redwngr

Map data for Nav is on the SD card. Card has probably been accidentally ejected. It's in the storage console, just in front of the usb ports

So why is it salvage?

Mine has the Dark Walnut/Dark Ash Grey interior. It was ordered with the all-weather factory floor liner kit. (rpo RIA) I didn't look up what they offer as accessory matts -- but that pic is the style of (rpo RIA) 'factory' ones for 2021 model. They seem to also be offered on Denali for 2022LTD. For 2022.5 that rpo isn't offered on Denali or Denali Ultimate. They continue to offer the RIA mats on lower trims on the 2022.5 Sierra's. RIA LPO, All-weather floor liner, 1st and 2nd rows (dealer-installed) There are/were at least 2 other floor mat/liner options available on '21 Denali Despite the smart ass comments in and about JimCosts2014 pic, they are styled the same, but are lighter in colour. To my eye, the ones in the pic look black. In any case, (assuming the pic is also a Dark Walnut/Dark Ash Grey interior) they seem to be darker than the door trim. Mine are lighter than the dark 'walnut' door trim. More like the Dark Ash Grey items in the interior. Denali interior colors offered for 2021 and 2022LTD H2X (Jet Black) HVH (Dark Walnut/Dark Ash Grey) I have no idea if the RIA liners are available in other colours to suit the other two sierra interiors offered. Ohoh, perhaps mine came with the wrong colour....

How much speeding up and slowing down during the commute. Like every other engine, steady speed is better. Speed also matters. Lower speed is better. Avg speed seems low for 65-70 mph driving. 4wd? Are you running in 2wd or auto or 4wd? 2wd will give best mpg. What's best 25? What's the 25mpg avg look like near the end of the highway travel? How's the weather been? High winds will also reduce mileage. (unless you only get tailwinds....) How about grades and elevation changes?

They don't have to spend two days checking the harness before applying the update. (maybe I misunderstood what you're telling us) Mine was in for something else today and the did the update while it was there. Less than an hour total. Perhaps extended diagnosis if it it does crank/no-start after the update? If one is still doing and has already had the update, then that could require more diagnostics. Most have reported programming update corrected the problem. Otoh, it wouldn't be the first time a service adviser was wrong about what the techs do / need to do.

Mine wanted the password shortly after one of the ota (over the air) updates for the 'infotainment' system. Kinda / sorta like when a. phone or computer does a full updated.

Your memory is correct. Of course 'dolly' towing is an option for 2wd and single speed transfer case trucks.

If your manuals are missing, or if you prefer electronic, you can download free pdf versions from GM's websites. PDF version is setup with hotlinks for jumping around inside the manual

If using any boost system, method is important.... Boost boxes are definitely convenient.

Pretty sure that's not how warranty works...

Would be a lot more than just an engine swap. 3.0 is always mated to the 10 speed, 2.7 is never mated to the the 10 speed. Would also require adding a def tank and fill system. Emissions and exhaust are different. Likely different radiator/cooling system. etc I was wondering if the replacement 2.7L would be the newer high output one....

Been posted. Multiple times.

Perhaps truck isn't detecting foot on brake pedal?

No.\ it doesn't need to be in 'remote holder'. Location is for use if the battery in remote is dead.

fwiw, the light test on mine seems to work fine. Stops when stop is pressed. I haven't let it run long enough to see if it times out at 1 minute 45 seconds like it is supposed to and haven't tried any of the alternate methods of stopping the light test. I have 2 trailers setup and also others (that don't have electric brakes) that I pull (short distances) as 'guest'. Being able to quickly do the test without assistance is a great improvement, Light Test Touch Start Light Test to cycle the trailer lights on and off to determine if they are working. The test follows this sequence: 1. The running lights turn on first and remain on throughout the sequence. 2. The brake lights turn on for about two seconds. 3. The left turn signal light flashes three times. 4. The right turn signal light flashes three times. 5. The reverse lights turn on for about two seconds. 6. Steps 2–5 repeat for approximately one minute and 45 seconds, or until the test deactivates. Touch Stop to stop the test. The test will automatically end after one minute and 45 seconds. The sequence also deactivates when any of the following occur: . The ignition is turned off. . The transmission is shifted out of P (Park). . The brake pedal is pressed. . The turn signal is activated. . The hazard warning lights are activated.

