JimCost2014

Yea, I hardly ever drive the SUV, just took it out for a spin down to beach to make sure all the 4WD functions were still working. It had been sitting for a week while on vacation, wanted to make sure the battery was not dead. The doors lock, it goes into gear just fine, and the tow/haul works just fine, but it just sounds so different from my truck. I hate to wait till something breaks, but do not want to pay for, "working as designed, no idea what it might be".

Where is that located?

What do you think might make a noise more like plastic, rather than metal, not my video, but you can see the inside of the column.

Welcome to the site, and thank you very much for your service to our country!!! Lots of good questions, I will field #4, you will have to "flash" the new transmission so the truck knows it is there, and can go through it's learning curve. Can probably do #3 also, lots do a thermostat delete on the tranny to keep temps down, would be easy if it is not even in the truck yet. Thinking you have a 6 speed (#5), so the shop should be able to do the normal flush which pushes out 20 quarts and replaces it with 20 fresh quarts.

Welcome to the site. Move ahead to 5:00 minutes in the video, looks pretty straight forward.

I would think you would be ok, here is the dealers info:

So, you will take the average of guesses and go with that, do not forget to factor in you will be using winter blend gas soon and that will also effect your MPG. If you are getting roughly half of what you get without a trailer hooked up, you are in in the ballpark of where you should be. Slow down to around 60, use tow/haul to get going and take your time going to Alaska, only real world way to stretch out the mileage.

I guess the question once again is, what do you think the MPG should be on a 5000 pound truck pulling over 5000 pounds behind it at 75 MPH? Think there is a reason why you do not see tests or rating of MPG for trucks towing, just too many variables to get anywhere near exact numbers.

Yea, was hoping that I was not the only person with a GM truck to have this problem. I will wait for some more responses before I try to take apart the wife's daily driver. Thank you for the reply and idea.

My truck shifts from park to gear with a nice solid "thunk", this sounds kind of like hitting a hard piece of plastic with an object. Almost sounds like it is echoing through the lever. The tow/haul switch works, but it almost sounds like it might be coming from that area, another noise is at the shift boot, almost sound like the loom is binding/moving on it.

Pretty sure at this point, there will be virtual shows. Maybe even Zoom opportunities to participate in Q&A sessions on new rigs.

So. this is actually a problem I discovered today in the wife's 16 Tahoe (same lever as the trucks), makes a "clicking" sound when you move the transmission from Park into gear. Once the lever is moved, it moves freely through all gear selections, and no noise going back into the park position, just makes the click sound when you move it into gear. Any ideas, reason I am posting here is because instead of the Tahoe portion of the forum is because there is more traffic on the truck side of things.

My 2008 had engine mounts that were hydraulic filled, the one on the drivers side started leaking leaving a clear "oil" on the garage floor.

Is it the dealership where you worked? I have been dealing with the dealership where I worked for almost 23 years now, much better buying when you are a customer rather than an employee, I beat the crap out of them on my rigs, because I know the direct route to GM to get things fixed.

You are very welcome. XM/Sirius and On Star, and I believe maybe for HD radio. The 1940's antennae on our fender is still for AM/FM radio.

Welcome to the site. If you have a rapport with the dealership, check to see if they can get you into another truck, understanding you have signed paperwork and now a bank owns it, maybe it is possible without too much financial burden on you. Open a claim with GM, they built it, not the dealership, they just sell them. Let Gm know how unhappy you are, they can help, but you have to patient, they have lots of customers, and work with them to be a happy buyer. And, like I said earlier, which you probably already know,, but are angry, dealership could care less if you dump it on their lot, the banks owns it now, and they will come and get it. You will be on the hook for the loan on the truck, and it will screw up your credit pretty bad (I am assuming you financed the truck).

Yea, if you caught the bed/cab issue, DO NOT check your rear bumper to see if the gaps on the bed are the same, or if it sits level. And NEVER check the gaps on your front bumper, top, sides, and level, because your next post will be about buying a new RAM. Ohhh, forgot how the rear doors fit at the bottom rear edge on the crew cabs...... Other than that, welcome to the site, and congratulations on your new to you truck, all little things that will never effect how your truck runs or drives, just little things that bug people like you and me.....

Here is the part number:

I would just let them know, so they can put it the service records on the truck, better safe than sorry later when you have even more miles on the truck.

Have you let the dealership know the issue is back? I believe parts replaced under warranty have their own 12/12000 warranty, so if it is what is failing, it should be covered. But I would check to make sure with your dealer.

Welcome to the site. Check the RPO sicker in your glovebox for one of these codes: MG5– This is the NV3500 manual transmission. It is the only manual available for the 2004 Silverado. M32– This will be the 4L65E transmission, which is an upgraded version of the 4L60E. M30– This is the 4L60E automatic transmission. It came in the lighter duty trucks. It is a four speed overdrive transmission. MT1– This is the 4L80E automatic transmission. It was used in HD applications. MW7 or W74- Allison Transmission, If you have a diesel Silverado there’s a high likelihood that you may have one of these two transmissions.

Welcome to the site. Do you have this code in your glovebox on the RPO sticker: Z95 Suspension, MagneRide Magnetic Ride Control

Good luck with your new truck. Post some pics, always nice to see the the other brands up close without having to step on their lots.

Since you both have 14 models with the "Shark Fin's" that were the leakers, and had a tendency to rust, wonder if they both are failing. The newer generation has a different seal and connections, that don't seem to leak or have problems.

Now just some personalized plates with "Sinister" on them, and the theme will be complete.