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4/6 does have a slight rake to it, it's no more than an inch difference front to back. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I'm at 4/6 and have never bottomed out. But I don't carry much in the bed with this truck either. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

My 37’s arrived today. All I can say is holy crap, I thought my 33’s were big! Still waiting on my fiberglass fenders to come in [emoji30] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Added some LED engine bay lights. Went with a sealed push button vs pressure switch (since I don't need a light every time I open the hood)

Like many of you, I was affected by the faulty high pressure a/c hose design on my 2014 Silverado. Fortunately for me it was only February in Texas and I barely needed it. Even more fortunately though, I still had 80 miles left on my CPO warranty so I didn't have to haggle with the dealer about repair costs. We'll see how long my condenser cooperates as I figure it's next to go on the A/C system. While my truck was in the shop the dealer loaned me a fully-loaded (of course) 2018 Sierra with a 5.3 for a day. Once I got over the Sierra having just about every bell and whistle my rig didn't have, I noticed just how good the acceleration was compared to my truck. So much so that I was convinced that GM had bumped the horsepower/torque ratings between 2014 and 2018. Once I verified that they hadn't, I went on a fact finding mission to figure out why this truck drove like a beast on acceleration while mine felt like a 4 cylinder. I had researched buying a pedal controller to see if that would help my lousy tip-in on acceleration but simply could not justify the cost. I did know that I was tired of the lackluster get-up-and-go of the first 1/3 of the pedal travel of my truck--especially after my experience with this peppy loaner. The first modification I made to my truck after buying it was to shim under the lower portion of the metal assembly that the accelerator pedal attaches to as I had been following this forum and knew it had been identified as a problem. I opted for using half of a clothespin which took 99% of the flex out of the pedal assembly, so I knew that was not my problem. Instead, I crawled under my loaner 2018 Sierra's dash and took a picture of the part number on the gas pedal assembly--it was GM# 23362231. Once I got my truck back, I peeked at the number on its pedal assembly and it was GM# 20972082. After some research I could not determine when this older number got superseded, but I knew if the price was right I'd buy the new part number and see if it helped my truck. I picked one up off a well known auction site for about $54 and installed it the day I got it. I waited almost two months to share this because I wanted to verify that it improved my acceleration for real and not just in my imagination. I can definitively say, for my truck, that the initial acceleration has improved noticeably. I will even go so far as to say that the low-speed transmission shifts that seemed to startle the truck into what I would call "panicked shifting" garbage-truck-style have improved about 80%. Once I get a my valves cleaned by a shop that has the BG cleaner I think it will accelerate like the 2018 I was loaned. The swap of the pedals is pretty simple. Two 10mm bolts on the lower left and upper right as shown in the attached picture. A 1/4 inch deep well socket with a small extension did the trick. The upper right bolt is a bit of a stretch but not too bad.I unplugged the old one and plugged in the new one and put the bolts back in. I did not do a side-by-side multi-meter test of these pedals to verify the voltages with pedal travel because I did not have an electrical diagram of the several contacts in the wiring harness connector on the pedals. I started to try and it was simply futile. So I just installed the new part and took it for a test drive. To repeat, the new GM Part Number is 23362231 and it worked for my 2014 Silverado with the 5.3. I hope that these results can be duplicated (and enjoyed) by you folks in the forum. I like my truck a lot better now since this "upgrade." If anyone else tries this, please report your results!

Ryan B.

Haha where I live it bad lol. My dad had a 08 Silverado crew cab lowered 4/6 and bottomed out a lot and I don't want to go through that this my truck lol Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Lower is better Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

angles are too high, rough country is notorious for bad angles on their lifts that knuckle doesnt look taller either its just modified to save balljoints from the terrible angles... good lord RC what next..

That's a nice truck! Do you have a full side shot of the truck? To be completely leveled I need to go 3/6 or 4/7 right? 4/6 looks to have some rake to it. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[emoji7][emoji7][emoji7] Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

https://www.amazon.com/VXDAS-EL-50448-Pressure-Monitor-Activation/dp/B072BK693N/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1533077938&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=el50448&dpPl=1&dpID=411B3l6HLZL&ref=plSrch Sorry it took so long. I paid just a tad less for mine because amazons prices always fluctuate.

