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pm26

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Everything posted by pm26

  1. Sorry, I did not read your first post carefully enough.
  2. Would drilling a drain hole solve the problem?
  3. I wonder if your driveshaft was also balanced wrong (or not balanced at all).
  4. Years ago I had vibration in my 1995 Nissan pickup that felt just like tires badly out of balance. It turns out that the driveshaft center support bearing rubber bushing got torn and the driveshaft was free to vibrate. I found the problem myself just by inspecting the driveshaft and being able to physically move it up and down about 1/2 inch. $ 110 later for a new bearing assembly and some work, I fixed the problem. So yes, vibrating driveshaft can produce symptoms very similar to badly balanced wheels.
  5. I believe the battery warranty is 36 months/36k miles. You will get a new battery up to that time, but the new one will be warranted only for the remainder of your original 36 month/36k miles warranty. So if your original battery fails after 35 months, you get a month warranty on your replacement battery. I am not sure if mileage really matters, maybe it is just time because batteries are normally warranted for a specific period, not dependent on mileage.
  6. Could be a bad speaker or it could be a bad amplifier too. Or possibly someone miswired the system. Anyway, bumper to bumper warranty should take care of it. Assuming that the tech who gets to job can hear it.
  7. Very true. Devices like portable generators actually have a low oil shut down switch which will automatically cut off the engine if the oil level drops too low. this is to protect the engine which may run unattended for a long time. Normally cars and trucks ar e not equipped with such devices.
  8. It seems that some transmissions are unteachable. Especially ones assembled wrong or with defective components.
  9. GM has incredible ability to resolve a lot of vehicle issues by simply uttering these three magic words: "NORMAL" and "CANNOT DUPLICATE". How can anyone challenge such diagnostic prowess?
  10. This is the price we pay for being too lazy to use a manual transfer case lever.
  11. I would say run and try another brand instead. To me, this game of finding a truck that does not vibrate and hoping that the vibration does not start around 2500 miles, would be acceptable if they were giving them away free.
  12. Unless GM has changed the frame coating specifications for their frame supplier, there is no reason to believe that the issue has gone away. And changing the specs usually involves a contract change and this means spending more money.
  13. I believe blower motors have sealed bearings, I doubt someone just liberally pumped grease into them through some grease fittings and made a mess.
  14. It could possibly be a leak in the exhaust system somewhere. Maybe someone failed to tighten some exhaust clamp or bolts.
  15. The quality built into your truck demonstrates itself in many ways.
  16. Do you expect a rust free frame for a mere $ 45K?
  17. That's exactly what irritates me too. Where are the savings? I spent almost $ 30 to buy a license place light housing and lens for my truck from the local dealer and the stupid thing broke again in one year! The clips on its plastic body are too weak and they break. The part is a piece of junk and it is made in China. I bet the true manufacturing cost is about a dollar per part. And they have the nerve to ask $ 30 for this thing? It is the little black plastic housing with a lens on either side of the license plate on your rear bumper. After the second one broke, I bought an aftermarket one from Dorman, $ 9 shipped. Much better quality and has not broken yet. Another outrageously priced part was the tow harness receptacle made of plastic, for which GM wants almost $ 60! A two dollar part made in Mexico. I found an aftermarket one for $ 17 shipped and it looks exactly like the GM one, probably made in the same plant in Mexico.
  18. I know what you meant, of course there are ways to completely redo the frame to a like new condition. I am just expressing my dissatisfaction with how GM looks at car/truck quality lately vs profits. It is sad that they stooped to this level considering how much these vehicles cost. I have a 1985 Mercedes 300D turbodiesel sedan with factory RTV like material encapsulating the entire underbody, still in great shape and not peeling, and no rust.
  19. Higher standard? There is only one standard here - to produce these trucks as cheap as possible and sell them for as much money as possible, thus maximizing the profits. Everything else is just a myth. Remember, this is the company that has eliminated radiator petcocks and rear differential drain plugs just to save afew bucks on each truck. If they can save $20 per truck by not paying the frame supplier for cleaning and coating the frames properly before shipping them to the assembly plant, do you have any doubts as to why these frames rust?
  20. Apparently you made the mistake of buying the one with problems.
  21. Consider buying an aftermarket condenser and have an independent A/C shop do the work. You may be able to do this for 1/2 the quoted price.
  22. I have three GM vehicles at this time. I typically buy parts from the local Chevy dealer because I get the wholesale pricing. Almost every part I get, whatever it may be from a complete door panel (replaced under warranty twice) to a backup light lens are made either in China or Mexico. Many brake parts are made in South Korea. My experience with Chinese made GM parts sold by GM dealers is not good. Quality is hit and miss, some are complete garbage with ridiculous price tags. Korean made parts seem of much better quality than Chinese or Mexican made ones. It is not that every GM part made in China or Mexico is defective. As I said, quality is inconsistent and probability of part failure is therefore higher. And you will always have this phenomenon when you make parts in a third world country where you really cannot enforce consistent quality control if your primary goal is to get these parts as cheap as possible and you are willing to use cheap component parts to make the final product. Instead of being a tiring GM shill, look the reality in the eye for once and address the issue for what it is worth.
  23. I would rephrase your statement a bit. It is not normal at all for a decent quality A/C compressor to go out in 38k miles. My experience with later model cars and trucks has been at least 100k miles to A/C compressor failure, and even those which failed at 100k+ miles, the problem was always with the compressor clutch bearing. I blame shoddy parts quality that GM is using nowadays. I would bet that these compressors are made in China or Mexico and build quality is hit and miss. That does not stop GM from asking outrageous part prices for these parts. No doubt that the compressor component parts are also as cheap as possible. If they use a cheap clutch bearing and it seizes, you will need a new compressor clutch as they typically do not service just the bearing, although it is possible in many cases just to replace the bearing. The cost of A/C compressor clutch (if it is even available separately) often exceeds 80 to 90% of the complete new compressor cost). Which makes this option not very economical. If you replace the whole compressor, you must also replace the receiver/dryer, and often the expansion valve, and recharge the system, which incurs additional costs.
  24. I think you should have given them a fourth chance.
  25. Yes, there is an air bubble, except it is not inside the transmission.
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