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Picked it up a few months ago, and have been slowing changing it up to make it my own. I bought it with a 6" Procomp lift already installed by the previous owner, and it had right at 9000 miles. He had a set of black wheels installed, and a set of AMP power running boards. Since then, I've debadged the majority of the truck, bought new wheels and tires, painted all the chrome on the front end, and cleared the headlights. I plastidipped the rear bumper black until I paint that red as well. Just a lot of minor things added up to make a big difference. When I picked it up off eBay: And how it sits today after the wheel swap:

Looking forward to pics and motivation [emoji106]

Pulled the video Still shot of the rock Ryan

2014 GMC Sierra SLT Z60 Cobalt Blue with 22” GMC Rims.

I ran several tanks over two months with 93 and saw absolutely no difference from 87. Now I stick with 87 and save ~$10 a tank.

Well emblems came in Gonna black em out tomorrow. My Current Setup,2014 Silverado 2LT Z71,RCX 2.5 Level Kit,NittoTerra 33x12.50R20Lt's,Fuel - Octane D509 20x9 -12 Offset,All Chrome Plasti-Diped My Up Coming Mod's,McGhauphy's 7"-9" Economy Lift Kit,Federal Couragia M/T's 35x12.50R20Lt's,OEM Tow Mirror's,Bushwaker OE Fender Flairs,Gtr Lighting Led Conversion Kit's 2,200 Lumen(High,Low,Fog),Black Spyder Venom Bull Bar,Iron Cross HD Step's.

Squeaky clean inside and out! Next up are the valve cover gaskets and cleaning the engine bay.

More info and pics on the truck: http://www.socalsupertrucks.com/gallery.aspx?src=slides.php&pointer=1248&ref=113&oref=2#.VRHrxsso7qA

22878806

I have multiple chips that I need to get taken care of. I will so once I get my other truck some new tires and get it to pass inspection

I wanted to pass on some information on 2014 GMC/Chevy paint defects. Just got my truck back from being repainted under factory warranty. I have read some post here that says watch who you take it to but I had my done at GMC Dealership with no problems and they also gave me a lifetime warranty on the paint. Who ever you take it too make sure they give you a lifetime warranty or I would suggest taking it to another GMC/Chevy dealership with a good body shop that does give warranty, they aren't hard to find. It doesn't matter what GMC/Chevy dealership you take it to because it is covered under new truck warranty since it is a defect on 2014 trucks, they have to fix it. I had all 4 doors and both rear quarter panels repainted. Good luck on who ever has to deal with this. http://s300.photobucket.com/user/philwhall/library/After%20repaint%20of%20factory%20paint%20defect I have done almost all modifications for now....waiting on wearing tires out to put 35" on.

Drove a little more this morning, about 10 miles or so. I took the truck to my local shop for an alignment. I was driving pretty cautiously, carefully listing for clunks and the like (didn't hear anything). From what I can tell, the truck seems overall a lot better planted on the road. Rides nice on smooth roads and handles the bigger bumps and crappy roads A LOT better. I am definitly happy with the install.

Yup read that on Mike1220's build thread. That's what he did. Maybe I'll try it next time I plasti dip something. Looking good though!!

So got my emblems, home an 10 coats of plasti dip on them, good trick to get a good even an clean spray is too put the can of dip in a cup or bucket of hot tap water. I think they have turned out beautiful. Here's the size of emblem as well for Yall looking to order them My Current Setup,2014 Silverado 2LT Z71,RCX 2.5 Level Kit,NittoTerra 33x12.50R20Lt's,Fuel - Octane D509 20x9 -12 Offset,All Chrome Plasti-Diped My Up Coming Mod's,McGhauphy's 7"-9" Economy Lift Kit,Federal Couragia M/T's 35x12.50R20Lt's,OEM Tow Mirror's,Bushwaker OE Fender Flairs,Gtr Lighting Led Conversion Kit's 2,200 Lumen(High,Low,Fog),Black Spyder Venom Bull Bar,Iron Cross HD Step's.

Both of my last two Chevy's did this from the day they were bought to the day I sold them over 100k miles. The sound is normal and won't cause an issue.

Well that didn't take long at all N Fab contacted the autopatrs store I purchesed the step bars from Should have new bars in a couple of days Excellent customer service Very Happy

Glock 19 most of the time Glock 42 a little bit Glock 22 at work Glock 34 in competition I might be a little biased.

