MotionMan

Im glad yiu figured it out, it shoukd be like this and the look is so much better. I would like to get new UCAs myself, that and the diffy spacers, they are about 1" spacers that drop the front differecial and along with the UCAs really bring the front to its level position. With this you can get about 3"s up front and add a 1" block to the rear, this is about the max before you get into a 4 to 5 inch which requires much more work. Some day but mine fits in the garage with a Yakima rack on the cap leaving about 2"s to spare, the garage is more important than another inch and a half.

This is a RC key lift with spacers, 285 65 20s. It sits about an inch high in the rear but for the most part is level. The bolts are in the factory position, the lift was from the keys. Rear is stock.

I did keys and spacers and mine does not look like this at all, I go to the sand dunes a lot and it's bumpy and I don't hit. It looks like they went over two inches to me, I would back them down and see how much it changes. UCAs are an easy swap all you can't do is align it. I have 40k on my truck and there have been no problems and the ride is just like stock. I think I went 1.5 on mine.

It's a joke, I used one and it was a total pain in the butt, had to wait 3 hours, the monkey tech got grease all over the door, floor mat and hood, tried to fix a recall and stripped a bolt. Never again, I want to see what they do. Said they rotated the tires but clearly didn't, I had marked the inside so they wouldn't screw that up and they were in the same place. You get what you pay for.

Your bar blends with the truck and looks like an extension of the cab, it looks good but the black on white sticks out like a sore thumb. Like said the darker color body works, remember the chrome "roll" bars from the 80s....same problem, just a rusty 3 piece eye sore. This does look good on your truck, I'm a cap guy as long as it's cab high and looks like an extension of the truck.

Your right, the 2020 looks horrible, the hood drops to nothing, not like the 19 and under, the round fender wheel openings look like a suburban. The square body rules, don't make a truck look like an SUV. I want a big fat front with a big tall grill, its exactly why I went from an F250 to the GMC. Sorry GM, you just don't get it, if I want a Tahoe I'll buy one, if I want a truck it better look like one.

It's cheap plastic, it will most likely crack the whole piece....but if it does its a good excuse to get the chrome piece. Now the bumper is plenty strong and has a nonskid pad to stand on, not really deep for a full foot but it does work, just be careful, if you slip off of it your shin or knee will hit it. I have used the tow hook before but it's a tight fit.

I have the Recon lights and there are no holes except a few screw holes. They have been up there for 4 years with not a single problem. They are brighter too. I would not punch holes in the roof.

The middle is the only difference, you may have a subwoofer that may need to be relocated. I have the middle seat, the best part is being able to pass thru and the middle seat bottom is a big lockable storage box. That and the top box makes it really nice. In the top box are 2 USB ports and a 12v plug so there is wiring there too. I'm sure it can be done but it may cost a lot.

I Get it, we are still a ways away from pollen but I know what you mean, it can really mess things up. Its always nice to see a cloud of pollen blow up over your hood. ?

Nice story is right. Sorry but this whole story doesnt add up...

You said "now it's yellow". I'm not seeing any yellow.

Just take your time, I taped a line a little lower than I wanted then finished it off taking a little at a time, you can always take too little and work your way to where you want but you can't add material if you go too far. I used a file and a sander to get to my final line and got a nice even smooth line.

Interesting, I would have thought you didn't need them too based on the advertised extra length, the picture tells it all, I hope you saw this before you installed them. I Added them to my stock shocks but I wouldn't have if I bought the Bilsteins, especially since it said I wouldn't need them. Thanks for the info, I am about ready for new shocks and these were the ones I was thinking of, I most likely wouldn't have put them back on,, now I know better. Im thinking of adding new upper control arms so I can get another inch or so and not eat my ball joints up, i put new keys in, spacers and cranked the TBs up but I want a little more, as it sits now I get a little knocking when I'm on the dunes at Silver Lake, its not bad but if I tried to get another inch I'm sure they would hit pretty hard, I would add the diffy spacers to keep the axle angles correct also.....then more more more...it never ends, I always seem to want more lift once I get started and when you go to Silver Lake as often as I do you really feel small next to all the lifted trucks.? like these...mine is the GMC, the Fords have 8"s of lift.

Save the hardware, instal the top first so you are pushing up to collapse the shock if nitro charged as they will open up once the band us cut, I would not cut the band until the top is mounted or they will be constantly trying to push up. It's a lot easier to mount the front with the tire off but not a must. You may want to instal spacers now if you plan on cranking the torsion bars to level it, they are 1/2 inch pucks that instal at the top of the front shock, 4 are needed. Make sure everything is tight. Should be an easy job if the fasteners are not rusted bad. Maybe have some new ones for the top on hand but the bottoms are usually fine.