Leaderboard

It's still in 2WD for 99% of the time. The auto just allows it to engage the transfer case when required. Where as the 2WD keeps it from doing that.

I use AUTO every winter since they started putting in GM trucks and NEVER have any issues. Anyone telling you to never use it, don't know what they are talking about IMO. Its there for reason, so use it when necessary. Acquaintance is a state police canine officer and he has a Tahoe PPV and he is told to keep it in AUTO 24/7. Has had a couple Tahoe's so far and never lost the transfer case yet. Image them go over 130mph in AUTO? Here is GM info on that; I only copied info pertaining to AUTO

I would guess that most trucks that could possibly have valve body issues are still under powertrain warranty, which might explain why private shops aren't seeing any (yet).

I think in Imperial (I was in grade school when metric came along)...

That's an Admin decision and task. Probably will before too long

I ended up with a '24 2500 LTZ in black because the color options are not appealing. How many gray/white/red variants does the world need? The LTZ->HC bump wasn't worth it to me for the features (HC logo is also kind gaudy IMHO), but I'd pay that kinda delta for the color I want. Hint, GM, it's green. The supply chain argument is bullshit, there's money to be made.

You mean "Color" ?

Added the GM blackout kit last week.

If you were looking for new colors for the 2026 models you will be disappointed. out: GN0 Barb wire met G1W Abalone white tri coat New: G4J Polar white tricoat G42 White sands solid It also looks like the same restrictions across trim levels will exist so my new LT wont be Radiant red this time. Everything else stays the same. The pearl tri-coat choice changes appears like a lateral move. The one I dont understand is the loss of GN0 ? That seemed like a very popular color. If you thought maybe the interior would get some color you were wrong. Theres only sadness and light sadness just like before.

Is it possible to change the banner since the 2025 model run is winding down and the 2026 wont bring any real changes ? I realize its a little thing.

Two of the 3 trailers do have electric brakes, and are maintained and setup properly, I had the gain setup high as I dared go (no shortage of brake dust on the rims and tires and very hot drums showed how much brake I was using on the trailer alone, let alone my rotors being blue and smoke rolling off the brakes we I was stopped. Was super close to brake fade/failure. I’m sure by then the trailer brakes were getting to be useless from the heat alone. But I’ve pulled the same trailers thousands of miles with a Cummins and a hemi and 6.0 3500 Chevy prior, and never remotely had braking issues to that extent, the last time I had braking issues with my one trailer was when I still had a Tacoma and learned my trailer I had got that back then was too much trailer for a Tacoma classed truck. And then my dads trailers is pushing the limits of a half ton, not so much weight wise, but tongue weight, and the size of the trailer pushing the truck around (7x29 snowmobile trailer with 6’6” box height, it’s a lot for a half ton to keep stable) picture for size reference

Dealers here have some Chevy trucks discounted anywhere from $8,000 to $11,500 off MSRP. A crew cab V8 truck in a LT can be had for right around $47-48k, a turbo max truck is a few grand less. With fuel prices, I've seen stations jump as much as 40 or 50 cents in a single day, it's absurd if you ask me. More than half the stations won't move at all but a certain chain will have a huge spike for no real reason and then slowly come back down. I also find it dumb that these places say it's because the oil price might go up, but usually that doesn't happen or if it does it's going up $1-2 a barrel one day and it's down the next. Then you look at the US gasoline price on the stock market, it's barely changed and it's for future prices when you look at it. So the prices that these stations are buying it at has already been set, and stations have to buy large amounts of fuel in advance. So when they jack prices way up, they already payed a much lower price for that fuel and all it is, is a giant cash grab to increase profits. Not that what I'm saying here is anything really new but it's just crazy to see the rate at which these stations will spike prices. I remember in probably 2007-2009 time frame, it was big news when a station went up a mere 5 cents or maybe even 10 cents. Now it's so normal to see prices jump up and down 20-30 cents in a 7 day time frame. Prices around me range from $2.83 all the way to $3.39 a gallon for the same 87 octane that comes from the same place just outside the twin cities metro.

