Adding Sub To Bose System?

GMC_SD_08 · April 13, 2010

That's great Jay.

I did the initial hook up of my amp and subs this past weekend. In my 07 SD I was able to use the instructions of the thread I posted. I tapped into the 4 wire harness under the cup holder and connected my line level converter to it. My line level converter had two adjustment screws to manipulate the output level. I had to turn them all the way down to get the correct level signal to my amp. I haven't put everything back together yet as I'm still testing how the Bose system adjusts the bass level as I drive. My first few test runs indicate the bass level stays the same and is proportional to the volume level as expected. I think I'm good to go.

Ray,

Glad to hear the early results look very promising. I hope the electrical diagrams helped as well. What line level converter did you purchase and where? Also just to jog my memory, where you tie in under the cup holder area is that before the amp or after the amp connection. It is interesting that you had to turn the gain all the way down. Please post or PM me some photos if you are able I would be most appreciative. I may be looking into the Stealthbox sooner than I realized if you are confirmed successful. Thanks again, Michael.

RayGMC · April 15, 2010

Michael- It is the output wires going to the dual voice coil Bose sub. The signal is pure bass so all the unwanted noice has already been filtered. Having that extra bass really fills the cabin and creates a much better listening experience.

I used a LOC from Best Buy. It's a IEC AULOC made by Install Edge. Click Me

jsholli · February 23, 2012

Hello all,

I have done a lot of research on the Bose UQA system and how to add an amp. I've studied this thread and also this one mentioned by another member in an earlier post. Forgive any redundancy and please correct me if I'm wrong, but since I don't have the luxury Y91, my radio signal will not be modified until after the amplifier gets it. However, the amp inputs [radio signal wires] will have a very low signal...enter the Rockford Fosgate BLD 3sixty powered LOC. It's much cheaper than the comparable units I've heard about [$73 on amazon on 2-22-12]. I'm not a tech, ASE cert'd or a pro installer so I thought I would lay out what I've learned from the threads and how I used it all to fill in the gaps I had.

I'm currently in the middle of my install: the 2/0 power wire is already ran on the passenger side, the cup holder tray is popped out, and I've unclipped the amp inputs and slipped them under the bottom of the console trim to unwrap enough of them to decipher and tap into the rear speaker wires. Just a note on the power wire...there was no hole or grommet on the passenger side, I had to drill through the firewall from inside in the wheel well--be very careful to triple check the inside and measure where you're drilling or you'll end up with holes through your glove box or up so high you won't have enough clearance to run the wire. Also, have a Dremel tool handy; my primary wire took a hole larger than my largest Ti bit, over 1/2"...4mm larger including the grommet [which I ended up not being able to fit into the hole anyway--had to seal with liquid nails.] Oh, and the plastic wheel well liner has at least one pop-clip that is larger than the rest. It is toward the front and is too big to completely fit in any of the mid or rear holes.

The main concern I had about an hour ago before I got back online was what wire to tap for my LOC. The pin listings completely messed me up since all the RPO codes changed what color wire was used. Luckily, when I pulled the amp inputs they only had the required audio wires and some other wires shielded in blue foil--I'm curious what they are, but I am more excited to get this system put in than to try to find out at the moment. Anyway, I found this schematic though Google, and it seems to hold true for my speaker wires [which are twisted in +/- pairs, I'm guessing]:

2007 Chevrolet Silverado C1500 Car Radio Wiring Schematic

Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange

Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: The radio harness does not provide a switched power source. Run a wire to the fuse box for switched power.

Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/White

Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray

Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Brown

Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Pink

Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A

Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Under the center console.

Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A

Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A

Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan

Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray

Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green

Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green

Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A

Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A

Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown

Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow

Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue

Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue

So, now I'm off to hook everything up and run RCA and remote turn-on wires; I just wanted to clear up where to tap into the wires for the UQA system. Thanks to all who contributed to these threads and good luck to all who still use them!

-John

jsholli · February 24, 2012

Btw, it all worked...I tapped into the little fuse/relay box under the dash for my +, -, and rem power wires for the BLD and also ran a remote wire back to the amp. I had to modify a female spade connector/receiver to attach to the bottom left terminal of the fourth group of terminals for the remote turn on wire--none of my powered terminals above the fourth group would turn off with the key, and the top three groups were all that were used on the left side of this fuse box in my truck so I couldn't tap a wire.

So now here I am with no back seats and 4000 watts of bass...my wife already hates it since I can't pick all the kids up, but it sure sounds good. I have to admit that I do miss my seats after two days already, but hope to turn these speakers quickly at work and will then go back to a single 12" that will come out easily. I'm not too keen on sonicating my truck anyway; these 15"s are just too much to have in a daily driver.

But, they're in and they work! I was first planning to have a local shop run the power and RCA wires, but there is no way that they would have done the quality of work that I expect nor would they have done everything required for the ~$150 that they quoted me...I probably put 14 hours of work in this! Thanks again to all of you for your help. Not only did I save a little cash, but I have the experience and pride of doing this job myself.

John