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So, I know you guys are slogging away in here trying to figure out the cheapest way to add Carplay/Android Auto to your trucks. I think, last night, I figured out THE most expensive way to go about it... The rebates and employee pricing discount I get through Cat were just too good. That, and I wasn't a big fan of the body styling on the '19. (and it has Carplay.)

Ended up buying the center console box off ebay with the kicker comp 8". I haven't sold my 10" single box that goes under the rear seat yet, but ebay had a 15% off coupon so I decided to buy it. Here's a few pics of the install. I haven't wired it to my amp yet cause I have to remove my backseat to get to it. It was a little hot outside today with a heat index of 108 so I'll finish tomorrow. It took me about an hour and a half to install cause I was taking a few water breaks. Here's a few pics of the console removed, the stock Bose sub, the new box with 8" sub next to the stock Bose, the 10" sub I removed compared to the others, and the new 8" installed before I put the console back in. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I was just starting to wade through the 45 pages, perhaps you can save me the trouble. Which pin does the stripe on the diode 'face', 10 or 22? *Edit* ...and I'm assuming it's still the same on an '18? Just traded my '14 in last night.

Yes that is it!

I just put this one in my 2018. This new number is about $60 cheaper than the one it replaced. Complete panel except air bag light, easily removed from the old one. Works great! https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-f-console-84391067

Mod #1 done. Thanks for reposting the pic too, @pgamboa

Once I start getting P/N's from people with 2015's of their modules that work without the swap I'll get on it. Until then, I've gotta wait.

I gotcha, Thank you

Phil- What is the diode in the gray plug for?

Yes - good for 2014-2018 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Someone needs to do up a spreadsheet. If you have X year truck you need y. If you have z truck you need yy, and so on lol.

Got it. Hopefully this saves someone from having to go back through 45 (at this point) pages of information.

Correct, come on with remote start as well.

Yep. This is the intended operation here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think you're doing what I wan to do. Fogs do not come on with DRL, come on with headlights, stay on with high beams? Correct?

Mine ring like two J-79s warming up before taxiing! LOL Even with the whine and loss of some sounds, they are getting more sensitive. Sounds contradictory but I do not know how else to explain it. Have yet to see a doctor about it, too many other problems.

No AUX input or USB media from the compartment hub when connected normally through the front hub. The compartment hub works 100% if connected directly to the HMI.

It is me . Please PM me for info. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thats what i dont want to do. Getting to old. I have an easier way. Im taking my truck to @Marv88 and letting him do it

One year anniversary with it so decided to finally make a profile. Enjoyed looking at all these photos when making my decision on what to do with mine. zone 2 inch leveling kit - nothing in the rear - 295/55R20 Cooper STT Pros with now 25,000 miles on them

After deciding the 2017 Colorado wasn't going to be enough to safely pull the TT we purchased, it was traded in for this 2018 DC, Z71, 5.3L and 3.42 rear end. The color choice was a compromise. All you married guys know about "compromise", right? AKA "yes dear". This is it, plain Jane. I added mud guards/flaps, spray in bed liner, Extang Encore Tonneau cover, running boards and towing mirrors. It came with the factory break controller.

I wonder sometimes if these Bridgestone's will ever wear out or become to hard to be safe. Eventually I guess...right? Sneaking up on 75,000 miles and I'm asking myself what more I could possible ask from a truck street tire and I honestly don't know. It's hard to know for a certainty what a different tire will do with all the differing opinions. I don't play nice with opinion and yet hard data is hard to come by unless you generate it yourself. I'm playing with my gauge pack installed on my phone and finally figured out the sound meter. It was kind of a big deal given the wind turbine noise regulations we have around here that seemed...a bit left field? No matter actually it was just the pointed stick I needed to give the device a harder look. Put 2 and 2 together and???? Yea, cabin noise.... Part of cabin noise is tire noise. Part is wind noise. Part is mechanical noise and part of it is how well the cabin insulates you from those noises. I needed a baseline so....we drive 55 mph, windows up unbroken blacktop generated a sound level of 69 db. Impressive. 60 mph and as before 72 db. Rough concrete 75 and 80 db. respectfully. Windows down 80 - 87 depending on how far down. Getting a bit noisy. Okay windows back up and hammer time. Intake and exhaust noise at the top of several gears comes in around 85 db. Pretty quite truck. Oh yes I tried the wife's Terrain with the Michelin's and got about the same numbers. Not enough difference to call a difference really. Of course the cabin is different and the insulation I expect a bit different but they are both stock and both at about the same noise levels. Sounds like a company target number. If I ever get my Buick back I'll give that a go. My ears say it's quitter but my ears said my truck was quitter than the wife's SUV too and I was wrong. My ears ring like Ma Bell. Quite is important as the sound in my head is amplified by ambient noises. Sound like a project some of the Audio guys might weigh in on...eh? I am not a sound engineer. If I needed something quieter I smothered it.

