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Had a chance to pull my flatbed trailer today to get a feel for how this gas does with some pretty heavy weight. Trailer is 5450 lbs empty, load was about 12,500. So nearing 18,000 lbs total combined trailer weight. Pickup weighs in about 7200 lbs so basically sitting at 25K GCVW. It was really windy today. Had a bad cross wind then had to drive directly into the wind. I was pretty happy with the performance. I didn't drive much above 60 mph because it was so windy, but it would have done it no problem on a calm day. Just kept the trans locked out of 6th and it pretty much held 5th gear once up to speed. Only towed this weight about 30 miles or so. To be upfront I would never pull this weight if I was pulling in a hilly area. I live where it's flat so I get by with it. But having said that I had no issues handling the weight at all. If this new 10 speed is even better I doubt I'll ever go back to a diesel again unless I tow regularly or move to an area where there is a lot more hills.

Only recently took a good look at the WT looks. To me it’s the best lookin trim

Actually the 6 speed is geared low enough from 1-3 it gets the load moving pretty good without a ton of revving. Where the flat spot is is from 3-4th. Think the 10 speed will help that. Sure it will rap out to 5K if I was flooring it all the time but if I just take my time it doesn’t scream too much. Braking is fine with the load but not having an exhaust brake like my LML has does suck. It will downshift some to help slow the load in tow/haul but it’s nothing like the exhaust brake on the diesel. I had a pretty good squat with it compared to my 2015 with air bags, but I will tell you it handles the load better than the 2015 with air bags in my opinion. Frame is pretty stout on the 2020+. It sits up a lot higher than my 2015. I was only 65 yesterday but trans temp never went above 165. I’ve never seen it get higher than that but I haven’t pulled in 100 degree heat yet either. I will say this thing tows way better than the old 6.0 4-speed I had but that was a 2005 so really can’t compare that at all to the newer 6.0L with the 6 speed. I’ve never actually driven one of those. I kept hoping maybe GM would up the HP/TQ on the L8T with the refresh but so far they haven’t and probably never will. I think something like 450HP/500TQ in a gas would just about meet most everyone’s needs for towing with a gas. That would help in the elevation areas. I know some will think providing a better gas engine will hurt diesel sales, quite honestly wouldn’t GM be better off anyway then you don’t have all the crazy expensive emissions warranty claims? Just my $0.02.

Also, this good news - it means Jettech’s new truck will come relatively fast once he orders it!

Love that red truck! Ordered mine from the factory. By the time it arrived I had forgotten just how big it was. Man! I guess it’s because the engineers wanted to fit a giant radiator up front and then the designers had to package it all up into some kind of design. I didn’t buy my pickup for her looks, but she ain’t too bad to look at. Actually had a car designer tell me it was a beautiful truck. Actually that’s what people say most often to me, “beautiful truck.” Shear size and stock ground clearance has been so useful in this truck. This truck don’t care if it’s snowing or raining. Doesn’t care if it’s in snow or dirt. It soaks up miles like a sponge. Feels like it’s going 60 when it’s more like 75. After a 10hr drive, I honestly arrive at my destination with less fatigue than any other vehicle I’ve ever owned. Have a friend that regularly overloads his gasser and then drives 100s of miles. It doesn’t care. Thrilled to have a modern, naturally aspirated gas truck without the complexity of start stop and cylinder deactivation stuff. Honestly don’t care about hp and ft-lb comparisons. This thing pulls strong and is dependable, rides better than a Ford, and isn’t a dodge. ‘nuf for me!

I have a 2022 Silverado 1500 four-wheel-drive. The dealer ordered the 2 inch lift kit they offer and I’m waiting for it to come in and have it installed. But I noticed that the kit doesn’t come with upper control arms. Is that going to be a problem? (***UPDATE*** ) so I had the factory lift gm offers installed. When I picked it up, it looked great but as soon as I went to drive it off the lot. I could tell something was wrong it felt completely different. I figured it was just a break in period. But even after a day or two, I was getting crazy bad vibration at low speeds. Took it back. They ended up putting one of the U-bolts on wrong (I have pictures if wanted) they fix that and told me the vibration was gone. I get my keys go to drive away vibrations right back. I turn right back around. this time they have a mechanic ride with me. He clearly hears an feels a vibration, says somethings wrong so we turned around and he takes it back in. Three hours later they bring my truck back they had to remove the back blocks said there was no taper to them and it was messing up drive line. I got it back and the vibration is still there. (Now annoyed that only the front is lifted and still vibrating). I have them take the whole lift kit off. Put it back to stock. (Now remind you my truck has been down and I’m missing work for 5 days at this point) And after that Whole ordeal, I was done with the truck since I couldn’t have it how I wanted it and decided to trade it in and they made me a good deal on a 2023 5.3 LT.z71 I know many have gotten this lift installed said it worked out for some reason it did not for me. I’m much happier with the new truck.

