aseibel

come on, this high quality chinese crap comes complete with two "hose claps" and everything. Looks fantastic.

I thought long and hard about it before making my decision. I couldn't find any documentation (that I believed) that wasn't published by someone who makes their money selling parts. But I still bought and installed the Airaid MIT. I figured, heck, I like the sound, and if it gives me .1 better MPG, that's great. I can't say I feel any gains with my butt dyno. But I like that I can hear it when I go to pass someone on the 2 lane county road. I put a K&N intake on my old '98 K1500 and I swear with that & a flowmaster muffler I gained 1 whole MPG (with years of gas mileage calcs to back it up). That was a generation ago when trucks didn't roll off the factory line with every drop of fuel economy squeezed out of them. Can we really free up some HP by simply removing the restrictive air chamber? Maybe. Sound reduction is very important to the manufacturers, and the small increase in noise with a CAI is worth it to me. At the end of the day, do what makes you happy.

lets start here->

That's nuts, maybe its just worse in CA. Others have said on here that inventory is very low right now. It doesn't help that you're limiting to the 6.2. For reference, my town has a GMC dealer and a Chevy dealer, only 3 trucks with 6.2 on either lot right now, but all are listed for 6-8k below MSRP. Shop around and let them know you aren't desperate, but willing to purchase if they want to sell.

A guy was asking about selling OEM take-offs earlier this week. You should talk to him.

Because they call them air deflectors, not mud flaps. They are supposed to help reduce drag of the air hitting the tires. But I added flaps to my rear because I was sick of scraping snow out of my bumper, otherwise I get huge puddles of slush in the garage. What a difference decent flaps make in snow country.

I got mine re-coated by the dealer under warranty at 36 months old and that's the last time I'm going to worry about it. Nothing is going to be perfect under a truck. Rust is going to happen. I would suggest just touching it up using the NoX factory coating. It is supposed to "self heal" after small scratches. Paint won't do that. The frame will last as long as the rest of the electronics on my truck and after another 10 years, I'll be in a new truck anyway. As far as fluid film, it's awesome stuff for coating bare metal. I used it on my plow. But it's not good on rubber, and possibly some other surfaces, so be careful where you spray it.

This is a photo of my undercover swing case. I use that to keep the rest of the bed open for more important items! From opening weekend hunting with my Dad and my sister 2 years ago.

owners manual:

Ever notice how every street in every movie/tv show driving scene is wet? That's because it looks better on film. Just like shiny tires, I think it makes for nice photos but looks cheesy in real life.

I didn't know you lived in my neighborhood!

Your springs carry the weight, shocks just help damper the bumps. I bolted on some hellwig helper springs on my truck solely because I planned to drive around with up to 400 lbs of sand in the bed during winter. I left them on all the time because they don't hurt the ride unsprung. There are various bolt on options you can consider if the sag really bothers you. (sumo, timbren, hellwig, etc, not to mention airbags) I don't think your trailer is going to cause you a considerable problem. Are you planning to use a WDH? Go find 3-4 buddies/neighbors, hand them each a beer and tell them to stand at the back edge of the bed while you measure your sag. Then you'll know exactly what you'll be dealing with.

well, I wish I knew that before I bolted them back up. They'll have to wait until the next rotation to get cleaned now! Thanks everyone for the responses, I guess they are just supposed to fit that tight. I've rotated way more lug-centric wheels in the past, never had this issue before my current truck.

I have some like the above post. The kid seats don't seem to deform the padding. They aren't that heavy. I'm way more concerned about the milk, juice, applesauce, 100 kinds of crumbs all over my seats.

So I thought I could quickly rotate my tires on Friday night. I ended up spending more time with a 2 lb hammer rapping on the back side of the tires to jar them loose. I didn't want to hit the aluminum wheel, so instead I'm bouncing it off the rubber about 100 times before it popped off. Is there a trick I'm missing? I know I had to do this last time as well, but it seemed easier then. To hopefully help next time, I rubbed a bit of oil on the hub, where I believe it was binding. I always dab some oil on the lugs anyway. My other vehicles don't stick like this, the wheel is usually leaning by the time I loosen the last lug nut. Any helpful tips would be appreciated.

my '15 has 1/3 of that mileage, I wonder what I could sell it for?? Either way, my truck has been great, I plan to keep it for a long time. if you think the condition of that one makes it worth the high mileage, then go for it. Truck prices keep going up. The issue that has the most complaints is the chevy shake, so you should test drive at freeway speed to feel for vibration. But chances are its fine if they drove it that much.

nice data. did you catch in there they have some data points for "tailgate down" and all of them are about even or slightly worse than with it up (baseline)?

Yeah, I bet you quit reading when you saw that. If you read the next paragraph you would have seen this: "Did the mileage go up with the tailgate down? Yes, but the amount is so small as to be statistically insignificant. A single gust of wind during one of the 10 mile runs could account for this much difference."

Giant nose cone would help, it would suck to park in the garage though. OK, you don't like popular mechanics, here's some more proof. Google is a wonderful tool. Time and again tests show no significant gains at best, or possible loss of economy at worst, with tailgates down. maybe you should redo your tests. Simply put, the auto manufactures have to squeeze every ounce of economy out of vehicles to meet gov't requirements. Nothing we do to them is going to make significant improvements. https://www.scangauge.com/tips-tricks/tailgate-updown-and-gas-mileage/ https://www.autoblog.com/2014/08/26/ford-f-150-tailgate-up-down-mpg-video/ https://removeandreplace.com/2015/07/28/does-a-pickup-truck-get-better-gas-mileage-with-the-tailgate-up-or-down/

Mythbusters tested the tailgate down theory, as well as a hard tonneau cover. Result= no MPG improvement either way. https://www.popularmechanics.com/science/g475/15-favorite-mythbusters-car-myths/?slide=7 Now a giant cone might help. It comes down to pushing a giant brick through the air, the problem is the front profile on trucks.

I don't think you will have any problems with that. If you actually inflate the new tires to exactly 32 psi, I'm pretty sure that won't even set off the pressure alarm if your truck is set for 35 psi. I can't find documentation, but I thought they have to lose significant pressure (like >25%?) before the light goes on. I know I've had my tires 1-2 psi low before with no lights. If you mount them yourself and they clear the brakes, you should be good to go.

Seems like you've already done your research and know what you're getting into. Only suggestion I have is, go ahead and match an OEM wheel option and tire SIZE, but select the tires you like best from any local tire distributor. OEM tires are bottom of the barrel garbage. You can find many better options for your type of use and visual appeal. Unless you want to do this as cheap as possible, then you can find ready to use take-offs from someone else who ditched their OEM setup for aftermarket.

I admire some of the DIY stuff on guy's trucks around here, I've always been more comfortable with a cordless drill and a saw. Margin of error is more forgiving on wood studs than my truck's brakes. My problem is now that my wife knows my capabilities, she expects things to get done faster. I tell her all the time not to rush me, I make more mistakes when I'm under pressure. I know how many times you are supposed to measure and cut things, but that doesn't mean there haven't been some oopsies.

Is this about the cleanest truck? Mine is rarely is that shiny.