I never had a situation where my truck had to stop the trailer, with or without a load. My trailers always had brakes that could stop its load and the truck. Even my fifth wheel trailers were equipped to stop themselves without needing help from the truck. My pulling trucks had fuel tanks that were tied into the return on the truck tanks. With a manual tank switch. If you can’t get trailers for 1/2 tons that have decent brakes and depend more on the truck for stopping. I wouldn’t use a half ton for pulling in that case. I just was passing on what I heard about pulling limits regarding half tons.

Me too, I drag race but only a few times a year now for fun. These shafts are breaking because they are not made for turning more than 5,000 rpms at speed, that appears to be their "critical speed". These new trucks have 2 or 3 overdrive gears and are computer limited to the speed rating of their tires, generally speaking. So the shafts are made as light as possible to be as efficient as possible and are designed to be near those limits. I once hit 148 mph in my Buick GN, just did the math, that driveshaft was turning just over 6,700 rpms! Yours at the same speed would have been turning just over 5,850 rpms. When aluminum driveshafts first came out for our cars, we twisted them into pretzels while power-braking them for launch. Went back to steel and no more problems. I have a question for you, is there less stress on the drivetrain power-braking the car for launch or flashing the converter off idle for launch? I've been flashing the converters off idle for launch in our trucks but not sure if there's a few tenths to be gained by power-braking them. On the other hand, it's 117 miles to home and don't want to leave parts all over the 60 foot!

Just look at the colour choices from the '86 & '87 model years of the square body to the GMT400. We had a state of the art paint shop (6 or 8 lines) (after the changeover) & I'm sure the paint choices dropped in half. In the latter years of C/K production, trucks were scheduled so they were painted in batches. There was a paint shop each for the cabs and boxes. I'm not sure why, I never thought to ask my father the reasoning. The worse thing is when a new eye catching colour is intro'd, everyone gets it. Why does silver and/or maroon HAVE to be choices?

I think its a combination of factors, minimize choices to speed production and thereby increase the HDs ability to bankroll the GM EV failures and supply chain is still wonky. Truth is it was getting wonky for many years before 2020.

I only have about 8,000 miles on my 2024 gas, but have not had any problems you are referring to. I love the 10-speed and consider it to be the best transmission I have had in 40 years of driving Chevy trucks. I also love the 6.6 gas engine. Driving 1-ton Duramaxes for the last 24 years, I consider the 2500HD to be a comfortable ride; it is all relative, I guess. I mostly drive empty, but also tow 6,000 to 10,000 pound trailers. Power and brakes have not been an issue. Fuel economy would be my only complaint, coming from a Duramax, but I don't tow as much as I used to so it is not a deal breaker for me. I have enjoyed the Duramaxes for their capabilities, but with all the complications and issues surrounding the fuel, injection pumps, emissions, and expense, I am happy to be driving a gas truck again. If my 2013 Duramax service truck destroys its fuel injection pump again, then I will replace it with a 6.6 gas/10-speed chassis in a heartbeat. I was just at my transmission shop recently and asked them about the reported valve body issues with the 10-speeds and they have not seen a single one of them, and they are a very busy shop going back 40 years. I went 150,000 miles on my 2005 Duramax without a problem other than routine maintenance. However, if you read forums like this on the internet, then you would think that the 2005 model had a problem with head gaskets. Not mine. My point is that there are often issues reported online that will not necessarily apply to you. My 2024 2500HD has not had any of the online reported issues and recalls either. It was interesting to read what Texas Gasser had to say about trailer sway. I tow a 27' toy hauler with an off-road car in it. The car's engine sits at the back because it cannot be backed in, creating a tail-heavy trailer. I towed this trailer with a WDH for 17 years with my 2005 K3500 Duramax and never had a trailer sway issue. With my 2024 2500HD 4x4 and the same WDH, I cannot tow that trailer over 55 mph without scary trailer sway. I used to cruise at 65mph, no problem. I have experimented with raising and lowering the ball, WDH tension, and tire pressures with little improvement. Currently, I am towing it without the WDH, and it seems a little better, but still a problem. With minimal tongue weight and an empty 2500HD, the WDH is not technically needed. My conclusion is that the circumstances are all identical except for the truck itself, so there is something different about the 2024 2500HD 4x4 gasser than the 2005 K3500 Duramax that creates trailer sway in a 9,000 pound tail heavy trailer that did not sway before.