A couple of things I've seen on the financial news the last couple of days have struck me regarding GM. First off yesterday Liz Claman from Fox Biz interviewed Mary Barra and when Mary was asked about reoccurring revenue streams she broke into a smile that would have put the Joker to shame. I'm pretty sure that Grumpy would label that a greedy smile. Mary specifically mentioned subscription services for super cruise. If GM's marketing arm monitored these forums they would realize how bad people hate having to pay to use something they've already purchased. Secondly this am a financial advisor said he would be shorting GM's stock given their all-in approach on EV's. The headwinds that renewables face and the shortcomings of EV's are well known, yet GM plows blindly down this path like a lamb to slaughter. The last sentence being my perception of his sentiment. Your thoughts?

Just a quick intro to the group. I just purchased my first GM pickup; a new 2022 Silverado 2500 HD Custom with 5th wheel prep, 6.6 gasser/6 speed. I'm semi-retired and we recently moved to Tennessee. My 2021 Tundra was a great TV for our previous small TT. We decided to upgrade last August to longer, heavier TT. It pulled it down the road OK, but we were at/over payload most times. Also, in windy conditions, the additional height/length of the trailer made for some serious pucker moments. After a few months of research, several test drives in an F250 and the in 2500HD, I pulled the trigger on a Custom HD. I was quite lucky to find one close to home in my preferred Silver Ice Metallic with a 5th wheel prep package but not otherwise optioned into the $60k range. I've been lurking here for awhile and I'm impressed with all the info available. I'll be looking to take advantage of the collective wisdom of the group moving forward. I'm quite confident the 2500HD is by far the best option available at this price point. I can hardly wait till March for our 1st get away of the year. Then off to Destin in April!

Only if you are in the market for a 2023 Denali 3500. And no @Pryme am I going to buy a Denali. Anyhow there are several dealers now offering 6 to 8k off MSRP on the Denali's sitting on their lots. One was in Kentucky and the other was in Illinois. Either way if you are wanting a Denali, just open up the miles search engine and there are some deals to be had. If you consider 83k from say 90 to be a deal. But hey, there's a lot of money out there, and if you have it....that's amazing!! Go get'em.......

Yeah I really like the black and white look. And with the steelies it looks good imo. A lot better than that ford xl

You are correct there. I couldn't find one to save my life last summer but I was able to find the next best thing and that's the Custom model. But I do agree with you. I love the simplicity and just all around rugged look of them.

You tell them you are having a hard 2-1 downshift. And then you give them the TSB mentioned in this thread which says even without reproducing the problem, they should replace the transmission thermostat.

Thick as thieves I see you and @Pryme are.

They don’t want to lose too many diesel truck sales. That’s why they dangle the carrot but never let the gas get too crazy.

When I first saw pics of the new Ford I thought my god that’s ugly. I did see an XLT Tremor that didn’t look too bad but this this is hideous!

Try not tailgating. Where do you think the rocks come from?

