Distributor Static Timing V6 4.3 2000

[Willslimo]

Chevy S-10 2000 Vortec V6

I have been a mechanic for 40 years, and now I feel like an idiot. I am trying to install a distributor into an engine that has been rotated after the distributor was removed. I am trying to position the number 1 cylinder at TDC (top dead center) so I can installed and time the distributor to fire number1 at this position. After close inspection, I notice there are 2 notches (timing mark indicators) cut in the harmonic balancer (with no numbers or letters btdc/atdc) and I know that timing is electronically controlled via the ECM. However, to install the distributor correctly,which one of these marks represents the number 1 cylinder position and what the heck do you align it with? the notched pointer on the engine front camshaft cover or with the crankshaft pickup.I am aware of the check pressure stroke on number 1 with plug out and using a thumb or gauge in the spark plug hole but how do you know when the piston reaches exactly TDC? The Haynes manual is totally worthless in outlining repairs on this engine!

[KENNHON]

Chevy S-10 2000 Vortec V6

I have been a mechanic for 40 years, and now I feel like an idiot. I am trying to install a distributor into an engine that has been rotated after the distributor was removed. I am trying to position the number 1 cylinder at TDC (top dead center) so I can installed and time the distributor to fire number1 at this position. After close inspection, I notice there are 2 notches (timing mark indicators) cut in the harmonic balancer (with no numbers or letters btdc/atdc) and I know that timing is electronically controlled via the ECM. However, to install the distributor correctly,which one of these marks represents the number 1 cylinder position and what the heck do you align it with? the notched pointer on the engine front camshaft cover or with the crankshaft pickup.I am aware of the check pressure stroke on number 1 with plug out and using a thumb or gauge in the spark plug hole but how do you know when the piston reaches exactly TDC? The Haynes manual is totally worthless in outlining repairs on this engine!

 

Don't feel bad--- i have 50 yearsworking on mostly chevies--- i have the same prob. on a '96 454 duallie... dist. gears sheared off[mobil one]after 130,000 miles... engine 'moved' because of viper remote start when dist. was out.[my fault]. i have given up.... i installed it first with out upper manifold[which is a small pain. i set dist. with #1 at TDC[my eng. only has one mark---- i would think your "First mark" would be 10 degrees BEFORE TDC, and the 2nd would be TDC???]

 

When the engine started it back-fired, idled POORLY, would NOT raise RPM no matter how much throttle!... the replies here said i was one tooth off.... my manifold is much more an obstruction[and the dist. is a piece of JUNK!!!!!!!!].. hope yours is better!...i would go for the 2nd mark as TDC... make sure u have rotor fully seated--- pointing at No.1 cyl. and see what happens... i would be appreciative as to what happens. I AGREE about Haynes---WORTHLESS... i have quit working on this[i will give the GM engineer a one-way ticket to Paradise for his design work on this -they only made them this way for 4 years!]... i got a Assembly/shop manual coming---bought them on ebay. When they come i'll let ya know wht they say

[minibike132]

Chevy S-10 2000 Vortec V6

I have been a mechanic for 40 years, and now I feel like an idiot. I am trying to install a distributor into an engine that has been rotated after the distributor was removed. I am trying to position the number 1 cylinder at TDC (top dead center) so I can installed and time the distributor to fire number1 at this position. After close inspection, I notice there are 2 notches (timing mark indicators) cut in the harmonic balancer (with no numbers or letters btdc/atdc) and I know that timing is electronically controlled via the ECM. However, to install the distributor correctly,which one of these marks represents the number 1 cylinder position and what the heck do you align it with? the notched pointer on the engine front camshaft cover or with the crankshaft pickup.I am aware of the check pressure stroke on number 1 with plug out and using a thumb or gauge in the spark plug hole but how do you know when the piston reaches exactly TDC? The Haynes manual is totally worthless in outlining repairs on this engine!