I have a stock 275/70-18 (33.1") spare with 295/70-18 (34.2") driving tires. I went through the same thought process and decided to leave the smaller stock tire as a spare. It is a 1.1" difference, which is a lot less than your difference. My reasoning was that in 40 years of driving a pickup truck on and off road, I have never had a flat tire. One reason that I am a fan of the BFG All Terrain T/A tires. My last truck was 17 years old before it was stolen, and the original spare had never been dropped down. If necessary, my plan is to put the spare on the front to avoid a problem with the rear differential. Reading stories from people who have temporarily driven with a smaller tire on the non-drive axle, it is not a significant problem. I also wondered about the larger spare fitting, but from that other reply, it looks like it will.

I had a 2021 F350 before my current 2024 Silverado 2500. I like both, man. Both tow my 12k 5er just fine. Wish I could have one of each haha. No issues with the 6.6 gas or 10-speed, but I only have ~8,000 miles on mine. Had no issues with the 7.3/10-speed either after about ~15,000 miles. Observations for the Ford: - E-coated frame is nice in the rust belt - Aluminum body is realllllly nice in the rust belt - Fit and finish not as good as the GM (few annoying rattles, the plastic felt cheaper, the finish/coating on some of the plastic interior pieces was already wearing off) - Seats are softer (which has its pro's and con's) - Brakes are much more responsive - they bite a lot faster than the GM - The running boards felt flimsy and had a bit of flex - Camera quality is terrible - Annoying that you can't get leather or dual zone climate control without stepping up to a Lariat Observations for the GM: - The transmission is MUCH smoother. - The ride is nicer but it's not significantly nicer. Still rides like a heavy duty truck. - Fit and finish are great. The materials feel a bit nicer. - Seats are definitely firmer, but I find that it translates into better support making them less fatiguing than the Ford seats - The cameras are noticeably higher quality. - The multi-flex tailgate is awesome. Much better than the Ford tailgate step. - Dropping the trans pan sucks because of the exhaust y-pipe. - You really have to push on the brake pedal to engage the brakes. I have done the whole push the brake pedal to the floor and hold it to try and get the brakes more responsive. And it did help, but they still don't feel as responsive as the Ford. - The steering is very heavy. I drove the F350 one last time before I sold it and I was whipping the steering wheel around like crazy because of being used to the GM steering. This may have been because the F350 has electronic assist steering and my GM doesn't. - I already have rust on the frame in areas were the wax has been rubbed off from servicing. I will be getting it Krown coated yearly going forward. - The standard bed is slightly longer + the puck system sits slightly behind the rear axle, which provides for better 5th wheel maneuverability. - For me, the LT trim level is an excellent combination of the features I want without all the extras that I don't want. If you want to mod your truck, the Ford with FORScan is much friendlier of an ecosystem compared to GM's VIP system (which is by design). I added heated steering wheel and adaptive cruise easily through FORScan and some OEM parts. Not a chance you would ever be able to do that with the VIP system. Even with an MDI2 and SPS2 subscription, there is not much you can do outside of reprogramming modules to facilitate repairs.

Basing it off what I was seeing in other areas of Tx. DFW pricing jumped .25. Usually, here, when Murphy's and one or two others boost prices, other highly competitive retailers follow with their own increases. It never jumps .25, here, but it might jump a dime one day and then a few days later a few more cents. Didn't happen this time As of now DFW locations are slowly dropping .03-.04 cents, but they generally are always a dime higher then my location in Abilene. Early driving years, DFW always had the lowest prices and ours was high. Everyone complained about our "Cartel" here, which was basically true. Now, since we have fuel dispensers from outside the area, harder to raise the prices and have them hold. Much more diverse now

The diesel trucks have the two batteries connected at all times because of the high compression starting requirements. The gasser 2nd battery is disconnected with a relay when it is turned off thus running things when the engine is off can't drain the primary battery. I installed a DCtoDC Victron Orion 50amp charger same as someone else did above using the battery kit that can be ordered from GM. It contains the needed nuts, fuses, etc for auxiliary use cases. Worked out really well for me and looks factory.

