aseibel

Even though the seat swap is likely possible (it was on the K2s), you should really consider just buying a truck that already has the seating configuration you want. You may find that modifying the seats will end up costing more for a worse finish than if you just bought an SLT and added your own lift kit and tires. There are wires and harnesses that you may be missing, and holes in the carpet, its just not going to be as nice as a truck that was built that way. If I were you that's what I would look into first. Its generally easier to get everything you want up front than try to install OEM parts after the fact. But if you really want the AT4, you should look for a member named pgamboa who sells electrical parts for mods. He can probably tell you exactly how this would work.

I know what you are saying. But if you are really towing something and getting 10 mpg, you can still make it over 200 miles, that's about 3 hours on the interstate. So you can pass a few stations. I for one enjoy stretching my legs and hitting the john about every 3 hours anyway. There are ways to add auxiliary tanks if you really want to. For those that serious about towing large, heavy TT's, the HD trucks are probably a much better looking option.

Yeah, it sucks, but there's just not that much room for more tank under the CC. On the plus side, my current truck gets the same amount of miles out of 24 gallons that my old truck got out of 30 gallons!

I did what you are describing on my 2015. Used the cargo light circuit to power two KC Cyclone led lights. No issues with it, I'm very happy with the results. If it worked on the K2, why wouldn't it work on a T1?

Hes just asking because this is very high mileage for this truck model. People have wondered about the longevity of the engine with AFM activated. Some people deactivate it because they fear it will cause problems long term. You're not using Canadian KM measurements are you? 219K Miles is a lot for 5 or 6 year old truck.

Wow, this is very interesting. I just remembered that I have a coating thickness gauge in my tool bag, I rarely use it. but I went out and took 10 readings on my '15 truck hood, both the leading edge and top. The average was 3.81 mils. It seemed like the thinner areas are along that front edge, where most chipping occurs. on top of the flat hood is more like 4.0 and above. Then for comparison, I looked at my '04 grand am hood, that was around 5.0 mils average.

You are right. I along with many others were graced with the lovely goodyear SRA's when I bought my off-road capable Z-71. I wouldn't buy those tires for a passenger car, much less for a pickup truck. Duratracs are a completely different ballgame.

Don't think I've ever given any consideration to what the knobs on the dash look like. Does the radio work? OK, I'm happy.

Not more aggressive than what? these are plenty aggressive for driving off-road, in snow, etc. Yet not so obnoxious that they make excess noise or kill your MPGs. For anyone who is more concerned with performance On & Off the road than they are with looks, these tires are perfect. Compare with the crap they put on your truck at the factory. If you are solely looking for the most obscenely large lugs you can find, or you are actually planing to do rock crawling, then look elsewhere.

nevermind. I see 3 others already said the same thing.

I get the point of the catch can. I just don't know if it matters in the long run. I just wonder if you were to put a collection system on the end of your tailpipe, what would that thing catch? does anybody care about the crap coming out the other side of the head, or only what goes in? Just food for thought.

The search tool on this site sucks. go search on google and then you can find all the other threads: "gm-trucks.com catch can" https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=6Gn6XNKyGdG0tQXg_5HoDQ&q=gm-trucks.com+catch+can&oq=gm-trucks.com+catch+can&gs_l=psy-ab.12..35i39j0i22i30.1325.6280..6468...3.0..1.238.3724.1j25j2......0....1..gws-wiz.....6..0i67j0i131j0i131i67j0j0i131i20i263j0i30j0i10i30j0i13j0i13i10i30j0i13i30.in0uYWu_byU Basically everyone that has one thinks they are the best thing ever. Yet everyone who doesn't have one is somehow still driving their truck everyday. My opinion is if it was necessary to maintain the engine until the end of the powertrain warranty period, GM would have already put on one for you. Since they don't, I don't think they are necessary.

bad ground connection on battery?