Scotchgard! 3/15/2023 I was trying to think of a way to explain detergency and a fellow member of this list happened on the perfect analogy. Scotchgard! Thanks @OnTheReel. Detergent packages in motor oil are not like Tide that remove dirt form the thing you are attempting to clean. Oil detergents, among other things, act more like Scotchgard. They prevent the dirt from sticking. They are consumable. When consumed they no longer work. They can slow down the process but cannot prevent it from happening. If the OCI is short enough this can seem like prevention. I've seen in my time with my father pulling valve covers and oil pans from motors with half a million miles on them you could have used for shaving mirrors they were so clean. These motors used conventional oils but were changed on 1K mile OCI's. I've also seen School Bus motors with 3K OCI's on conventional oils requiring an ice-cream scoop to remove the sludge from the lifter valley. In my time, and my time is long in the tooth, I've had what I consider major success and supreme failures with Full Synthetics, and it puzzled me for some time. I run motors to 7.5K miles between changes with Red Line HP and have a spotless motor and yet QSUD at 5K on multiple motors cakes the valve covers and plugged breathers. Know what the difference is between these two oils? Solvency! Solvency in a motor oil is kind of like drycleaning fluid although not actually true it works to that effect. Harsh cleaners such as KREEN are literally more so. But the point is, they have the ability to 'solve out' like types. Carbon, sludge, varnish, and hold them in solution. More so with a great dispersant package. So, what gives a lubricant solvency? Polarity! Use of base oils that are polar. AN's, Oil Soluble PAG and all sorts of Ester groups, Ester, Diester and Polyol Esters, to name a few. It's a family not a individual. I'm going to lump them together and just call them Ester Functional. Not in the truest sense but 'acting like'. There are some marked differences. Straight up Ester can swell seals damaging them. Hasn't happened in like forever but. AN is more polar however this material is a really large molecule. Double Benzene ring type large and is hindered from entering elastomers for that reason. Unlike Detergent, Solvent action has the ability to clean EXSISTING deposits. For me viscosity is the #1 consideration but close on it's heals is the ability of a lubricant to keep my equipment clean. Ring sticking is almost always a contamination issue and not a mechanical one. Clean motors transfer heat easier and the addition of some Ester provides more friction reduction than a fat dose of Moly or Boron. But I digress.... We know that highly processed mineral oils, Groups II, II+, III, III+ and IV are increasingly non-polar. They are what we call DRY oils. Some Estolides that bond the Oxygen functionality to the chains center are also really dry bases. They have HUGE heat resistance and great pour points and increase in those traits the higher you go on the Group Chart. To the point where they, on their own, will not even hold a reasonable number of necessary additives. The carrier oils either need to be polar or the add package really small. They are great at resisting the formation of sludge, varnish and the like but if allowed to precipitate they cannot remove them......ever, on their own. This is the direction the industry has taken. Make the really deposit resistant and cut a boat load of additive for various reasons and some very good ones. Problems start when there is an upset in the system. Like leaky HPFP/fuel injectors and GDI non-vapor gas induction pumping varnish precursors into the oil chest. Well and the point is, they are not 100% effective. Yes, as good as they are they, by specification and license are allowed to deposit garbage in you motor. Less with each iteration but still present. Likely always will be. For me this means I want some solvency in my oil. Estolides with aniline points north of 130 are as dry as the Sahara. So are GTL's and PAO's. ANs under 50. Question is, how do I know how much ester is in my oil? Or any at all for that matter. That would take a really large library for a GCMS and some really expensive testing to nail that down. Add to that the industry standard "Not Telling" policy and you wonder.. Really? Oh, kiddos we have a back door. A method for finding indirectly the solvency of our base oil package. Have a good UAO/VOA lab? Look at the background Oxidation FTIR and the KF water. If that oxidation number is over 30 Index Units it contains some ester. If that number is over 100 Index Units, it contains allot of it. Remember I'm grouping all polar materials with the word Ester for simplicity's sake. Look at the KF water. Real end functional oxygen group Esters will have a high water reading even when no or little water is present. Both together tell you the polar components are ester rather than AN of OS-PAG. (PAG almost never used in outside research). VOA's of oils with very low background oxidation are the most highly refined bases. Read that the least polar. It's still a guess on what is being used to create polarity, but it also tells who is using just enough to make the add pack stick and who's using enough to clean and maximize lubricity. So next time someone questions if your Red Line still has any Polyol Ester left in it since Phillips made the 'Brand" a commodity product, point to the 100+ Oxidation and elevated KF ppm. HPL, MPT30K? If you were wondering if AMSOIL withdrew all of the Ester from Signature Series have a look at the 60+ Oxidation. Compare these with GTL Pennzoil, Mobil 1 whatever blends (various by by variations) at under 30. It's not a scapple but it's REALLY useful. Lake Speed Jr. put me on this path so no credit is due me. Although the product VOA's discussed were my own research in the VAO libraries. BITOG. Confirmation of formulation at Red Line by my internal resources at Phillips. Post by HPL.

I was thinking of trying to sell it privately, but not sure if anyone would pay more than $5k if it needs a new motor. I could try listing it and see what kind of offers we get though. Unfortunately we no longer have the used oil, so would have to wait until the next oil change to do a UOA. Our other vehicle is a 2018 Equinox with the updated powertrain and the 2.0 engine, (we ended up with 2 Equinoxes by accident), and the plan is to try to find something with a 3rd row to accomodate a kid and a dog. The upside is that we don't have to rush.

