That will be entirely dependant on the dealer. They should give you some kind of discount for sure. Depending on how much they actually made on the deal they may have room to through them in at no charge but that's all up to them. At the very least I would ask for them at their new car departments price.
Those tires unfortunately are going to look excessively small on that truck if you go with a 6" lift. Unfortunately a 10ply is going to be your only real option to go with in a 35 if you want to avoid your truck looking like it skipped leg day.
Hey, so I know exactly what you're talking about and I've researched this a fair bit. The way I've looked at it is, there is an armrest that should be able to bolt in place of your existing one. You'll have to swap over the seat belt and some of the trim pieces. In anything I've looked at, I don't see why it won't work. If you're interior RPO Code is "HOU" then have your local dealership look into P/N: 84541195 for the armrest and if you want the liner P/N: 84166736. I'm not saying that this has been tried and is a 100% thing, I'm just saying that I don't see any reason what so ever as to why this wouldn't work. Parts you're looking around $600 Canadian so likely much cheaper for you down in Texas.
Its not so much the offset that's causing the issue. What's I've seen is that the caliper actually sticks out past the hub a little so any wheel, regardless of offset, that had spokes that run straight out from the hub are not going to clear the caliper. The spokes need to instantly taper towards the outside of the vehicle in order to clear the caliper.
The majority of the level kits I've seen specify that they're not to be used with Magride. That being said, they new model trucks don't actually have the old magride system, they're adopted a dynamic ride control system. Same result but very different system but regardless, most industries advise against lift/levels for both of those style systems.
I don't entirely understand the point you're trying to make. I work at a GM dealer and am well aware of the configurations and styles available for the new trucks. My comment was simply stating that of the two trucks posted, of the original posters previously owned vs. his new purchase, I preferred his old truck and gave an explanation as to why. Had he purchased something more along those the lines the picture you posted, unrelated to what the vote was for, I would have voted accordingly.
Yes, I completely understand that. He was wanting to compare those two specific trucks. So in that instance, because the OP does not have one of those colour matched models, in my opinion, I was more of a fan of his previous truck.
If the ignition cylinder was untouched then you're honestly golden. I work in parts at a dealer and we code cylinders all the time for customers. There's no programming for a door cylinder so hopefully your local dealer is like mine where parts can build the cylinder to your code (usually like to have an original key just to make sure its all good) and it would be a matter of swapping the door cylinder. Usually there's an extra charge for building the cylinder, it is extra time so it makes sense but that's how we do it.
You don't get a new key when you buy a lock cylinder. The cylinder will come as a blank kit that is then coded with the tumblers to match your vehicles key code. There will still likely be some kind of programming required for the install of the cylinder but no, you will not need to replace all the lock cylinders. Not sure who told you this or why so many people are agreeing but its just not the case. Your old keys will be just fine and only the cylinders that were damaged will need to be replaced.
So, there's actually 2 flaps on this system, one that you can see at the end, and there's a second further in which is why you need a special funnel to fuel with a jerry can. Its too bad that because the OP doesn't like it, it automatically makes it a "poorly designed mess", its not. But this is the way all manufacturers are going.
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