2004 Sierra 1500 Z-71 Front Hub Bearing

buckrivet · May 27, 2009

I've done a search and found little info but mostly on older/different models. i'm getting a pretty bad growl while turning left at any speed. sounds like it's coming from the front left of the truck. my abs light is also coming on/off intermittently. i pulled the tire, brakes, and rotor off and nothing is really standing out as the problem. not much play at all with the truck jacked up and wiggling the tire at 12 oclock and 6 oclock. could it be the bearing is on it's way out but not to the point of there being slop in the wheel? anything else i should check for before replacing the hub/bearing assembly? i'm positive it is not the steering shaft as my dads gmc had that problem and was a much different and "lighter" sound. also what are the steps for hub removal? thanks in advance. this forum rocks!!!!

Stevens03 · May 27, 2009

I don't have the steps, but I know it's not a bad job. Just need a big socket to remove the CV shaft. I'm sure someone here will be able to tell you the size and steps. But yes, it does sound like a bearing going bad.

buckrivet · May 27, 2009

is it just the big axle nut, the 3 bolts on the hub and then the axle slides out?

buckrivet · May 27, 2009

i bought this truck used with 20000 miles. i just noticed it looks like someone has been in here before me.

Mr_Rooney · May 28, 2009

My exerience with 99 Silverado 1500 4x4 and 2001 Tahoe 4x4 front hub replacement

WARNING: Trust but verify

Sorry, no pictures, dark and rainy emergency repair.

Part number: NAPA BR930304 ($167)

Mine had the Timken bearing which by web comments is the best

bearing for this unit. It is cheaper if you order off the web.

I did not have the time to wait. A new antilock sensor is already

in place and it comes with ALL the clips.

Hub nut part number: 10289657 (Stabbed by dealer for $9.00)

Does not come with the replacement hub unit and it is highly recommended

to NOT reuse the original nut. It is one of those nuts where the locking

mechanism is a pre-crush.

My experiences:

1. Live in a rust area? PB Blaster, LPS, Liquid Wrench

or your personal fav on all the bolts prior to dissasembly.

It will make a difference. These are not hardware store

fasteners. Damage the head and your out of luck till the

dealer parts department opens.

2. Don't have 6 point metric sockets? Get at least a 15 mm 3/8

drive 6 pointer for the 3 hub retaining bolts. If there

is rust, a 12 pointer might round the bolt head with a few tugs.

Not much room due to the axle so an impact socket is too wide.

A 1/2 inch drive socket might work, but I know the 3/8 drive

does work. BTW, these bolts do not have to completely come out.

They will not anyway as the drive axle is in the way.

3. Do be careful to NOT damage the boot or you will extend the repair

time. And once the hub is off, don't tug on the drive axle too much.

Would it be possible to undo the CV joint somehow? I don't know and

did not want to find out.

4. It will be easier if the brake line retainer on the steering knuckle

top is removed. Then when the caliper bracket is removed (with the

caliper still inplace if you don't have to do the brakes too) the

whole unit will comfortably rest on top of the upper control arm.

5. My rotors were loose. If yours are original they might be very

difficult to get off. I was lucky, the dealer replaced the original

antilock sensors under warrenty and had to get the rotors off. My

guess is they used a puller. They also had to have used a puller

to remove the dust cap - what a pita to get that off.

6. Once the rotors are off the hub nut can be removed. It is metric

but a 1 3/8 " socket seems to work fine. I used a crowbar across

the wheel studs to stop the axle from spinning. Let the crowbar

rest against the ground. Once the 3 hub bolts (access from the rear

of the steering knuckle) are off, the hub might be difficult to

get off. In my case it was rust between the inner contact surfaces.

I tried tapping on the 3 hub bolts but did not want to damage that

boot. A few taps with a large hammer on the wheel flange and

an opening appeared. Using a thin chisel I was able to walk it out.

7. This bearing is a sealed unit. There seems to be little protecting it

on the backside as water and all the dissolved gunk can enter from

the backside. Mine died from loss of lubrication as the integral

rubber o-ring had been extruded from the bearing. Looks like grime

got in there and just ground that o-ring up. But I had 150k miles.

Others said their bearings died as early as 30k miles.

Torque

Chiltons manual:

The three bolts holding the flange assembly to the steering knuckle: 133 ft-lbs

The two caliper bracket to steering knuckle bolts: 129 ft-lbs

The two caliper mounting bolts: 80 ft-lbs These are T55 size Torx

Hub nut 165 ft-lbs

(online SKF document lists this as 155 ft-lbs)

Special note on hub nut installation: NO IMPACT WRENCHES. Parts guys

told me this will cause premature bearing failure and voids the warrenty

on the hub unit. I used the crowbar across the wheel studs (with protection

of the stud threads) to hold the axle. The nut is not that difficult

to torque.