Is that the same truck in both pics?

Readylift 2.25" strut spacers and tubular upper control arms swap. Stock rear with stock 285-45/R22 Bridgestones (for now). Love the new stance and the ride is great. I had intended to use another company's relocation brackets for the magneride (Readylift doesn't make one) however after installation, the thicker tubular UCA but the sensors right back in the stock position. No relocation bracket needed. I couldn't be happier with the setup. Sent from my BBB100-1 using Tapatalk

Chrome trim removal on the doors. And all terrain bad taken off today. Much cleaner look! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I believe we focus hard on what heat does to the fluid and miss what heat does to operation and component life. Things such as seal hardening which happens regardless of the fluid you use. Plate slip (glazing). Plates burning up as well as seals burning up. Varnish and carbonizing are fluid related. These others...the goose has been cooked and it doesn't matter what oil it was cooked in. Peanut oil anyone? Those are heat related materials failures. The thermostat GM devised for the 6L80E is a odd bird. It hasn't a minimum flow to the cooler system thus relies on working the fluid to bring the system to heat. 192F is the beginning of the opening but it is over 203F before it is fully open. (I checked). It is also highly restrictive so even fully open it limits flow to the cooling system. They are crowding the component failure points especially for valve body piston and servo seals, to run the fluid to as low a heat related viscosity as possible to enhance fuel efficiency. Playing with a two headed rattlesnake. I'm a fuel efficiency sort of guy but not at the expense of component life. AS delivered and as I've mention numerous times my fluid temperatures were 200/225 F on warm days running. They spike higher during the hot soak that comes after shut down. Did you guys notice the trigger points James provided that GM has coded to the TMC? 266 F for FIVE seconds for a warning. (look at the chart). 270 F for ONE minute for the alarm? That should give you an indication of how much higher GM believes these so called "Synthetic" Group III fluids have pushed the oxidation limits. Not far. Use of a PAO or an Ester/PAO blend is prudent especially if your going to rely on the factory thermostat and single imbedded radiator cooler arrangement. I'm a belt and suspenders sort of fellow. I do both. It will save the oil but not the seals. They are ringing the alarm after the school burns down. Thus the coolers and lower stat settings. Last consideration. This chart is 'bulk oil temperature" in the pan. Temperatures in running components such as gear teeth and converter vanes are quite a bit higher. Under heavy loading one can burn a fluid even when the bulk oil temperatures are low enough to be considered safe. Your not going to hurt that box by running it colder than 175F. It has full 'normal' function anytime over 100F. Not that I'm saying that is the target. Just saying I'm not concerned if it's below 160 F as mine is. I like cushion. Your results may vary!!! Yea, it's two am and I am doing the can't sleep ramble.

TIS & Fury Combo Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Here's some info James from Wikipedia: In the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s, ATF contained whale oil as a friction modifier. But since whale oil would break down at higher temperatures, cars produced in the 1970s and later would not be able to use whale oil because of the higher engine coolant temperatures employed to reduce emissions and save fuel. A moratorium on whale oil at that time prevented the continued production of older ATF such as the original DEXRON formulation (Type B), and the Type A which preceded it. And at this point I need to make a clarification. I said: "The very term synthetic has been dumbed down so hard it hardly means anything today. It use to mean any lubricant not derived from mineral oil". That should read: It use to mean any lubricant not derived from a naturally occurring substance. PAO's are indeed a synthetic produced from Olefins which are manufactured from mineral oil but not naturally occurring thus....synthesized. It's kind of what the word means. When a Group III is hydrotreated the carbon bonds are fully filled. The new molecules however are also naturally occurring. I don't consider them a synthetic. Nothing has been synthesized. The deck was just shuffled after adding more aces and removing the duces. The Government disagrees and sides with the Oil Lobby. This muddies the water to the point you haven't a clue what's what unless the manufacture is forthcoming. I.E. Amsoil and Red Line don't mind telling you what the base stocks are thus...I use them. Mobil lied by omission thus I kick them to the curb. Anyway back to you James. Thank you for the specifics of your system. I figured you had to have at least one additional cooler. This gives me a tangible value for future work on this system. That is very helpful. Nick thanks for the breakdown. You've been very helpful.