 

Don't feel bad--- i have 50 yearsworking on mostly chevies--- i have the same prob. on a '96 454 duallie... dist. gears sheared off[mobil one]after 130,000 miles... engine 'moved' because of viper remote start when dist. was out.[my fault]. i have given up.... i installed it first with out upper manifold[which is a small pain. i set dist. with #1 at TDC[my eng. only has one mark---- i would think your "First mark" would be 10 degrees BEFORE TDC, and the 2nd would be TDC???]

 

When the engine started it back-fired, idled POORLY, would NOT raise RPM no matter how much throttle!... the replies here said i was one tooth off.... my manifold is much more an obstruction[and the dist. is a piece of JUNK!!!!!!!!].. hope yours is better!...i would go for the 2nd mark as TDC... make sure u have rotor fully seated--- pointing at No.1 cyl. and see what happens... i would be appreciative as to what happens. I AGREE about Haynes---WORTHLESS... i have quit working on this[i will give the GM engineer a one-way ticket to Paradise for his design work on this -they only made them this way for 4 years!]... i got a Assembly/shop manual coming---bought them on ebay. When they come i'll let ya know wht they say

 

 

 

Forget the marks gentlemen, they will only mess you up. I find tdc with a screwdriver in the hole. IGNORE THE MARKS, neither one is tdc. the PCM will correct up to (don't quote me) 15 degrees. Exact tdc isn't necessary, a whole tooth off is going to put the piston quite a bit down from tdc and it isn't hard to tell the difference between tdc and a whole tooth differnce off of tdc. The hard part is getting the distributor to line up once you are there because as you both know it turns when you put it down.

 

Ken I can't believe you are still messing with this thing. I'll post it again. If this isn't getting you going you might have another issue but I am certian knowing what your history with this motor is you are a tooth off.

 

I can assure you exact TDC isn't as critical as you are thinking. As a matter of fact your thinking is a little backward. The reason there is no mark is that if you are close you are good enough for the pcm to make the corrections. The timing is alot more critical on one without computer controls. With this one either you are a tooth off or you are not, it's that simple. I can't post the manual but I'll give you a couple of highlights.

 

 

Straight from the manual, there is nothing real critical about exact TDC...

 

 

 

 

 

Bring cylinder number one piston to TDC (Top Dead Center) of the compression stroke.

 

 

Align the pre-drilled indent hole in the distributor driven gear with the white painted alignment line on the lower portion of the shaft housing.

 

Using a long screw driver, align the oil pump drive shaft in the engine with the mating drive tab at the end of the distributor shaft.

 

Once the distributor is fully seated, the rotor segment should be aligned with the pointer cast into the distributor base.

 

• The pointer has a (8) cast into it, indicating the distributor is for an eight cylinder engine.

 

 

• If the rotor segment does not come out within a few degrees of the pointer (8), the gear mesh between the distributor and the camshaft may be OFF by a tooth or more.

 

 

• If this is the case repeat this procedure to achieve the proper alignment.

 

 

 

Again, ignore the crank marks. They will only mess you up on anything put in a truck after 1994.

 

 

[Willslimo]

Thanks for the input......Rather than sticking a metal screwdriver inside a combustion chamber while rotating a crankshaft (scary) I opted to use a compression gauge to bring the #1 up on the compression stroke. As I did so, the second mark on the balancer approached the timing cover pointer. I aligned the mark with the pointer and checked the #1 valves position by manually rotating the push rods. Both spin easily indicating that the valves are completely closed and in the combustion ready position. Which is TDC to me (or very close), I installed the distributor and aligned the rotor to the number #1 tower terminal and dropped it in and bolted it down. Hopefully, it is back in time. By the way, it seems senseless NOT to mark the balancer (in reference to your book instructions) why mark it with 2 other marks that mean nothing? and then go thru the hassle of labeling the distributor shaft by pre drilling and adding a white mark and stamp> CRAZY engineers? maybe thats why GM is losing the automobile selling battle.I guarantee! that once I get my engine "IN TIME" I WILL MANUALLY MARK THE CORRECT ALIGNMENT REFERENCE LINE ON THE HARMONIC BALANCER WITH A CHISEL AND HAMMER FOR FUTURE REFERENCE

