Adding Sub To Bose System?

[lilnotts]

I want to add a sub to my crew cab with the bose system. I'm going to use a line out converter but I'm wondering where would be the easiest place to connect. I was thinking maybe under the center console to the wires going into the stock sub. Any suggestions would be great.

[RayGMC]

I'm in the same situation. The only problem I can think of is that the head unit lowers the bass as the volume increases. This will make it difficult for you to tune the output of your new amp. If you tap into the front speakers you will amplify the door chimes, etc...

 

Hopefully someone else will chime in and give you a better answer.

[brantmacga]

i tapped the rear speakers underneath the cupholders in the center console (gmt800).

 

and yes, its very hard to maintain a consistent sound at the subs from the bose radio.

 

 

i'm in the process of changing my audio setup; a product i'm looking at to solve the EQ issue is the 'clean sweep' by JL audio.

[icetraxx]

If you tap into the wires before the bose amp then you don't have the decrease in bass problem. I tapped into mine in the center console using a speaker wire to rca converter. $15 at radio shack. The inputs before the amp are low level inputs. It worked out great because my amp only took low level inputs. Mine works great and sounds pretty good to. I really need to make up my mind as to weather or not I am going to replace my head unit or just by pass bose all together and add another amp and replace the components in the front doors.

[BlitherinIdiot]

If you tap into the wires before the bose amp then you don't have the decrease in bass problem. I tapped into mine in the center console using a speaker wire to rca converter. $15 at radio shack. The inputs before the amp are low level inputs. It worked out great because my amp only took low level inputs. Mine works great and sounds pretty good to. I really need to make up my mind as to weather or not I am going to replace my head unit or just by pass bose all together and add another amp and replace the components in the front doors.

 

 

This is dead on. The standard Bose head unit does not process the audio. All of the processing is done within the Bose amplifier. As long as you get your signal prior to the factory amplifier, you should not have issues with bass level decreasing as volume increases.

 

I spoke to JL Audio about the Cleansweep and they said it was not necessary for the Bose system UNLESS you have the premium Bose with 5-channels. This head unit does all of the processing in the head unit.

[RayGMC]

Check out this link. Amp install

[lilnotts]

does anyone know which ones are the inputs to the amp to tap into? and that other thread just taps into the sub wires so it would be affected by the processing

[icetraxx]

I'm not sure about the color codes of the wires for the 09. I have an electrical diagram of the 08 electrical system that I used that I downloaded and it just happened that the color codes for the wires matched.

 

yea theif you tap into the subwires you will get the same effect. My bose sub is

does anyone know which ones are the inputs to the amp to tap into? and that other thread just taps into the sub wires so it would be affected by the processing

[GMC_SD_08]

Check out this link. Amp install

 

Ray,

 

Thanks for linking to this install. Very informative. If the above standard vs premium statements are correct it would seem this example install would only apply correctly for the standard bose (mainly referencing the line out signals) rather than premium, right? In this example it would seem the signals would still be reduced by the HU prior to being received by the amp or sub. Just curious if you were thinking the same or if this a holy grail of adding a sub even on premium bose with minimal wiring.

 

If this is for a standard bose could you install a JL cleansweep to these under console sub line outs in the example area and then run your RCAs from theres without having to go through installing anything in the behind the Nav HU dash area?

 

Thanks,

Michael

[lilnotts]

well i just tied into the sub wires, seems to push the sub pretty good, now i'm just working on a box and finding a good spot for the amp to keep as much floor space as i can

[GMC_SD_08]

well i just tied into the sub wires, seems to push the sub pretty good, now i'm just working on a box and finding a good spot for the amp to keep as much floor space as i can

 

Do you have the standard or premium (Y91-RPO) bose system? My understanding is with the premium bose the HU will lower bass output the louder you turn it up. However, with the standard bose since your tapping in before the amp you will not have this issue as the amp does the output decreasing rather than the HU. Glad it seems to be working for you.

[brantmacga]

so what color wires in the gmt800 are unprocessed signal?

 

i'm tapped into the rear speakers at the harness under the cupholder and the problem is there.

[RayGMC]

I found this pinout of the connectors on the back of the head unit while searching for more information. It seems to cover both the premium(non-lux) and the luxury(Y91) pinouts. I am not sure how accurate any of this information is though.

 

Michael- I'm in the same boat as you with the luxury(Y91) Bose system. It's my understanding that the premium(non-lux) Bose headunit sends a processed signal to the amp. The non-lux amp is set to amplify the signal it receives and does not process it. The luxury(Y91) Bose head unit sends low level signals to the amp. The lux amp processes the low level signal and sends the high level to the speakers. Pin 4 and 12 on Connector 4 should be a good place to tap for the sub low level signal. I figure it is the best place to get the signal before it hits the lux amp.

 

I'm open for commits and clarification if anyone knows better.

 

This is the output from the amp. It has pinouts for both systems. The Bose sub is a dual voice coil so that is why you see sub one and second sub below. This is in harness, under cup holder compartment, inside center console.

