CamGTP

If you have no issues with the coils now, don't change them. I believe there are ignition dwell settings that are going to be different between the two types of coil packs.

Sounds exactly like the oil pump that is a common thing on the 5.3/6.2's. It only happens on cold starts in the winter time for me. The variable oil pump is pumping itself back full of oil.

They have been on the market for 5-6 month now or more but I haven't heard much feedback about them yet. We shipped out lots of them this winter at my work and even installed a set on one of the work trucks. Probably have 10k miles on them so far and they look new still but I don't get to drive that truck. For sure the target is the heavy duty line for this tire.

It's impossible to help in any way without knowing what the check engine light is for. All trouble codes will be stored for a certain period of time. Even if the check engine light just went off the history of the code will still be there. You need to figure out what the code is, then see what the issue may be. Just because you don't notice anything, smell anything or see anything doesn't mean there isn't some sort of issue that you need to address.

A side by side picture of a half ton tank and a 3/4 ton tank would really help with seeing how it would fit in the frame.

If you turned the blower fan off does it climb? Makes me think that because it's only a 4 cylinder that it just can't keep up when at idle and if the blower fan is turned up high enough.

It's not normal if last winter my coolant temps stayed around 185-195 all the time and this winter it barely cracks 170. My parents have the same truck as me, theirs stays at or around 195 no matter what the temp is outside. I'm too lazy to change my thermostat and it's also cold. It can wait til spring time when it's back into the 40's.

My gauge is roughly in the same spot all the time unless stopped for a decent period of time. My thermostat is not working properly as I have HP Tuners and can watch my coolant temps. It used to stay up around 190-195 all the time and now I can barely creep above 170-175 on the open road. If I floor it and drive it hard it will get the coolant temp up to around 200 but drops like a rock down to 170 again.

I live in Minnesota and the roads aren't the best, I hear Michigan is worse. Any decent pothole is likely to bend/dent a rim. It was rare to see a dent 22in rim in the last shop I was in but 24's and 26's were a lot more common.

I know it's a standard feature on more and more vehicles nowadays. I see it all the time on newer SUV's but I'm rarely behind a new T1 truck to remember.

Yeah, I've run into that a few times but nothing that bad. My 2012 truck would fire right up, then bog and catch itself before returning to a normal idle. Having my trucks block heater on a timer helped because it still kept the coolant warm but didn't let it stay on the whole entire night.

You can't do that stuff with the these new controllers. Everything is torque based and I mean everything. Read this if you have time, it's the basic logic behind how the computer functions. You can't interrupt signals or piggy back off anything. Changing fueling and timing isn't so simple anymore. http://www.hptuners.com/help/vcm_editor_tuning_how_to_advanced_e78.htm

If the engine can free rev past 4,000rpm when you pop it into neutral while moving, it's not going to be exhaust related. Seems either calibration related or transmission related.

Is the profile picture of your truck with the aftermarket rims/tires? Was the computer re-calibrated for the change in tire diameter? 85mph is above the speed limit anyway so I'm sure some will have no sympathy for you lol.

You're positive it's a factory option on yours? Is there a sensor inline on the fuel feed line on the frame? Anything after 2014 was pretty much never a factory installed feature.

I'm in MN too, wonder when I'll get mine in the mail.

You'd have to purchase the parts to make it work. The dealership sells the fuel lines and sensor if you wanted it to be like a factory 2014 truck but what most do is just buy the sensor and plumb it into the fuel system back at the fuel tank. So you'd need the flex fuel sensor, fuel line connections. Extend the wiring for the flex fuel harness that is already under the truck. (may not be required on single cabs) Then a custom tune would need to done to enable all the flex fuel features and to properly dial the tune in. The factory 2014 trucks were rated at like ~25hp gain at the crank over regular fuel. I forget the real number but it's a okay improvement. And you trade that for fuel mileage because an E85 blend will get worse mpg. Overall with a proper tune and time put in I'd say 20hp with similar torque gain can be had with that fuel. I did this to my truck and my data logs report similar data. Headers have a huge variety, there are many companies that make them. You can spend as little as like $350 all the way up to $2,000+ for headers. Price does not mean better performance, mainly in fitment and quality of metals/design. Cheaper headers also won't come with cat converters, so passing emissions or just not wanting to smell like rotten eggs and unburnt fuel is something to think about. Having cats also keeps the exhaust quiet, cat-less exhaust will be stupid loud on just about any muffler combination. Power gains will always vary because of where you live, what fuel is used, how good the tune is etc etc. Figure it's worth 20-30hp in the mid to upper rpms as it tends to shift the power band up in the rev range. Between those two things there is a potential to add 30-40hp. Also there isn't a place that says this mod does "X' horsepower gain, there are just too many variables. It's all ball park figures.

Maybe 10-15hp from what your done so far. Those handheld tuners don't really let you achieve the most from a tune because it's just a premade dealio you flash in. Convert the truck to run E85. Add some headers. Everything else now is going to costs big dollars, there is no more cheap added horsepower. Plus anything more will want a custom tune done, no more bully dog tuner.

I'm all for the guy wanting to mod his truck but the first few posts didn't help him any. No budget, no goals, no desire to search the WORLD WIDE WEB for parts. Simple things like "silverado supercharger or turbo kits" would have lead to something. silverado "mods", camshafts, exhaust etc etc all would have brought something up. God forbid it took a few hours over the course of a few days to sift through stuff to get a grasp of it.

Many of us have been around the game long before these direct injected engines. It's just that some may not want to do someones homework for them is all. ?

C'mon guy, we are not your parents. Pull up your ****ing pants and do some leg work on your own. Just google this stuff because I take you've never modded a vehicle before. There are hundreds of vendors out there for buying stuff. You just need to know exactly what you want and your budget. If you wanna blow $10,000 like it's going outta style, call up summit racing or something because they will gladly sell you anything you want even if it will make the vehicle worse off.

The stock 6L80e will handle 500-600hp easy. He says he wants this to be all motor, no way in hell he even comes close to touching that. Educate yourself on the direct injected engines. You'll find that a few of the things you talked about are not really needed for a 5.3 all motor setup on pump gas.

It should be fine. I have the airaid intake tube on my 2016 and it looks just like his aluminum piping. I own HP Tuners and even with watching data logs, nothing needed to be done.

Figure out which bank and note it. Then swap front o2 sensor side to side, if the problem follows you have a failing o2 sensor.

O2 sensor movement is suppose to switch up and down rapidly, that they how they work. 450mz is stoich and they will switch lean and rich of stoich to correct fueling in real time. You should be more concerned with your fuel trims, if that scanner can watch fuel trims see what they say. Normal operation is probably +/- 5-8% of zero on both banks. You'd know if you have a problem if the fuel trims are super negative at like -20% or if the fuel trims were super positive at +16% or more. Doing the intake gaskets should have stopped the lean code from coming on if you have no other issues with exhaust leaks or a bad o2 sensor. If all that checks out you maybe have to go into it more. Like doing a crank/cam relearn. Doing a compression and leak down test.