Chevy S-10 2000 Vortec V6

I have been a mechanic for 40 years, and now I feel like an idiot. I am trying to install a distributor into an engine that has been rotated after the distributor was removed. I am trying to position the number 1 cylinder at TDC (top dead center) so I can installed and time the distributor to fire number1 at this position. After close inspection, I notice there are 2 notches (timing mark indicators) cut in the harmonic balancer (with no numbers or letters btdc/atdc) and I know that timing is electronically controlled via the ECM. However, to install the distributor correctly,which one of these marks represents the number 1 cylinder position and what the heck do you align it with? the notched pointer on the engine front camshaft cover or with the crankshaft pickup.I am aware of the check pressure stroke on number 1 with plug out and using a thumb or gauge in the spark plug hole but how do you know when the piston reaches exactly TDC? The Haynes manual is totally worthless in outlining repairs on this engine!

 

Don't feel bad--- i have 50 yearsworking on mostly chevies--- i have the same prob. on a '96 454 duallie... dist. gears sheared off[mobil one]after 130,000 miles... engine 'moved' because of viper remote start when dist. was out.[my fault]. i have given up.... i installed it first with out upper manifold[which is a small pain. i set dist. with #1 at TDC[my eng. only has one mark---- i would think your "First mark" would be 10 degrees BEFORE TDC, and the 2nd would be TDC???]

 

When the engine started it back-fired, idled POORLY, would NOT raise RPM no matter how much throttle!... the replies here said i was one tooth off.... my manifold is much more an obstruction[and the dist. is a piece of JUNK!!!!!!!!].. hope yours is better!...i would go for the 2nd mark as TDC... make sure u have rotor fully seated--- pointing at No.1 cyl. and see what happens... i would be appreciative as to what happens. I AGREE about Haynes---WORTHLESS... i have quit working on this[i will give the GM engineer a one-way ticket to Paradise for his design work on this -they only made them this way for 4 years!]... i got a Assembly/shop manual coming---bought them on ebay. When they come i'll let ya know wht they say

 

 

 

Forget the marks gentlemen, they will only mess you up. I find tdc with a screwdriver in the hole. IGNORE THE MARKS, neither one is tdc. the PCM will correct up to (don't quote me) 15 degrees. Exact tdc isn't necessary, a whole tooth off is going to put the piston quite a bit down from tdc and it isn't hard to tell the difference between tdc and a whole tooth differnce off of tdc. The hard part is getting the distributor to line up once you are there because as you both know it turns when you put it down.

 

Ken I can't believe you are still messing with this thing. I'll post it again. If this isn't getting you going you might have another issue but I am certian knowing what your history with this motor is you are a tooth off.

 

I can assure you exact TDC isn't as critical as you are thinking. As a matter of fact your thinking is a little backward. The reason there is no mark is that if you are close you are good enough for the pcm to make the corrections. The timing is alot more critical on one without computer controls. With this one either you are a tooth off or you are not, it's that simple. I can't post the manual but I'll give you a couple of highlights.

 

 

Straight from the manual, there is nothing real critical about exact TDC...

 

 

 

 

 

Bring cylinder number one piston to TDC (Top Dead Center) of the compression stroke.

 

 

Align the pre-drilled indent hole in the distributor driven gear with the white painted alignment line on the lower portion of the shaft housing.

Using a long screw driver, align the oil pump drive shaft in the engine with the mating drive tab at the end of the distributor shaft.

Once the distributor is fully seated, the rotor segment should be aligned with the pointer cast into the distributor base.

• The pointer has a (8) cast into it, indicating the distributor is for an eight cylinder engine.

 

 

• If the rotor segment does not come out within a few degrees of the pointer (8), the gear mesh between the distributor and the camshaft may be OFF by a tooth or more.

 

 

• If this is the case repeat this procedure to achieve the proper alignment.

 

Again, ignore the crank marks. They will only mess you up on anything put in a truck after 1994.