It is. It's listed in the duramax supplements. Same filter for the 3.0 and the 6.6. 6.6 supplement: 8-Cylinder Pickup (L5P) 23304096 TP1015 3.0 Fuel Filter 23304096 TP1015 In both supplements, the info is a few pages before the start of the 'capacities and specifications' sections 2.8 diesel in colorado/canyon does not use this filter.

Longer jumper cables are more expensive, but they can be effective. Being able to jump without being nose-to-nose can save a lot of grief. Sometimes it just isn't practical maneuver the vehicles to be nose to nose. Of course the longer they are the heavier the gauge needs to be to carry the same current without a drop in voltage.

Why not just get the necessary tool for about $25? https://www.amazon.ca/Lisle-59370-Stretch-Remover-Installer/dp/B00AC60VEC/ref=asc_df_B00AC60VEC/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292938455193&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13831848006089833062&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1002325&hvtargid=pla-300413058638&psc=1 Seems like an inexpensive and logical addition to the tool box.

The need to disconnect comes with the change to electric parking brake. To dinghy tow: 1. Position the vehicle being towed behind the tow vehicle, facing forward and on a level surface. 2. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow vehicle. 3. Apply the parking brake and start the engine. 4. Shift the transfer case to N (Neutral). See “Shifting into N (Neutral)” under Four-Wheel Drive 0 241. 5. With the engine running, release the parking brake and verify that the transfer case is in N (Neutral) by shifting the transmission to D (Drive) and then to R (Reverse). There should be no movement while shifting the transmission. 6. Shift the transmission to D (Drive). 7. If equipped with an ignition key, turn the ignition to ACC/ACCESSORY. If equipped with Keyless Access, turn the engine off. Disregard the Shift to P (Park) DIC message. See Ignition Positions (Keyless Access) 0 229 or Ignition Positions (Key Access) 0 228. {Warning To avoid death, serious injury, or property damage, before dinghy towing the vehicle, always disconnect and secure the negative battery cable and cover the negative battery post and cable with a non-conductive material. If the battery is left connected or the battery cable contacts the post, the Electric Parking Brake may activate during towing, which could cause a crash. 8. Disconnect the negative (–) battery cable. See “Negative Battery Cable Disconnection” in Battery - North America 0 341. 9. Shift the transmission to P (Park). Caution If the steering column is locked, vehicle damage may occur. 10. Move the steering wheel to make sure the steering column is unlocked. 11. If the vehicle has an ignition key, keep it in the towed vehicle in ACC/ACCESSORY to prevent the steering column from locking. If the vehicle is equipped with Keyless Access, keep the RKE transmitter outside of the vehicle and manually lock the doors. Access the vehicle by using the key in the door lock.

Let us know what they find. Clearly that's not normal. Clearly they don't all do that.

As eckseleven posted, if you're not getting the 'keep driving' message, then your LM2 is getting the regens done. I have an iDash so can watch when regens occur and how long they take. LM2 takes about 11 or 12 miles to complete a regen. If it is not complete when it is parked, it will resume soon after the start of the next trip - and still be about 11 or 12 miles total. (unless it is quite close to completion, when it may decide 'close enough for this time' instead of resuming)

idash (or others) can display what gear it is in. (and lots and lots of other things to pick from) I don't believe I drive/operate the truck any different because of it, but i do enjoy seeing the info it can display. I guess I'm saying they are lots of entertainment, but they are not a necessity.

https://sherpglobal.com/

maybe it had some sort of disabler or tracker on it