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My truck had the oil cooler lines fail at 44,****** mi, luckily i found the drops in the driveway before it was catastrophic. The dealer said not under power train warranty due to "not a moving part", so I bought the lines for 130.00. It is a pain and very messy, but not too bad. BTW lighter fluid removes oil stains without scrubbing. first I removed the inner wheel liner on the passenger side, now i could see the connections to the cooler. Upper is accessible from the top. Be careful not to lose the clips, new lines reuse them Then I disconnected the block at the oil filter adapter and sensor The rubber lines in the middle do allow some movement, but not much, so I decided to remove the bumper for a direct shot.

Dealer did the TSB ATF change, no charge. Paperwork showed this to be a $371 fluid change to the Mobil fluid. Not enough miles yet to really tell but knowing it's done is priceless, lol.

The wheel bearing centers the axle in a sense. If the bearing is basically completely shot it could change the center and the axle will drop. That's just a guess.

Over the years I resist checking oil on trips or different locations. Like gas stations. If I do unless it’s over a qt low ( which is never) I call it good. The last time I forgot my own advice I drove myself crazy worrying about a half a qt low on my stick or more at random filling stations. After 3000 miles once home the next day. It was exactly at the same level when I left. If you see a leak or suspect you’re burning oil still following the over a qt low rule should apply. Otherwise you’ll drive yourself crazy. Pick a spot and use that spot when cold to get an exact measurement. Making sure your level.

I changed my oil at 800 miles. Now I have 2,600 and just checked the oil warm. Still at the top of the cross hatches.

I was in the mode of turning over every 3 years for minimal cost. My trade had great equity and GM/Dealers would have big discounts on end of model year trucks. Then Covid hit and here I am over 4 years later because inventory has been minimal, insanely priced new trucks, low supply, insane lead times on ordering, etc... The only benefit has been good trade values. I think the industry will change going forward. I'm seeing more higher trim level trucks on dealer lots now, which was not the case a year ago. The new car pricing is still MSRP (some places higher) for the most part, but I think that will go down as well as inventory stabilizes. The downside is the trade will likely go down with it a bit because of the surplus used car market. Anyway I'm looking to possibly get into a 23 LTZ at some point in the future with the right balance of lower new vehicle price and optimum trade value. I could maintain what I have, which has been great (2018 LTZ 5.3L 27K miles) but at some point down the road, you're stuck with a huge delta between trade value and new truck.

Doesn’t matter. Same SVG Amsoil used in all of them. You could look up the build list but your trail boss is equipped from factory same as rest of trail boss builds for driveline.

First Pass: 74 lb ft Second Pass: Loosen 270 degrees Third Pass: 74 lb ft Final Pass: 175 - 185 degrees

Or, vinyl is the other option. There is no OEM white emblem.

when i did my 2014 , i added the power fold switch and the mirrors worked. you only need the door harnesses if you want all the lights to work. i think the truck has to be a lt model or higher, wont work on work trucks

A bunch of people have cleaned their bow ties really well and used PlastiDip, in the color (or close to the color) of their truck. You could do the same for your GMCs on the grill and on the tailgate. The only ones that I have seen on the accessories website is black or gold bow ties.

I haven't experienced this issue but I had the TSB fix done a while ago. A friend experienced this on his 2016 Sierra and I mentioned the TSB. Dealer didn't even know about it, same as my Chevy dealer when I wanted it done prior to any potential issues. Everything was good for my friend after the TSB fix. https://www.tsbsearch.com/Chevrolet/21-NA-199 MC-10207911-9999.pdf

Typically the dog rides in the back and so far she hasnt noticed.

Thank you! I do want to add that my theory was correct. As soon as the temps dropped to freezing, I had the same issue. I pulled the fuse and tweeked the spades a little more than I had and sprayed them with silicone grease. Worked like a charm and no problems to date. That's what I predicted would happen. Validation is wonderful! Hope you guys had a great holiday!

There was a TSB that came out around 2016 ~ 2017 for the tranny flush and replacement with Mobil 1 Blue Strip I think it was. I had it done for tranny shudder problem which it fixed. It also reduced but did not eliminate low speed hard shift problem between 1st and 2nd. For some, torque converter replacement was necessary to eliminate shudder. About vibration problems; I not aware of any single fix for that. If you read back through the hundreds of posts you find the root cause blamed on virtually every part on the truck. I don’t think it was ever eliminated from this generation truck which is 2014 ~ 2020 or thereabouts.

Isn’t this a high mileage thread? Why are folks just posting their current mileage, being well under even 100k? my 2015 XL Denali has 117k on it. Trans was replaced at 14k , so it alone has about 100k on it.

Would like to share some pictures of where I ended up putting my aux switches at. I have one before picture. The rest is after. I didn’t like the idea of the switches being low on the knee panel. so I will be rewiring and hardwiring the full kit in. Cause this kit is really made for 2019 and up. My truck is a 2017 2500hd Denali diesel. So all my factory uplifted switches are spoken for all factory features.

Both Dealerships should have known better and the 'we'll try' story is dealership BS. If a dealership has a question about coverage of a clearly diagnosed problem (obvious leaking engine oil lines), they should contact GM BEFORE the repair and get a coverage decision. There is no trying to get coverage after the fact with a known diagnosis, no let us fix it and we'll try to get it covered. The it's not covered because it's "not a moving part" comment just shows apathy, ignorance or incompetence on the part of the dealership. This is clearly a covered repair and should have been taken care of by a dealership. GM would not be happy to hear this occurred. I have provided the above opinion not as a comment on the OP's actions but to help clarify for others who may face a similar situation in the future. JMHO No expertise implied or expressed (I could be making it all up)

Front View feed the lines back in from the front and connect to the cooler, then go underneath and bolt on the block and connect the sensor. Add some oil and drink some beer. There may be an easier way to complete the job, and I'm sure a lift would help, but its not that bad and saved some cash for upgrades.

This is the path of the lines, between the motor mounts, engine, and cross member. It is a Chinese puzzle to get them out. I found that if you remove the stud that holds the line to the block they will come straight out the front view from driver side