 

 

 

[Willslimo]

OH bye the way, the whole idea of as you put it (I can assure you exact TDC isn't as critical as you are thinking. As a matter of fact your thinking is a little backward. The reason there is no mark is that if you are close you are good enough for the pcm to make the corrections. The timing is alot more critical on one without computer controls. With this one either you are a tooth off or you are not, it's that simple. I can't post the manual but I'll give you a couple of highlights.) This thought strategy is typical of the old false solution "close is good enough" (only in hand grenades and horseshoes my friend) How well would a computer (PCM) operate if that strategy was used in designing and building those units? Most everybody wants to believe and rely on that PCM or computer to do, or offset everything.....well call me old fashioned, but I have yet to see a computer with grease on it's hands and dirt underneath it's fingernails.

Thanks for the input......Rather than sticking a metal screwdriver inside a combustion chamber while rotating a crankshaft (scary) I opted to use a compression gauge to bring the #1 up on the compression stroke. As I did so, the second mark on the balancer approached the timing cover pointer. I aligned the mark with the pointer and checked the #1 valves position by manually rotating the push rods. Both spin easily indicating that the valves are completely closed and in the combustion ready position. Which is TDC to me (or very close), I installed the distributor and aligned the rotor to the number #1 tower terminal and dropped it in and bolted it down. Hopefully, it is back in time. By the way, it seems senseless NOT to mark the balancer (in reference to your book instructions) why mark it with 2 other marks that mean nothing? and then go thru the hassle of labeling the distributor shaft by pre drilling and adding a white mark and stamp> CRAZY engineers? maybe thats why GM is losing the automobile selling battle.I guarantee! that once I get my engine "IN TIME" I WILL MANUALLY MARK THE CORRECT ALIGNMENT REFERENCE LINE ON THE HARMONIC BALANCER WITH A CHISEL AND HAMMER FOR FUTURE REFERENCE

Chevy S-10 2000 Vortec V6

I have been a mechanic for 40 years, and now I feel like an idiot. I am trying to install a distributor into an engine that has been rotated after the distributor was removed. I am trying to position the number 1 cylinder at TDC (top dead center) so I can installed and time the distributor to fire number1 at this position. After close inspection, I notice there are 2 notches (timing mark indicators) cut in the harmonic balancer (with no numbers or letters btdc/atdc) and I know that timing is electronically controlled via the ECM. However, to install the distributor correctly,which one of these marks represents the number 1 cylinder position and what the heck do you align it with? the notched pointer on the engine front camshaft cover or with the crankshaft pickup.I am aware of the check pressure stroke on number 1 with plug out and using a thumb or gauge in the spark plug hole but how do you know when the piston reaches exactly TDC? The Haynes manual is totally worthless in outlining repairs on this engine!

 

Don't feel bad--- i have 50 yearsworking on mostly chevies--- i have the same prob. on a '96 454 duallie... dist. gears sheared off[mobil one]after 130,000 miles... engine 'moved' because of viper remote start when dist. was out.[my fault]. i have given up.... i installed it first with out upper manifold[which is a small pain. i set dist. with #1 at TDC[my eng. only has one mark---- i would think your "First mark" would be 10 degrees BEFORE TDC, and the 2nd would be TDC???]

 

When the engine started it back-fired, idled POORLY, would NOT raise RPM no matter how much throttle!... the replies here said i was one tooth off.... my manifold is much more an obstruction[and the dist. is a piece of JUNK!!!!!!!!].. hope yours is better!...i would go for the 2nd mark as TDC... make sure u have rotor fully seated--- pointing at No.1 cyl. and see what happens... i would be appreciative as to what happens. I AGREE about Haynes---WORTHLESS... i have quit working on this[i will give the GM engineer a one-way ticket to Paradise for his design work on this -they only made them this way for 4 years!]... i got a Assembly/shop manual coming---bought them on ebay. When they come i'll let ya know wht they say

 

 

 

Forget the marks gentlemen, they will only mess you up. I find tdc with a screwdriver in the hole. IGNORE THE MARKS, neither one is tdc. the PCM will correct up to (don't quote me) 15 degrees. Exact tdc isn't necessary, a whole tooth off is going to put the piston quite a bit down from tdc and it isn't hard to tell the difference between tdc and a whole tooth differnce off of tdc. The hard part is getting the distributor to line up once you are there because as you both know it turns when you put it down.