I hate when you green truck guys post [emoji20] I was aggravated when I saw that color for the first time in person cause I already bought my WDT truck and I fell inlove with that green. Not gonna lie, any video game I've played that you could customize a vehicle, I've had at least 1 car with that color on it. I have GTAV for Xbox360 and I have like 3 or 4 vehicles (2 are trucks) and they have that dark green color.

GM Part#23465289 Got em at the dealer An no big deal mike. My Current Setup,2014 Silverado 2LT Z71,RCX 2.5 Level Kit,NittoTerra 33x12.50R20Lt's,Fuel - Octane D509 20x9 -12 Offset,All Chrome Plasti-Diped My Up Coming Mod's,McGhauphy's 7"-9" Economy Lift Kit,Federal Couragia M/T's 35x12.50R20Lt's,OEM Tow Mirror's,Bushwaker OE Fender Flairs,Gtr Lighting Led Conversion Kit's 2,200 Lumen(High,Low,Fog),Black Spyder Venom Bull Bar,Iron Cross HD Step's.

89. These engines have to high of a compression ration to run the cheap stuff.

Every time I sprayed it I estimated 30 seconds (by counting to 31 cos I tend to count seconds fast..) and would wait until I heard the engine rev down a bit, maybe 5-10 seconds, then repeat. I ran about 2 minutes worth of spray into the engine in my case. The can's probably 40% left honestly. At first I didn't notice a difference, which is kind of weird, I mean there was a slight one as I started to drive home from the salvage yard but it didn't really pick up until the 2nd time I drove it and I was very surprised. I wish it drove like that all the time. So a catch can will help prevent this? I'm also wondering if a better fuel filter/"cleaner" fuel will help? Seems like the valves are getting washed in fuel right?

Those are lift kits that come with spindles to correct geometry. I wouldn't call that a spindle lift. But tomayto, tomahto, you know? Who cares. This is what I'm referring to, for example. http://cstsuspension.com/2014-1500-2wd-pick-up/206-spindle-kit-2014-1500-2wd-p-u-35-55-front-only.html

That must have been you that I heard that from. Why did he recommend 89? Was it due to what he was seeing via engine knock sensors? My thoughts are that perhaps it was with 87 he saw some knock retarding happening while 89 was just enough to avoid it and 92+ wasn't necessary?

It's a good color

Just picked up the Rainforest Green!

295/55/20 ATII is 32.8x12.2x20 according to toyo's specs. 285/55/20 is officially 33x11.5x20 for some brands, of which i've only seen the trail grappler and ATZ P3 in. I love the stock rims but don't want 20s. I honestly suggest for those wanting to run 12+ thick tires to just go ahead and invest in a rim with 0-12mm offset so you can do so without worry. http://toyotires.com/tire/pattern/open-country-at-ii-on-off-road-all-terrain-tires?cat=10

On stock 20's you'll be rubbing the upper control arms and sway bars at full lock with a 305(12.5") wide tire. I have stock 20's with 295/55r20(33x11.5) Toyo AT2 Xtreme tires that rubbed the UCA lock. I'm now running 8mm wheel spacers so my wheel offset is like a +19mm now, stock 20's are +27mm. That's the thickest you can go to remain a safe amount of wheel stud. They just clear the UCA now but I can still get them to touch if I crank the wheel to max in reverse. If you want ZERO rubbing on stock 20's a 285 is the widest you can go.

My OCD doesn't like it when they are anywhere. I've always asked the dealer to remove them…

Wow that is an awful placement for a dealer emblem

OK so.. maybe I still had some stuff in the system cos.. WOW.. I just went back out and took a ride in traffic. I was climbing a hill when someone was going to slow in my lane. I got over and went to pass and the truck HAULED past them! It even maintaned speed on cruise control up hill. It normally drops 2-3mph up a hill on cruise control! Later on on the ride home someone was lost and was going 36. They pulled over and I downshifted. In the length of their vehicle I went from 36 to 47! I was amazed. The truck feels lighter now. Cruising is easier, getting up to speed (so long as my transmission doesn't think shifting from 1 to 2 from a take off at 2mph is a great idea..) is easier. I recommend this! On one hand I feel amazed that its making this difference (about 1-1.5mpg too..) on the other.. I'm concerned that at only 31k miles I'm having to run a valve cleaner. This is the stuff I used: This is how I used it:

Finally stopped raining and is great spring day. Just put on new EGR matte black flares, EGR bodyside molding,black handles, and caps. Glad I saved caps and handles from my ruby silverado. Took off all chrome molding, handles, and mirror caps. Also took off the chrome assist steps too. Tired of all the chrome. Going to put on black NFAB bars in the morning or sometime this week. Busy day and tired. Later will be possibly a 4 inch lift and some kind of bumper replacements.

