aseibel

I thought you are supposed to loop the plastic "strap" over the hook and let the cap hang down. That's what I do.

I had a misfire on old GM 3.4 liter V-6 (2004 Grand Am) Took it to dealer where I purchased twice, first time they found nothing. Went back a couple days later and left it so they could do a cold start, they claimed I had a bad injector. Well, I paid for them to replace that. Next morning, same misfire. Finally I had a local (non GM) mechanic look at it and he figured out cracked head was letting coolant into that cylinder, hence the misfires in the morning. I paid him cash to replace the head with a junkyard part. Engine has been running problem free for several years since then. That experience really soured me to GM diagnostics. I wish they knew how to fix everything, but I'm telling you from experience, sometimes its just trial an error. Gotta start with the easiest/cheapest fix. it sucks.

Last week I noticed when driving into the garage, that one of my DRL/low beam lights was out. I have a 2015 with the halogen lights, separate high beams. I first read some old posts on here about how to get at them. No problem, I bought a new set of H11 bulbs and went to replace them. I put the new bulb in the driver's side first since it is easier, the new bulb worked. (that old bulb still worked as well). Then I go yank the air box out to get at the passenger side. put new bulb in. After reassembling everything I tested it out by turning on my headlights, and lo and behold, this brand new bulb does not light up. After inspecting the old bulb, I cannot see any sign of it burning out either, no black, nothing broken inside the glass. So my question is, would there be anything I can easily check that would cause this if it is a wiring issue? I'm not terribly worried about it now since I do very little driving after dark and I will be taking my truck in for an inspection right before my 36 month warranty runs out in June. Just wondering if this has been encountered before. I don't want to make a habit of replacing bulbs only to find out they are not the problem. Replacing the passenger side bulb is not fun.

Fluid film is supposed to go on bare metal. the instructions say not to get it on rubber as it can harm that. I don't know if I would use fluid film over the existing coating. But for bare steel? it works great. I put it on my plow in the spring. 3 years old, it looks like brand new yet.

powered a slow cooker on low setting while driving to a party. I also plugged in the air mattress blower/inflator.

you can still open and use the tailgate as a regular old fashioned tailgate with a hitch ball. you just can't drop the inner section for the step.

I once had the back passenger window on a sedan shattered overnight. I was in chicago visiting a buddy and parked on the street in front of his apartment. I just assumed it was some a-hole flatlander that smashed it in. But nothing was stolen or messed with in my car, (I never left anything of value in it) so I just got a replacement pane and moved on. Now after reading this, I am thinking its likely it might have been spontaneous glass-plosion.... weird.

Everything on my truck is factory original, except what I added, and the couple of factory recalls. Had it in for the 4 free oil change/ maintenance. If not for that my truck wouldn't have been back to the dealer once. I'd be more concerned about buying a used truck and how the previous owner took care of it/ modded it than I would worry about a small chance of a factory defect. for a 1-3 year old truck, the asking prices may lead you to consider a brand new one instead. Shop around and test drive anything you are consider buying.

Man, where was this kit 20 years ago when I was sitting on the floor building technic? does it actually work?

can you see marks when the lights are off? the photos you took show the lights on.

That's just where the intensely focused light is hitting the plastic cover. I don't think you have anything wrong.

You shouldn't need a second battery unless you are putting an extreme load on the system: huge audio system, plow, air compressor, etc. It seems like most of the people I have seen who's battery died extremely young live in the hottest regions. I think heat is worse for the factory battery than cold. I'm still on my original and no signs of needing a replacement yet.

Pen, business cards and gum. That's all I can fit in there. I agree that its a pretty useless space and would rather have somewhere to mount my phone. I'm following for any other bright ideas.