Case in point: 2006: The new 6-speed transmission is great! 2014: That old 6-speed was junk! But the new 8-speed is great!! 2017: That old 8-speed was trash! But the new 10-speed is fantastic!!!

Yes, synthetics have been around a long time. Even before 1972. It is that AMSOIL was the first to market an API certified synthetic. No other manufacture at the time had an API certified one. AMSOIL's Signature Series is a group IV PAO, their OE and XL are group III. So the Signature Series ATF and ATL (dexron VI and HP) is a full PAO based synthetic, the OE, ATF and ATL are group III, thus the lower cost for these products.

2016 all terrain with Falken wild peak ATW3 275-60-20 33" On Raceline mamba HD 20 inch wheels, stock offset.

Seems like you just had a rough experience getting situated with new technology (like most adults do), because you're used to things being a certain way. I'm going to have to 100% disagree with JayChevy. I personally have owned a 2017 E-assist Silverado since last July (w/ 33" 10-ply tires). Before that was a 2016 LTZ z71 Midnight Edition. Before that was a 2014 Silverado LT. I back up into my parking spot every single time, as we're required for work. I've never had the engine shut off, unless I'm sitting on the brake for a significant amount of time like at a stop sign or stop light. Even drove a 2018 Malibu rental that had the start/stop tech in it, same thing, worked smoothly. It does take a day or so to get used to when it normally shuts off, but you pick up the timing pretty easily. The jumpseat portion is most likely true, but no one has actually tried. I do know that there are some fans under the jumpseat that cool the lithium battery, so it's most likely a no go. Also the seat for the jumpseat is actually longer in the E-assist models compared to other models. The engine's air intake is the only other option that you cannot modify without modifying where the coolant is located under the hood. They moved the coolant to right behind the radiator so you cannot put the standard MIT tube or CAI's there without modifying the tubing or moving the coolant to a different location. But don't forget, the LT E-assist comes with the 8-speed 5.3L setup, instead of the 5.3L 6 speed like ALL of the other LT/SLE models have. I also can jump start my truck's battery w/ my lithium battery. Pretty cool feature if you ask me. From my experience, I spent $30k on the truck out the door. Sold the stock wheels/tires, bought new wheels/tires, and re-installed all of my aftermarket parts from my 2016 Silverado (listed below). I'm currently at $37k with all my mods (including tires and wheels) and I've converted my truck into a LTZ basically w/ a ton of other add-ons. Way cheaper going this route than paying $45k for the upgraded models.

305/70R17 Toyo AT2's Method NV 17x8.5, 0 offset

I think I figured out what the plug is on the factory wiring harness. It's made by TE Connectivity: Plug - 2109441 Contact - 968857 Wire Seal - 828905 Empty hole plug- 828922 http://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=showdoc&DocId=Customer+Drawing%7F2109441%7FA2%7Fpdf%7FEnglish%7FENG_CD_2109441_A2.pdf%7F2-2109441-4

Finally did it and couldn't wait so here's some dirty truck pictures. I'll clean her up this weekend and post some good ones. Method NV 17" 0 offset with 295/70/17 Toyo R/T King 3.0 front, 2.5 rear, both with compression adjusters Mazzulla upper control arms SDHQ skid plate with tow hook cutouts It's everything it's supposed to be and more. Couldn't be happier. Ride is fantastic. Also sits dead level within 1/4" all around and no rubbing, no trimming.

Method NV 17x8.5 +0 Toyo RT 295/70/17 DSC00343 by Chris Minshall, on Flickr DSC00134 by Chris Minshall, on Flickr