Usually an indicator of air in the system.

Please post what you find out, and the repair order when they figure it out. Thanks!

dbdave, there was some discussion about vents previously. My own opinion is that I don't see a vent being able to "pump" enough air to cause a pressure sensation in the passengers ears, even if it was flapping open/closed or something similar that this new high tech material does. I will say, however, that I suspect the "triple seals" that GM have used on these vehicles may be playing a role in why this particulay vehicle exhibits ear pressure when other SUV's don't. I personally observed that if I crack the front windows open ever so slightly, the ear pressure went away. I could still hear the fluttering (buffeting), but the ear pressure sensation went away. NOw, it's tricky to do because the windws only have express down mode so they want to go fully open and usually when you stop it, it's already and inch or more open - then, there is a bunch of wind noise so tought o hear much over that! But on one occasaion I was fast enough to crack the window about 1/4" and worked well to eliminate the ear pressure. Booming and droning sounds are nothing new to the automotive industry. As I've noted before, there are over 1000 Technical Publications in SAE alone on the topic. There are numerous causes and numerous cures. Even GM address "drone" and "boom" in several TSB's that I have stumbled accross recently. Same with Ford. I suspect same with all of them. Don't forget the media release posted about the GMC Terrain, where it talked about the boom and drone - GM knows about it all too well. My daily driver is a 2009 Explorer, and since I've been dealing with the Yukon, I have noticed that it exhibits all the same boom and drone noises as the Yukon. It's another "body-on-frame" SUV; a shoe-box on wheels! HOWEVER, the difference is that it not not as severe. It only booms or drones when the road is really rough. And, even at it's worst, the droning does not seem to produce ear pressure. But let's face it - it's no where near as stiff and tightly sealed as the new generation GM Tahoe, Yukon and Suburban. Coincedence? Not likely. So why are these new GM SUV's so bad? I think everything GM has done to stiffen and lighten this vehicle, along with reducing noises and sealing the cabin, all have contributed to a vehicle that is "overly sensitive" to the dreaded "boom and drone" the industry has been dealing with for years. And, it is so bad that it creates ear pressure to boot! GM has their work cut out. They have to address the design for the next build, as well as figure out a fix for existing vehicles. My advise - hold off buying one until they getting it all sorted out.

I washed and waxed for the first time, did everything that had stone blue paint on! Looks great! Daisy can't wait to hop inside

The seat is only one of many issues with the redesigned silverado, out of all the ones I have owned this is the worst one, I would not buy it again. As for the seat, I'm waiting for the new seat rail kit to come in so they can attempt to fix it for the 4th time. The interior flat out sucks in this truck, from the mylink stereo to the doors and the dash rattling, it's just poor engineering all around. Stay away!

I have a 2014 1500 Seirra crew cab and have been experiencing the same drivers seat movement from 4000 miles on. Now I have 9000 miles and it is really getting annoying. I will notify the dealer when it goes in for an oil change about the issue. I hope there is a fix for it, and parts available. Not overly impressed with the amount of little quirks that I have been experiencing with the new truck. I am beginning to wish I hadn't traded in the 2000 K2500 crew cab on this one.

Instead of going into cab all the time to turn it on I could just hit lock unlock on fob and lights would go on in box

8700 miles in and my seat started moving. Mostly in low speed maneuvers such as parking lots, in and out of my driveway. I'll be hose clamping mine very shortly.

I had the seat TSB done last week. Too bad the tech who worked on my truck tore up the interior door panel, B pillar and door sill while taking the seat out. Now i'll be waiting weeks for those part to come in for them to have to take the seat back out to replace the B pillar trim. Sounds like the hose clamp way is the most stress free, easy and assured way to fix this problem.