I'll bet they are. Have you looked on their site to see what a 2014 Equinox is selling for? Used 2014 Chevrolet Equinox in Chicago, IL | CarMax They may stuff a Jasper motor in it and still clear $5K. That's not a deal, that's a mugging (If otherwise in very clean shape). See @Black02Silverado and ask for a Synthetic Advantage UOA "Tuner Test". I'd bet dollars to donuts the HPFP is leaking into the crankcase and has gummed up the rings and plugged the CCV orifice. Could be injectors but the test would sort and confirm. New family and bleeding both cash and transportation is a hard way to go. If I can help, ask.

Again, I'll just shut up.

I’m getting used to this truck in the garage now so it doesn’t seem that big anymore compared to when I first got it, it seemed like a Peter built was in the garage haha.

2023 Sierra Elevation. Traded a 2017 Silverado LT last friday.

I switched to my chevy from a 2021 Ram 3/4 ton diesel. These GM trucks are much higher quality overall.

2023 Sierra

The purple one is truck 3rd brake light. The Black taped one is sport bar 3rd brake light. The wires for the offroad lights ties in to the 3 prong plug I don't have that light kit so I had to run my own wires. Here's the offroad light kit instructions Off-road lights kit.pdf

Someone dropped off some huge chunks of tree trunks at my daughter's house. These things had a diameter of like 4 feet! They were tremendous. Her friend cut them up with his tiny electric chainsaw, a few wedges and a sledge hammer! I couldn't believe it. It took him a long time, but he eventually got them cut up to fit in the wood splitter.

Oh my sweet pie!! I didnt even know!! Imma get these!! Thanks DrNick!!

Everything is blacked out except for the grill, also remove the old man auto running boards. Also swapped out the alum trim piece I made with a 1 3/16" vinyl trim I found on eBay Happy with it, just want to do something with the exhaust and different tires / wheels. I like the factory 22's but not sure what tires I could swap out to. Looking for a street tire.

Do what dram mentioned above and try the rear first. You will notice a big difference in the handling at high and low speeds. I have the Hellwig bar on the rear and stock on the front and I'm still happy the the purchase.

Originally bought the truck to pull our 2015 Keystone Passport Ultralite Grand Touring 24' bunkhouse. Yes the camper is half ton towable, but I wanted to be able to pull it with ease, so went with 3/4 ton. That lasted a year. This weekend the wife and I pulled home a new bigger camper. Brought home a 2018 Keystone Hideout 28' bunkhouse. Wanted more room for when the kids have friends come along. Truck pulled the new camper home and it felt the same as pulling our old camper. So now have 2 campers sitting in the driveway for the time being. First pic is our old camper from last year camping, get a glimpse of the truck in pic. 2nd pic is from Saturday as we pulled in the driveway with the new camper.

I did both front and rear hellwigs on my 2021 RST 6.2. It handles turns/corners much better. Was it worth the cost? depends on you goals. For me it was. After i added the hellwigs, i got the beltech drop coilovers up front along with a regular set of Bilstein yellow monotubes in the back, its way better than stock handling ever was. Much sportier and controlled in all driving aspects. If worried about costs, try the rear bar 1st. It made more of a difference on previous trucks ive added them to. This time i did both at the same time so i cant compare just the rear with stock front bar.

I had the exact same situation. One dealer offered $6k off MSRP but lowballed my trade below “poor condition” KBB value and wouldn’t budge. Another dealer an hour away had a slightly better spec truck and I got $3,500 off MSRP plus $4,000 higher on my trade than the first dealer. Ultimately I’m happy I got the better spec anyway— leather interior vs. cloth at the first dealer. Here’s my new glacier blue RST:

12,167 miles, 1,715 on oil. Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0w40 and Purolator Boss out. Sample being sent to TestOil. Red Line Euro 5w40 and Fram Ultra in. Tried to match interval mileage to the last one in order to hopefully eliminate some variables and follow a trend. Valvomax also installed.

Sony A7R III, 24-70 2.8, 70-200 MK2 2.8.

So how do I get my dealer to put the lower T stat in? I asked about it and he blew me off. I told him the trans temp goes to 215 when towing and 195 when not. He said as long as it stays under 245 I am good.

"Upgrade" has a catchy sound to it...doesn't it? Have you noticed the price of diesel is high enough to eat the entire difference in fuel cost and then some? DEF cost. PPF issues? Your current ride, well maintained, has triple or better the current miles left in it. What "thing" does the newer truck have you just can't live without? A wireless phone charger? A third cup holder? Under dash lights?

Why spend money you don't need to?