IMO He's got it made. Paid education and computers.

Normal. These have a thermal bypass valve aka a thermostat.

Thanks, I realize that, I was just being sarcastic. I spell is SAE not Metric.

Our team would like to connect you to a dealership who an assist with your steering concerns, and we ask that you reach out via email at [email protected]. We are eager to learn more. By sending us a message, you consent to the information you provide being monitored and recorded by GM or those acting on GM’s behalf, subject to the GM Privacy Statement: https://www.gm.com/privacy-statement.

I know this is a tad old but McGard makes all the OEM black lug nuts for GM. I used to work there, they might have what you want. they are M14X1.5 black PVD coated or Black chrome. Try calling them.

In my amateur drag racing days. Usually test and tune. I would run street tires. No more sticky than Mickey Tomson Is. To limit hard launches. My toys were street cars most had AC. Especially when I got older. Hot here in Texas. I had a favorite road I traveled for top speed that’s to busy now. My 94 Impala ss has my personal top speed record on it. It was very stable had speed rated tires and would shift to over drive under full throttle. Second one almost a decade later with my Trailblazer ss on the same road. Everything else in between. My last was my wife’s 2011 Genesis shortly after we got it. I remember buying my wife’s Acura Intagra R in 2001. We left the dealer hit I-10 towards lake Charles. We easily almost doubled the speed limit. We broke two no nos. Going over the speed limit and break in. Both of those we still have. Neither have Z rated tires anymore. I’m a good boy now. The roads I travel are too crowded anymore.

It must be a GM thing about the drive shaft. Usually it’s about the speed rating of the tires. I know by tuning all my trucks I’ve exceeded the governed speed. In my travels over the years I’ve been on roads that were flat for miles. I may have exceeded the limit. If it is a drive shaft issue. Shame on GM for building such a weak component. I think of all the times my father had his Buick singing a high speed song back in the day. Never a thought those bias ply tires would blow. Of course it’s not politicly correct to live on the edge anymore. We are restrained by devices to protect the weak minded and physically uncoordinated from themselves. Everyone ends up being afraid of everything. Speaking for myself I’ve had more fun testing the limits in safe spaces, most of the time. Then living in constant fear. Spare me the lecture of having fun can kill. I could be just plain talented or lucky. It doesn’t matter I had a blast. Oh I almost forgot my last new unrestricted truck easily did 130. I didn’t even quiver. Neither did the truck.

The fans going on and off is a good indication that the system is functioning normally

Got a slightly used AFE Pro 5R intake from another member here on the forum over a week ago. Finally got it installed. Took a little time and cleaned the filter and the box. Minimal issues with the install until I dropped the screw that secures the MAF to the air tube. Dang thing landed on the skid plate somewhere that I couldn't find it or reach it. Fortunately found a close enough match in my random screw jar. Aside from the 15 minutes it took to solve that issue, everything was done in about 25 minutes. I understood that these things tend to make the engine louder but I didn't notice any increase. Also I am sure that this thing has doubled my horsepower.

I got around to installing the sport wing molding today. Ordered it in matte black, seems to helps break up the grey of the doors so I’m satisfied with it.

Glad you made it. I too survived a Saddle PE two winters ago. Took some wind out of my sails but still here trucking along.

I've been a mechanic and Fleet Manager for over 35 years. Transmission shuddering has nothing to do with exhaust. That was just a chicken sh*t excuse by the dealership to get out of a transmission diagnosis/repair.

This is a great video to help understand backspacing and offset:

the seats are like a rock and no they dont break in......I always felt the seat base is too short as well and agree for some reason they really missed ergonomics of steering wheel and seating relationship along with seat...the power seat when it goes up it tilts forward so its not really independent......which seems really odd since they been building trucks forever.....i will most likely get seat covers and use a pad.....maybe in year or so they break in better which if so would be totally worth it or just find a wrecked denali and swap seats, lol.....(did not know denali seats were longer)