 

Ken I can't believe you are still messing with this thing. I'll post it again. If this isn't getting you going you might have another issue but I am certian knowing what your history with this motor is you are a tooth off.

 

I can assure you exact TDC isn't as critical as you are thinking. As a matter of fact your thinking is a little backward. The reason there is no mark is that if you are close you are good enough for the pcm to make the corrections. The timing is alot more critical on one without computer controls. With this one either you are a tooth off or you are not, it's that simple. I can't post the manual but I'll give you a couple of highlights.

 

 

Straight from the manual, there is nothing real critical about exact TDC...

 

 

 

 

 

Bring cylinder number one piston to TDC (Top Dead Center) of the compression stroke.

 

 

Align the pre-drilled indent hole in the distributor driven gear with the white painted alignment line on the lower portion of the shaft housing.

Using a long screw driver, align the oil pump drive shaft in the engine with the mating drive tab at the end of the distributor shaft.

Once the distributor is fully seated, the rotor segment should be aligned with the pointer cast into the distributor base.

• The pointer has a (8) cast into it, indicating the distributor is for an eight cylinder engine.

 

 

• If the rotor segment does not come out within a few degrees of the pointer (8), the gear mesh between the distributor and the camshaft may be OFF by a tooth or more.

 

 

• If this is the case repeat this procedure to achieve the proper alignment.

 

Again, ignore the crank marks. They will only mess you up on anything put in a truck after 1994.

 

 

 

 

[minibike132]

OH bye the way, the whole idea of as you put it (I can assure you exact TDC isn't as critical as you are thinking. As a matter of fact your thinking is a little backward. The reason there is no mark is that if you are close you are good enough for the pcm to make the corrections. The timing is alot more critical on one without computer controls. With this one either you are a tooth off or you are not, it's that simple. I can't post the manual but I'll give you a couple of highlights.) This thought strategy is typical of the old false solution "close is good enough" (only in hand grenades and horseshoes my friend) How well would a computer (PCM) operate if that strategy was used in designing and building those units? Most everybody wants to believe and rely on that PCM or computer to do, or offset everything.....well call me old fashioned, but I have yet to see a computer with grease on it's hands and dirt underneath it's fingernails.

 

Thanks for the input......Rather than sticking a metal screwdriver inside a combustion chamber while rotating a crankshaft (scary) I opted to use a compression gauge to bring the #1 up on the compression stroke. As I did so, the second mark on the balancer approached the timing cover pointer. I aligned the mark with the pointer and checked the #1 valves position by manually rotating the push rods. Both spin easily indicating that the valves are completely closed and in the combustion ready position. Which is TDC to me (or very close), I installed the distributor and aligned the rotor to the number #1 tower terminal and dropped it in and bolted it down. Hopefully, it is back in time. By the way, it seems senseless NOT to mark the balancer (in reference to your book instructions) why mark it with 2 other marks that mean nothing? and then go thru the hassle of labeling the distributor shaft by pre drilling and adding a white mark and stamp> CRAZY engineers? maybe thats why GM is losing the automobile selling battle.I guarantee! that once I get my engine "IN TIME" I WILL MANUALLY MARK THE CORRECT ALIGNMENT REFERENCE LINE ON THE HARMONIC BALANCER WITH A CHISEL AND HAMMER FOR FUTURE REFERENCE

Chevy S-10 2000 Vortec V6

I have been a mechanic for 40 years, and now I feel like an idiot. I am trying to install a distributor into an engine that has been rotated after the distributor was removed. I am trying to position the number 1 cylinder at TDC (top dead center) so I can installed and time the distributor to fire number1 at this position. After close inspection, I notice there are 2 notches (timing mark indicators) cut in the harmonic balancer (with no numbers or letters btdc/atdc) and I know that timing is electronically controlled via the ECM. However, to install the distributor correctly,which one of these marks represents the number 1 cylinder position and what the heck do you align it with? the notched pointer on the engine front camshaft cover or with the crankshaft pickup.I am aware of the check pressure stroke on number 1 with plug out and using a thumb or gauge in the spark plug hole but how do you know when the piston reaches exactly TDC? The Haynes manual is totally worthless in outlining repairs on this engine!