I built a cabin a little bigger than that on my buddy's farm. we did exactly what you are saying, with the concrete base blocks, but they are spaced farther than 4' apart. but only people traffic, no vehicles. (i assume you mean the blocks with the grooves in top, not just plain CMU's. https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/concrete-cement-masonry/construction-concrete-blocks/4x4-6x6-deck-block/p-1502778698449-c-5647.htm?tid=-3199910362987888040&ipos=13 Its been standing for over 10 years now and its doing fine. If i was going to build a shed to park a vehicle in though, I would really consider spending a couple hundred bucks on concrete and doing a slab on grade. it depends how handy you are and if you have access to equipment, but it could be done in a weekend. I think if you intend on driving a vehicle in there, that's the way to go. But if its just a garden shed, then I wouldn't hesitate to use those blocks. you mention the fact that your yard is level. I hope you don't just go set those blocks on top of the grass. I think you would be better off at least digging out the sod and putting some gravel down first.

bump

1) I don't know that this wire really limits the output amperage. It can't hurt to make it bigger, but i question whether it actually changes anything. 3) don't waste your time moving the plow power cables. since your battery terminals are directly connected already- it makes absolutely no difference which end the plow is connected to. Your two batteries now operate as one battery with double the amp-hours.

I had the same wiring setup on my 1998 plow truck. ran great. not much noticeable drop in voltage with operating the plow. I was able to find some 2/0 cables at my local farm/auto/garden store. (That was before amazon.) https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/deka-commercial-duty-battery-cable/0000000038129?Ntt=battery cable You can get all fancy with fuses and isolators, etc. It may save you one battery if the other one dies. Remember that if one battery is shot, it will kill the second. But if you put 2 new ones in together they will work fine for a long time.

So you bring up a great point- the manufacturers tune the engine in such a manner to avoid catastrophic failure and the associated warranty claims. So can you tweak the fuel and timing to get more out of the engine without compromising the powertrain warranty? If the dealer knows you tuned your engine at all, are you now on your own for any repairs? I have no interest in doing anything foolish that leaves me liable for repairs. I know a lot of people do make modifications that render the warranty useless, so some may not care about that. But if you can point me to a safe tune that does indeed increase fuel mileage, I'm all ears.

Don't waste your money. GM is already trying to get all the MPG out of these trucks from the factory. Tuning is for people that like to make noise and burn rubber.

my bad. Definitely under warranty = dealer's problem to fix.

a 2015... aren't you still under warranty? If so, its up to your dealer to diagnose and fix. Unless its more inconvenient for you to drive to a dealer than work on it yourself, I'd make them figure it out. At least then if it fails later, you have a service record for it. If you temporarily fix it yourself and then the starter goes out next year, then what?

yeah, I live on a town road that was just chip sealed this summer (same thing as you are talking about) But the road is paved with asphalt beneath. I'm just saying, I would not pay for tar to be applied to a loose substrate, no matter how well its compacted. just my opinion. I would wait and save up for asphalt in the future. and when you do asphalt, make sure you have a good thick gravel base under the entire area, or that will sink, bulge & crack in the spring as well.

unless i don't understand what you are trying to do, i don't think putting down tar on a base of just gravel will hold up beyond 1 year. The point of tar is to seal the layer of asphalt below it. if you don't have a sold layer of asphalt beneath it, the tar alone isn't going to hold your gravel together very long. recyled asphalt is a pretty decent driveway base. I think if it was me, I'd just get another load or 2 and grade/fill-in/level your existing drive. But without seeing it, i don't really know.

You want to tar and chip right on top of gravel? I don't know how that would hold up in the spring when the ground is soft. I have a long gravel drive with screenings, or 1/2" gravel with fines. in the summer its as hard as concrete. But in spring its a little soft. I presume your problem is with the plow pushing gravel into the lawn. I just don't scrape it clean until the ground is frozen. If we get a big snow storm before its frozen, I either drive on it and pack it down or plow with the blade up a little bit. I have minimized my gravel in the grass. Still a little area I have to rake every year where i pile it, but not the whole length of my driveway.

The main thing to look at is your main fuse panel under the hood. You probably have a bunch of blank spots in there. Check the numbers and look for those aux switches. Even if you have a wiring harness to the switches, they won't do anything if there is no fuse/relay on the back end. I was hoping I could install it in my LT, but my fuse box is missing those items.