JimCost2014

You need the IO6 to have the factory Nav present. Do not think it is all that expensive to swap your 2.0 HMI to the 2.5 version (IO6) to have everything that was offered with it.

Think the biggest problem, is you have the IO5 HMI module and the not the IO6 which includes all of the bells and whistles.

Wife does not have OnStar in her 2016 Tahoe and the factory Nav works just fine, so don't think it is needed. These are the RPO codes you would look for to see what you actually have in your rig. IOS Audio system, 8" diagonal GMC Infotainment System, includes multi-touch display, AM/FM/SiriusXM stereo, Bluetooth streaming audio for music and most phones, Android Auto and Apple CarPlay capability for compatible phones, advanced voice recognition, in-vehicle apps, personalized profiles for infotainment and vehicle settings IOU Audio system, 8" diagonal GMC Infotainment System with Navigation, includes multi-touch display, AM/FM/SiriusXM stereo, Bluetooth streaming audio for music and most phones, Android Auto and Apple CarPlay capability for compatible phones, advanced voice recognition, in-vehicle apps, personalized profiles for infotainment and vehicle settings 1 - Included and only available with (Y29) Infotainment Package I. 2 - Included and only available with (Y3I) Infotainment Package II. IOT Audio system, 8" diagonal GMC Infotainment System with Navigation, includes multi-touch display, AM/FM/SiriusXM stereo, Bluetooth streaming audio for music and most phones, Android Auto and Apple CarPlay capability for compatible phones, advanced voice recognition, in-vehicle apps, personalized profiles for infotainment and vehicle settings. Includes greater memory. U2L Radio, HD 1 - Included and only available with (Y3I) Infotainment Package II UZ6 Audio system feature, 6-speaker system UQA Bose Sound System premium 7-speaker system with amplifier in center console 1 - Included and only available with (Y3I) Infotainment Package II.

I guess my real question to you is, does it really matter if someone else has the same problems as you? They are going to have their thoughts on fixes, or complaints on the truck they have. It sounds like you have an expensive truck and are not happy with it, open a claim with GM if you are not happy with your dealer, they did not make it, they are just doing a crappy job fixing it in your eyes. Let GM know what is going, do not let the dealer you are doing this, or go to another GMC lot, you are not tied to the one where you bought it from for warranty work. The answers you get from the forums will not fix your truck, and if you try to do the repairs, you will void your warranties, use them, that is why most of us buy new trucks, to not to have to work on them ourselves when they break. Trucks are a machine, they will break at one point no matter who made it.

So, is that how they "season" them with rust before the trucks are built ?

Am I crazy? are there ghosts? Yes X 2. Way too much to read, so I will "cherry pick" this part to answer.

Had a case number with GM Sr Advisor and was at the dealer for 3 days. Do you really think that is a realistic time frame for this problem to be completely solved? Good luck on your next purchase. Pretty sure Brand X would have no better results in that time frame.

No, it is just an update to the factory system if it is already there.

Have to follow the steps in the OM exactly of you risk what happened to you. 7. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. 8. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 9. Connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. 10. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable. 4.3L Shown, 5.3L and 6.2L Similar ‐ To the metal bracket that is bolted to the engine and supports the resonator, on the vehicle with the dead battery Jumper Cable Removal Reverse the sequence exactly when removing the jumper cables. After starting the disabled vehicle and removing the jumper cables, allow it to idle for several minutes.

Try this and let us know how it works:

Welcome to the site. Take it in while it is still under warranty, could be numerous things going on.

I avoid people as much as I can Words to live by, for a long time now.....

Yea, the battery checked out perfect at the dealer just minutes after we hit it twice with a jump box on the way there in our 16 Tahoe. Wife would not leave without a new battery, no problems since. These trucks need clean power, or else all kinds of gremlins start happening.

It should, if you buy one of the factory AC Delco touch up paint kits, you get both the paint and clear in separate compartments in the "pen".

Where in the cab is it? If you have the paint, it probably can not hurt as long as it is not wet.

Original battery? I do not think there is a dealer anywhere that has ever found a bad battery in one of the trucks.

And like Eddie suggested, especially if you have never changed the cabin filter, I would do so. You will be amazed how much crap they stop from entering the truck and how plugged up they become, restricting air flow for the HVAC. The battery going bad will cause issues you would never even think of in the new "rolling computer" trucks we drive.

That is much better, at least the price, not so much for the problems he is already having.

Thanks for the info, I learned something new today. Do you know the RPO code, tried this with my truck this morning and could feel the upshift from 1 to 2.

I don't think so, could be wrong, with the way the transmissions are set up. D is controlled by the truck, M is you, but they all start at 1 and work their way to 6, 8, 10 depending on what you have.

Thank you, good answer to the question.

I like this video better, go big or go home:

If you come to a complete stop the transmission will still start off in 1st gear (M1), it just won't shift past M2 till you shift up manually or put it into D.

Does not really answer the question of why does it need to be done? What is done when recalibrated, other than being "recalibrated"? It is a camera that never loses power, and why would the factory glass replacement cause any issues?

$86K truck, Yikes?