Removing Front Brake Rotor On 2006 Silverado

kitsapken · July 20, 2009

New to this site and just saw the "Ask the Tech" forum. I'm trying to replace the front brake rotors on a 2006 Silverado 1500. Rotors are frozen on and I've tried penetrating lubricant and beating with hammer, but won't budge. What are the 3 small holes in the face of the rotor for? Are these for pulling the rotor off the hub? One of these has a #30 torx screw in it. Funny thing is I didn't think about the holes until my wife pointed out after I spent 2 hours cussing at the darn thing.

Also, my new Power Stop cross-drilled rotors do not have these holes.

Thanks.

txab · July 20, 2009

Remove the screw. It is only there to hold the rotor on during manufacturing process.

kitsapken · July 20, 2009

Remove the screw. It is only there to hold the rotor on during manufacturing process.

I removed the torx screw. Any clue what are the other two holes are for? If not, any suggestions for removing the frozen rotor.

txab · July 20, 2009

I use PB Blaster to get things loose. Are you getting the liquid around the hub where the rotor meets it in the center. You could always try applying heat to the rotor while tapping it.

kitsapken · July 23, 2009

For those wondering the two threaded holes are for a 3/8-16 (coarse thread) bolt. When threaded into the hole it will hit against the hub and eventually pop the rotor off. Continue to ratchet the bolt until you hear the rust cracking. You will need to brace the rotor with a pry bar wedged into the rotor fins so that it stays stationary while you are cranking the bolt down. Use a grade 5 or SS bolt so that it doesn't gall up or bust the head off because you have to really crank hard on it.

sulzbachk · July 26, 2009

I always apply some never seize between hub and rotor when installing new rotors. In fact my mini cooper, which I purchased new, had never seize from the factory.

2000DV4.8 · July 26, 2009

For those wondering the two threaded holes are for a 3/8-16 (coarse thread) bolt. When threaded into the hole it will hit against the hub and eventually pop the rotor off. Continue to ratchet the bolt until you hear the rust cracking. You will need to brace the rotor with a pry bar wedged into the rotor fins so that it stays stationary while you are cranking the bolt down. Use a grade 5 or SS bolt so that it doesn't gall up or bust the head off because you have to really crank hard on it.

What this guy said. Stick a bolt in each hole, and crank each one down a little bit at a time. Eventually it'll press the rotor off of the hub (Had to do this on a co-worker's Altima the other day).