I just drove over 1000 miles down to Iowa and back and I was very close to 20 mpg on each of 3 tanks. (Both DIC and hand checked) I was cruising around 72 mph for most of it. 3.42 gears. My truck has an EPA rating of 22 highway. I believe the EPA test to determine highway mpg is done at below 60 mph. So it makes sense that they would get 2 mpg more at a slower speed. Anyway, it is known that the truck is not exact with its calculations. I wonder how much coasting throws it off. If you spend more time coasting that the average driver, the DIC often reads 99 mpg during that part, but that isn't technically accurate. No one seems to know the algorithm that the computer uses, whether its a sum of all the instantaneous readings, or what. But doing the math yourself is more exact for your driving- miles driven/ gallons burned. But that also includes any amount of fuel you waste cold starting, idling, remote starting, or otherwise sitting in traffic. So even though your engine is running, if you are not moving, that fuel doesn't contribute to your moving fuel efficiency. The calculation is more representative for your cost of ownership per mile than actual fuel efficiency of the vehicle. The longer your average trip, the more accurate the number should be due to less idling and cold starts.

I've been doing hand calcs on most tanks with my 2015 and its nearly always within .25 mpg of the DIC. (granted, the DIC is always higher) I've also seen others report that the new '19's are spot on.

I thought this was long proven to be an old wive's tale. It was based on the idea that you are paying the same price for less fuel when its warm and you get a better value when its cold. Fuel is stored in underground tanks where the temperature fluctuation is much less than the air. Even if the temp did fluctuate, the density of a liquid doesn't change that much in normal atmospheric temperatures. if you don't believe me, here's some more sources: https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2008/08/save-on-gas-with-morning-fill-ups-don-t-bet-on-it/index.htm https://www.douglasvw.com/blog/is-it-better-to-buy-gas-in-the-morning/

At first I was going to offer to sell you a warm air intake. But then I thought about what you are saying. I don't know how much more fuel is actually used per engine cycle at 20 degrees vs 80 degrees. But I do know that colder, denser air = more compression = more power. So your engine may be burning more fuel per cycle, but its also creating more power, so I think that kind of balances out. You may be able to achieve the same speed with slightly less throttle in the cold. If you're going to blame poor economy on the air temp, don't forget that your cold, dense air is also creating more wind resistance & drag than warm, less dense air. At the end of the day, you just have to drive in whatever conditions you live in. Nothing you do to your truck is going to change that. The whole point of this thread is what can you do to maximize the fuel efficiency of a brick. I guess you have determined the answer is move farther south.

It's not the temperature affecting your mileage, it's the winter blend gas. "The US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) says conventional summer-blend gasoline contains 1.7 percent more energy than winter-blend gas, which is one reason why gas mileage is slightly better in the summer." https://newsroom.aaa.com/2013/06/what-is-the-difference-between-summer-and-winter-blend-gasoline/

Keep everything stock. Run highway tires. Drive the speed limit. Those are the only things you can do to get the best fuel economy possible. Anything else you change will likely cause worse results. Due to EPA requirements the motor companies are already squeezing every possible MPG out of the vehicle, so nothing you do will make it better. You are only fighting friction and wind resistance when moving, so avoid anything that changes the way air flows around your truck. (larger tires, lift, level, adding lights, etc.) I also agree that tuning won't net any better mileage. The point of it is for performance under high throttle. To get good fuel economy, you want to be cruising at like 10% of throttle.

Your list is not cut off. The last one is 636R, which is the paint code. They just don't provide the gear ratio code in the list anymore. See here -> https://gm-techlink.com/?p=9801 You would need to get the full build sheet from your dealer. Or possibly from someone at GM, but good luck getting someone on the phone. There was a GM customer care account on this forum a couple years ago. They actually e-mailed my build sheet to me, but i don't think they have been active in quite a while. I'd just call your dealer.

did you confirm that your winter tires perform the same way? that would remove all doubt.

so what is the verdict now that you have had a couple days with the lower air pressure?