In your web reading beware of discussions pertaining to 2500 series

bearing replacement. The proceedure is similar but the torques are

different and in some locations very high. These high torques could

cause bolt or thread failure in the 1500.

ukrkoz · May 28, 2009

well, if you have no play at 6 and 12, it's not your hub bearing. but what do i know.

growl in tight left turn? and it's 4x4, right? ever looked at your driveaxle? as that sounds more like it.

center nut is 36mm, rental any parts store, no need to buy.

hub replacement is virtually 10 minute job. just don't forget to loosen the center nut 1st, while wheel is down on the ground. long 1.2 inch drive and cheatpipe do the magic just fine.

same time, or just for the sake of it, pull out ABS sensor and simply clean it. no, rasp or file won't do it. carb cleaner and fine sandpaper.

buckrivet · May 28, 2009

actually the growl isnt heard at sharp left turns. i dont hear it when i'm pulling into a parking spot or making a u-turn etc. it's only at speeds above about 10mph. sweeping left turns is when it's the loudest. when you say it sounds like drive axle, do you mean the front gear box or the axle itself? is there a way to test this? i did have it in 4-hi over the weekend and it didnt make any noise??? sorry for all the questions. my specialty is boats, not trucks lol.

chuddyrudd · May 28, 2009

my login information is on my work computer and i'm at home so i created a new login. i am the original poster of this thread. i just got done replacing the wheel bearing hub assembly and that didnt fix my problem. can i pull the front drive/cv shaft off and drive it to see if the noise goes away or will it be bad to drive without this shaft?

ukrkoz · May 29, 2009

hate to be this way, but you just made yourself 200 bucks lighter for nothing, and it is all because you jumped on guesspair - repair on a guess.

if it wobbles at 3 and 9, it is your tierod end. if at 6 and 12 - it is your hub bearing.

besides driveaxle, i'd also check out engine mounts. powertrain moves A LOT in turns, and it can rub on something in swiping or other turns. is it a rubbing noise, a banging noise, what kind of noise is it?

driveaxles show themselves the worst in reverse, for some reason. put it into reverse, and make swiping turn.

also, you can get truck on a lift, and have it running in D. turning wheels this way and that way can point out the noise source.

also, you can have helper driving slowly in a parking lot, with you walking next to truck. noises are much easier pointed from the outside.

torn driveaxle boot will almost for sure point towards CV joint problem.

GM had TSB on noises produced by crossmember movement in turns for some models.

chuddyrudd · May 29, 2009

thanks for playing but it turns out my $120 "guesspair" was only half wrong. it was the right side not the left. i swapped them out and she's running perfect. no more growl or hum. steering wheel feels much better too. thanks to all who helped!!

1500CCZ71 · June 8, 2009

Been reading the forums on the replacement of the front hub bearing assembly. Took all the bolts off but can't seem to get the hub asembly itself to pull out. Anyone have any advice on what it takes to pull this sucker out? If I can't get it off myself, gonna have to put everything back together and drive it to a repair shop. Trying to avoid that. So, let me hear your creative tricks on this. Thanks.

brock1999 · June 12, 2010

I just did my front left hub on my 2004 GMC Z71. It was really easy. Just pull off the wheel and brake caliper mounting bolts. I engaged the 4WD to hold the axle so I could break loose the axle nut. Removed the ABS wire, removed the 3 bolts in the back. Had to use a puller to loosen up the axle /hub assembly. Usung a punch makes it easy to split the flange on back of the hub. Cleaned up the bearing area added some anti seize to the splines and installed, torqued and done!

JaredM · June 12, 2010

my 04 duramax had a bad wheel bearing. Cost me 800 bucks to fix...wow

southern comfrt · June 19, 2010

i had this problem on a 98 z71,drove me nuts trying to figure out where the growling was coming from.absolutly no play at all in the front bearings(bad bearings dont always have play at 6 and 12)pulled the driver side out and it felt rough while i spun it,replaced it and that was that

zedbear · June 19, 2010

Break the half shaft nut loose before jacking the truck up and removing the wheel. Then you don't have to fool around with trying to hold hub while wrenching on that nut.

I replaced the passenger side hub recently and using sockets for the three hub bolts is almost impossible due to interference from the outer CV joint. I just used wrenches. A gear wrench would have been nice but I still haven't aquired those for some reason, lol.