as low as you'll get it as its still flowing through the oil to water exchanger.      
    • Most say the oil temperature needs to above the boiling point of water to rid it of moisture and long enough to dry it. Many think that is about a hour at 212 F or more. Those people have never line dried cloths in a Midwest winter. Leave a pan of water sitting on the counter and eventually it all evaporates. So heat drives the time it takes. Water in oil under 175 F, the Nitration initiation temperature, is a minimum then for temperature and samples I've done that use Karl Fisher method say about a hour (in a healthy well tuned motor) over 175 F will dry it to under 800 ppm. Low enough to not be much of a factor. Motors with weak rings will take longer and the colder the air temperature the longer it takes.   On a cold motor there is also the condensation temperature. Blowby gases that contain moisture are subject to that cold cylinder wall, like sweat on a glass of ice tea. But also subject to the Law of Partial Pressures. Wear studies by GM and the DOD  indicate wear is a real issue below 85 F and a concern to 140 F but doesn't become a minimal factor until about 160 F. You know this intuitively when you see water vapor exit the exhaust pipe until the system gets above the dew point. It isn't magic, it's physics and it fascinates me. I know you didn't ask but....I over share sometimes. 😉    You keep the Camaro's high and tight.  
    • Move further away.   Benefit of living out - none of our cars get short cycled, plenty of warm up time.   Curious how much time/temperature it takes to drive moisture/condensation out of the engine?
    • Switch a a 100% synthetic trans fluid, Amsoil works for me.
    • First of all sorry, I know there are a ton of transmission temperature threads...   My truck is a 2025 LZ0 High (10l89 10-speed) High Country with NHT max trailering package. The NHT package is supposed to have "enhanced cooling."   Normally the trans temp sits around 200. It seems like with any real stress it quickly jumps into the 220s (for example climbing a grade unloaded at lower speeds). I haven't towed much with this truck, but I'm concerned if it gets this hot unloaded.    I've tried a few different things to keep the temps down (tow/haul mode, sport mode, low range when that makes sense) and nothing seems to affect it.    I'm curious if others are the same behavior or if anyone has found techniques to keep the temps down. It seems like it just can't handle reduced airflow at lower speeds, even with relatively light loading.    Thanks!      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...