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Taking off the RC 7.5 and Putting on the new Mcgaughys 7-9 lift with Cognito upper control arms today, will be done tomorrow! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Remember that your truck won’t have all the features/options that the cluster supports. So it gets custom programmed to work with your truck, your VIN, your features. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is like one of those "supposed" pictures of Big Foot / Sasquatch lol just kidding

2018 GMC 1500 Crew Cab SLT with 3.5" Superlift kit.

20x12 -44 offset Ballistic Rage 33x12.5 Toyo Open Country RT Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I heard the only real problems are the 7.5 by RCX , ur 5 inch should be good to go, but like u said if u go with a bigger lift for the 37s I would defiantly go with McGaughys. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, plan is to buy it then send it to the company mentioned on the last page to get it setup to work for my truck.

Hey Phil, I’m new to this site. I just bought a console for my 15 Silverado and I guess I need to buy your pnp harness. I need help with what ordering one. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks Paul

So, I buy the cluster from the dealer then send it to someone to program my mileage and my vin to it, then install it?

Hi Phil, you are the man! I have been reading all the help and information you have been sharing. Here's my current situation: Picked up a 2018 GMC Sierra SLT Z71 4X4 6.2l asked the dealership to install tow mirrors. They installed ones that do not fold...at all, not even manually. after reading and searching I think I know what I need to tell them... I would like do a DL3 to DQS swap. Mirror part numbers Driver: 84041609 Passenger: 84228892 Wiring Harness Driver: 2342727 Passenger: 23342716 Plug play and may need a BCM reprogram for the memory feature... Is that correct. Thank you in advance for helping a newb out.

Thanks! It rides great. 90% is highway use. It rides just a tad stiffer than stock. It does have the Superlift shocks in rear that came with the kit and a Hellwig 7886 rear anti-sway bar was added.

Iol, no you nailed it. I was going to get closer but I didn’t want to spook it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I took 2 things I would say were useless to me and made them useful Never left this unlocked so can’t use the USB, and never used this storage for anything more then safety glasses. Will work tell apples new update and I’ll have to replace the cord for the 100th time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

because the lift changes the angle of the uca and the ball joint is at the wrong angle. the new uca the end where the ball joint sits is angled to compensate for this

Anyone know if there is a fuse for the shutters? Or where it connects?. Maybe removing the harness completely might do the trick.

Ford's aspiration for the days before the fuel price spike (of 2005) is going to be their undoing and GM is playing it smart by not following them down that road. To me, GM seems to be following a strategy closer to that of Toyota: fuel efficiency first, performance 2nd, off-road worthiness last. It sucks that the Blazer isn't a RWD SUV but if it were, it'd be priced out of reach of most of the public. The 2020 Bronco is going to be equally overpriced and disappointing. Now that Ford is killing off their sedans, they'll need to compensate for their shift in CAFE average. The Bronco might have a low base price, but the stuff that 99% of buyers will expect as standard features will push the price well above $40k for a moderately sized SUV. The off-road worthiness will be disappointing and Ford will cut corners to keep weight+cost in check. The Bronco will easily hit $50k in the upper trim level.

The Train horns these are the dot approved actual sound of a real train, not that wimpy air horn most people get lol Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Figured I'd update this since it's been a hot minute. I've done a few exitint things since I last posted my favorite would have to be the hornblasters train horn kit, I currently have the truck in the shop getting all new inner and outer rockers welded in as well as cab supports and cab corners. One bedside is also being redone. About a month before it was dropped off for that I had new wheels and tires put on. I am currently building a new set of headlights for it. And will be going over a new stereo setup, exhaust, freshening up the drive train and painting the frame again. Here are some somewhat recent pics. Should have the truck back next week hopefully. It's been gone since early. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

One of the advantages of the 4.3 is they all come standard with the ability to run E85 if I am not mistaken.If you look at the sticker inside of your gas door it will indicate if the truck is E85 compatible or not.Not all gas stations carry the fuel but E85 compatible trucks can run on any mix between gas and E85 allowing it to be added to a tank at any given time.As the E85 content in the gas gets higher the vehicles computer is going to make the tuning progressively more aggressive

inners are welded in today need to weld the outers in and cab corners then paint and fix a bedside... hoping to be done next week

i've used those connectors in my truck - they work great!

Stop! You are wasting your money. I had the old 4.3 Vortec and I never *needed* more power, your truck is a rocket compared to my old one. If you want a faster truck, buy a truck with a bigger engine. You aren't saving any money buying a 4.3 truck and then putting money in it to mod it, and you sure as heck aren't saving money if you do an engine swap. If you've just got to mess with something, buy an old square body or earlier truck and mess with it. Keep the hood closed on your new truck and that way you'll always have something that will start and get you where you need to go.

I got my painted fender flares in today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You’re good, go get some rest, God Bless Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Paid it off.

Got the grille guard switched over from the 2017 Sierra to the 2018

Added to the family and took a really good picture with the truck Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

WOO HOO Now that is a deal! $238.18 for a complete console including shipping!!! Could care less about the wireless charging lid but whatever! Still stoked. http://www.ebay.com/itm/152684375008?_trksid=p2471758.m4703

Finished getting mine installed today. Not too bad at all and no more bouncing/rattling of the jump seat armrest. I just wired up the usb's/12v under the lid and the 110v/12v up front for now since I'll have to take it out while doing my audio install at which time I'll connect the light as well as the second 12v up front (Im going to see if I can disassemble the unused usb's up front so I can mount my bass knob there). Overall it was well worth it and and big thanks to all who contributed tips in this thread as without you guys I doubt I would have taken this on!

Big brown truck came late but I still have a couple more hours of daylight so I may tackle it tonight!

Ok guys, I just completed the console swap and it went flawless. I did the top plate that has the 2-12v and 1-3 port usb. I put the 110v in place of the 3 usb port. I still have the 2 usb ports/ 12v under the lid to utilize car play. I went this route so i didnt have to worry about the usb's not funtioning 100% up front, and frankly 2 usbs is plenty for me As far the wiring goes, not bad at all. I used the wire harness from the jump seat so almost everything was plug and play. I did have to solder the led light and the 12v on the backside of the console. Straight forward and easy to do. Youll nees to unravel some of the original harness to see what wires your working with I did not remove or loosen the passenger seat either. Yes it was tough to reach and unclip the connector but not horrible Anyways, couldnt be happier on the final result! This is not that hard to do. A few hours and just under $600 gets you a sweet OEM console Oh and my all leather jump seat is on ebay if anyone is interested

Phil any insight into this little light I stumbled across today? It comes on when you open the doors and fades out with the dome lights but does not illuminate with the dome light if you use to overhead switch. Is this connected to the factory puddle light circuit? OT but I find it kind of amusing the GM uses a warm white light for the door pockets(3500k), a neutral white for the cup holder illumination(4300k), and a noticeably cooler white for the dome lights(6000k)...