 

Don't feel bad--- i have 50 yearsworking on mostly chevies--- i have the same prob. on a '96 454 duallie... dist. gears sheared off[mobil one]after 130,000 miles... engine 'moved' because of viper remote start when dist. was out.[my fault]. i have given up.... i installed it first with out upper manifold[which is a small pain. i set dist. with #1 at TDC[my eng. only has one mark---- i would think your "First mark" would be 10 degrees BEFORE TDC, and the 2nd would be TDC???]

 

When the engine started it back-fired, idled POORLY, would NOT raise RPM no matter how much throttle!... the replies here said i was one tooth off.... my manifold is much more an obstruction[and the dist. is a piece of JUNK!!!!!!!!].. hope yours is better!...i would go for the 2nd mark as TDC... make sure u have rotor fully seated--- pointing at No.1 cyl. and see what happens... i would be appreciative as to what happens. I AGREE about Haynes---WORTHLESS... i have quit working on this[i will give the GM engineer a one-way ticket to Paradise for his design work on this -they only made them this way for 4 years!]... i got a Assembly/shop manual coming---bought them on ebay. When they come i'll let ya know wht they say

 

 

 

Forget the marks gentlemen, they will only mess you up. I find tdc with a screwdriver in the hole. IGNORE THE MARKS, neither one is tdc. the PCM will correct up to (don't quote me) 15 degrees. Exact tdc isn't necessary, a whole tooth off is going to put the piston quite a bit down from tdc and it isn't hard to tell the difference between tdc and a whole tooth differnce off of tdc. The hard part is getting the distributor to line up once you are there because as you both know it turns when you put it down.

 

Ken I can't believe you are still messing with this thing. I'll post it again. If this isn't getting you going you might have another issue but I am certian knowing what your history with this motor is you are a tooth off.

 

I can assure you exact TDC isn't as critical as you are thinking. As a matter of fact your thinking is a little backward. The reason there is no mark is that if you are close you are good enough for the pcm to make the corrections. The timing is alot more critical on one without computer controls. With this one either you are a tooth off or you are not, it's that simple. I can't post the manual but I'll give you a couple of highlights.

 

 

Straight from the manual, there is nothing real critical about exact TDC...

 

 

Bring cylinder number one piston to TDC (Top Dead Center) of the compression stroke.

 

 

Align the pre-drilled indent hole in the distributor driven gear with the white painted alignment line on the lower portion of the shaft housing.

 

Using a long screw driver, align the oil pump drive shaft in the engine with the mating drive tab at the end of the distributor shaft.

 

Once the distributor is fully seated, the rotor segment should be aligned with the pointer cast into the distributor base.

 

• The pointer has a (8) cast into it, indicating the distributor is for an eight cylinder engine.

 

 

• If the rotor segment does not come out within a few degrees of the pointer (8), the gear mesh between the distributor and the camshaft may be OFF by a tooth or more.

 

 

• If this is the case repeat this procedure to achieve the proper alignment.

 

 

 

Again, ignore the crank marks. They will only mess you up on anything put in a truck after 1994.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ok, you are old fashioned . Just kidding, actually that part is a quote from something I copied from a previous thread where kennhon was looking for TDC down to the millimeter and was very insistant that BECAUSE this vehicle was computer controlled that it was absolutely critical to get exactly TDC. It is less critical on a vehicle with computer controls. The one he was working on had a non adjustable distributor, once in it's in. That means either you are off a tooth or not. It wasn't critical for him to be tdc right down to where the mark should be, one or two degrees will make no difference at all. If yours isn't adjustable this goes for yours too. If you have an adjustable one then it's a little more critical.

 

If you search his threads you can see the one I am talking about.