Much better than the 2.5 angles! Nice! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Angles still aren't right, I just had this kit ripped out of my truck and swapped out for a 5", lift is trash and will cause you nothing but issues. All good if you plan on keeping the truck 2 years or less.

2015 LTZ Debadged Bilsteins set on 2.5 275/70/18

My 2014 had the shake from 73-80mph, it would be there some mornings and not others and then the ride home it may be there and it may not. I had Firestone Destination AT P275/55 R20 installed before i picked it up from the dealership new. I changed my tires out 2k miles ago to BFG KO2 275/55 R20 load range D and have not had the shake since. I think its something to do with the air flow/aerodynamics and the tire bounce from the P series tire excites it like a basket ball bouncing, i noticed the shake wouldnt be there if there was a side wind. This is just my evaluation over the last 4.5 years of owning it.

A little late, lifted it last week, waiting for my wheel well flares to get painted, so I can install them...

Lift, wheels, and tires. Now I need some steps to get into it!

Put Rhino Shine on my sprayed in bed liner, changed transfer case oil and rear diff oil. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Easy upgrade to the PML cover this afternoon, better cooling and more oil capacity (plus it looks sweet). Video coming soon on my channel.

Here are the lights - only $10 for 2 on Amazon: http://a.co/48H87qq Here is the switch I used: http://a.co/hGwJyGh I used self tapping sheet metal screws to mount the lights in the oval holes of the hood frame. They aren't quite big enough, so I had to slide them toward the inside edge. It was plenty strong to hold them in place, and they have a ton of clearance room. I fished the wires through that same hood frame to the fuse box side and connect it to the other light. I was initially going to tap into the fuse box for power, but couldn't get inside cleanly so I ran a wire directly to the battery along the firewall. I tapped a ground wire into the spare battery bracket. I haven't mounted the switch yet, but I'll probably just zip tie it to something with 3M tape on the back. It's not something I'm planning on using regularly, so for me it doesn't have to be super fancy - just accessible. I'm very happy with the light output though! And can't beat the $17 cost.

That truck looks like it could eat mine. Lol. So many cool mods, so few digits in my pay check. Haha.

Not my truck, but had a local member come by today to install Illuminated Door Handles. I bought his rear bumper from him some time ago. His truck is bad ass! Before: After: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

More info on these please. Where did you purchase them and how was the install? Thanks Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Has anyone noticed that "What have you done to your K2 today?" is on its ONE THOUSANDTH page?!?!? Congrats to "block8head" for starting it way back on Jan 15th, 2014.

Alright got my console removed. Wasn't that bad. Anyone else wanting to pull the console to add a sub this is what you need to do. 1. Lift the console lid and pry up the the console trim that holds the cup holders and outlets. I used a screwdriver and pried it at the locations below as seen on youtube videos. 2. With the trim removed there will be 2 10mm bolts exposed. Remove them. 3. Disconnect all the connectors on the trim piece as well as the larger harness and the brown USB harness behind the trim piece. 4. Remove the map pocket trim on either side of the console. They just pull straight out. You may have to move the seats around to get them completely out. With the map holders removed 1 bolt on either side will be exposed. 15mm I think. 5. Move your seats all the way forward and at the back on either side of the console near the carpet are 2 plastic cover. Pry them open from the back with a thin screwdriver. Behind the covers are 2 more 15mm bolts. Remove them. At this point you should be able to slide the console back. I had to lift mine up a bit but it should be completely free

And blacked out my chrome grill

All the parts for my next project arrived today!!! Going to be a fun Sunday!

Finally joined the forum. Been following this thread for awhile and just finished up installing a Belltech 3/4 on my 4wd truck. (struts, spindles, and a flip kit)

Ryan B.

Spent some time at Daytona this weekend.....

2014 chevy silverado 20 in rbp 94r wheels and 35's for the tires Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

The stock 20s are 8.5" wide. 295/55r20s will be just fine on them. I, and many other people are running 305/55r20s on them with no problems.

Is it really that big of a deal that you get water on your hood? I had to chuckle when I read this.

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