 

AMP output sub one

Dark blue/ white (+) pin 1 (UQS/UQA + Y91)or pin 7 (UQA-Y91)

light green/ black (-) pin 2 (UQS/UQA+Y91)or pin 8 (UQA-Y91)

 

Second sub

Light blue/black (+) pins 3 (UQS/UQA+Y91) or pin 2 (UQA-Y91)

Dark Green (-) pins 7 (UQS/UQA + Y91) or pin 6 (UQA-Y91)

 

 

14-Pin Connector C1:

Pin Wire Color Circuit No. Function

1 RD/WH 340 Battery Positive Voltage

2 TN 201 Left Front Speaker Output (+) (UQ3)

TN 511 Left Front Low Level Audio Signal (+) (UQA/UQS)

3 L-GN 200 Right Front Speaker Output (+) (UQ3)

L-GN/WH 512 Right Front Low Level Audio Signal (+) (UQA/UQS)

4 PK 5149 Voice Recognition Audio Signal (UE1)

5 PK/BK 5152 Low Reference (UE1)

6 WH 7066 Entertainment Remote Enable Signal

7 YE 6817 LED Backlight Dimming Control

8 BK 2550 Ground

9 GY 118 Left Front Speaker Output (-) (UQ3)

D-GN 1947 Left Front Low Level Audio Signal (-) (UQA/UQS)

10 D-GN 117 Right Front Speaker Output (-) (UQ3)

OG/BK 1546 Front Low Level Audio Signal (-) (UQA/UQS)

11 Bare 2011 Drain Wire (UQA/UQS)

12 -- -- Not Used

13 D-GN 5060 Low Speed GMLAN Serial Data

14 -- -- Not Used

 

16-Pin Connector C2:

Pin Wire Color Circuit No. Function

1 BN/WH 367 Remote Radio Left Audio Signal (U2K)

2 D-GN/WH 368 Remote Radio Right Audio Signal (U2K)

3 Bare 2099 Drain Wire (UQA/UQS/UK6)

4 L-GN 7396 DVD Video Signal 2 (+) (DNU)

5 BN 199 Left Rear Speaker Output (+) (UQ3)

BN/WH 599 Left Rear Low Level Audio Signal (+) (UQA/UQS)

6 D-BU 46 Right Rear Speaker Output (+) (UQ3)

D-BU 546 Right Rear Low Level Audio Signal (+) (UQA/UQS)

7 D-BU 658 Cellular Telephone Voice Signal (UE1)

8 OG 6978 Amplifier Control (UQA Except Y91)

9 TN/WH 372 Remote Radio Audio Output (-) (U2K)

10 GY 388 Remote Radio Right Audio Signal (U2K)

11 Bare 1573 Drain Wire (U2K)

12 WH 7394 DVD Video Signal 2 (-) (DNU)

13 YE 116 Left Rear Speaker Output (-) (UQ3)

BN 1999 Left Rear Low Level Audio Signal (-) (UQA/UQS)

14 L-BU 115 Right Rear Speaker Output (-) (UQ3)

TN 1946 Right Rear Low Level Audio Signal (-) (UQA/UQS)

15 L-BU/BK 659 Low Reference (UE1)

16 D-GN/WH 7395 Video Mode 2 Signal (DNU)

 

16-Pin Connector C3:

Pin Wire Color Circuit No. Function

1 YE 2059 Auxiliary Audio Left Signal

2 WH 2058 Auxiliary Audio Right Signal

3 L-BU 5826 Left DVD Audio Signal (+)

4 WH 5828 Right DVD Audio Signal (+)

5 OG/BK 5831 Remote Infra Red Signal (+)

6 PK/BK 5844 Video Bright Control

7 D-GN 6975 DVD Video Signal (+)

8 PU 2056 Auxiliary Video High Signal

9 Bare 5345 Drain Wire

10 L-GN/BK 5845 Video Module Signal

11 PU 6979 DVD Audio Common

12 Bare 6980 DVD Audio Shield

13 TN/WH 5830 Remote Infra Red Signal (-)

14 Bare 6976 DVD Video Drain Wire

15 WH/BK 5335 DVD Video Signal (-)

16 Bare 5346 Video Drain Wire

 

16-Pin Connector C4:

Pin Wire Color Circuit No. Function

1 -- -- Not Used

2 -- -- Not Used

3 D-BU 6760 Center Channel Low Level Audio Signal (UQS)

4 WH 6763 Subwoofer Low Level Audio Signal (UQS)

5 D-GN/WH 817 Vehicle Speed Signal (UVC)

6 PK 6972 Camera Signal #2 + (UVC)

7 L-BU 6973 Camera Signal #2 (UVC)

8 PU 5837 Amplifier Audio Prompt Signal (+) (UQS)

9 -- -- Not Used

10 -- -- Not Used

11 OG 6761 Center Channel Low Level Audio Signal (-) (UQS)

12 PK 6762 Subwoofer Low Level Audio (-) (UQS)

13 Bare 6759 Drain Wire (UQS)

14 -- -- Not Used

15 Bare 5838 Drain Wire (UQS)

16 GY 5836 Amplifier Audio Prompt Signal (-) (UQS)

[noupf]

sorry to thread jack, but does anybody know if it would be worth it to simply replace the bose sub-woofer with a higher quality sub? Since the system already has the amplified sub......I was thinking it would be easier to get a little more "bump" with a better quality woofer in place.........FYI, i mean to literally unscrew and take out the stock sub and replace it with a new, better sub. What size is the bose sub, doesn anybody know?

[RayGMC]

I believe it's 6.5". Probably not worth putting a different one in there. The stealth box is a better way to go in your case.