CamGTP

O2 sensor movement is suppose to switch up and down rapidly, that they how they work. 450mz is stoich and they will switch lean and rich of stoich to correct fueling in real time. You should be more concerned with your fuel trims, if that scanner can watch fuel trims see what they say. Normal operation is probably +/- 5-8% of zero on both banks. You'd know if you have a problem if the fuel trims are super negative at like -20% or if the fuel trims were super positive at +16% or more. Doing the intake gaskets should have stopped the lean code from coming on if you have no other issues with exhaust leaks or a bad o2 sensor. If all that checks out you maybe have to go into it more. Like doing a crank/cam relearn. Doing a compression and leak down test.

Are you going to PPF the sides of the trucks to stop the rock chips or put on flares? Sad thing about doing gears is that it will costs you an insane amount of money just to re-calibrate the computer correctly. And that's on top of the cost for new gears.

Needs 4.88 gears stat. Must be painfully slow now lol.

Oil in the intake is normal because the truck has the PCV hose going into the valve cover on the drivers side. The oil mist over time will make it's way into the intake, they all do that. The factory gaskets are orange if I remember right. The new ones are green and if the color didn't change some are still orange depending on who makes the new gasket.

I answered your question already Scott, a few posts up about why they leak. Bank 1 is drivers side, bank 2 is passenger side. EGR was phased out after 2000-2001 on the 4.8/5.3/6.0's.

It's a rubber o-ring style gasket, they flatten out over time along with all the hot/cold cycles. It's going to cause a leak someday.

No not really. Investigate the lean code. Could be anything from the intake gasket leak to an exhaust leak on the exhaust manifolds before the o2 sensor. Intake gaskets are easy, (to me anyway) there are tons of video's on youtube about how to replace them. You can clean the throttle body and MAF sensor with the proper cleaners while your at it too.

There isn't one. The returnless fuel system as the regulator built into the fuel pump.

Being that you need to use an unlocked computer, doubtful anything will come along that is a plug and play deal. $1900 if you wanna use HP Tuners yourself.

It will be fine, lots of people on here run 5W20 and 5W30 synthetic without an problem.

Use a mulitimeter on the plug, see if you have power at the socket. From there you could see if you have power further down the line at the harness plug in.

There are minor difference between the years for the 5.3/6.2's. I believe most of it is at the mechanical fuel pump and sensor/wiring to it. If I remember reading right the 2014-16 are 4 pin and the 2017+ are 3 pin. Here is the video. So finding a engine from the correct year should be done.

HP Tuner forums is good. A some good info on there about tuning those transmissions.

"The Tuning School" offers books and courses you can take in person. You can also purchase books and courses by Greg Banish from his stuff called "Calibrated Success". I used his stuff back when I bought HP Tuners around 2012ish. Everything from then on has been hands on experience and tons of reading/sifting through forums and internet articles to get a grasp of how things worked. Learning on the newest of trucks/cars is going to be tough as there is just so much to take in at once. I don't know how much is out there for 8 speed information but the 6L80e has far more information for getting to know that transmission. Very few things have to be done to make it do what you want.

The 160 thermostat is going kinda suck in the dead of winter if it gets really cold where you live. No doubt the tune and such makes these trucks run/drive better but those hp/tq numbers are kinda skeptical without a dyno graph. Those are going to be crank horsepower "estimates" because it's 420hp stock minus drivetrain loss. So maybe 360-380 at the tire. I just don't want future readers to start drooling at the mouth when they read 460hp and over 500 ft/lbs of torque.

No. We are still talking two completely different generations of engines here. The GEN 3 engine from 99-07 was both cable and drive by wire but now we get deep one why this swap is stupid and a waste of money. The GEN 3 engine is a 24x crank trigger where as the GEN 4 (07.5+) are 58x. The camshaft trigger is a 1x on the GEN 3 and 4x on the GEN 4. The camshaft sensor on the front cover of the GEN 4 and not in the rear of the engine like the GEN 3. The knock sensors are in the valley under the intake of the GEN 3 and the GEN 4 has them bolted to the side of the block on each side just above the oil pan. So to make this work it would involve tons of work with swapping parts over. Drilling and taping the block for the knock sensors. Having to take the crank to a machine shop to swap reluctors. Buying a new 3 bolt 4x cam gear and other stupid stuff that just costs more and more money. At this point you could have bought the correct engine or just rebuilt/fixed the engine in the truck and been further ahead. Last point, the 1999-2002 trucks use a P01 computer. 2003-2007's use a P59 computer. 2007.5+ use a E38 computer with the newer CAN-BUS systems. You can not program a newer computer to run an older generation calibration. So yep, nope.

Backing into the garage is a pain in the ass lol. If I park in it, I have to pull in at an angle and cut the wheel back to the right some so I'm straight, then back out in reverse order. Too much work to reverse up the driveway and squeeze it in.

Thanks for taking me around the shop though, sure did get learned. I mean I've only been tuning with narrowband and wideband o2 sensors for like 8 years now, I think I got most of this down.

Here is just a little proof that "GM does set the stoich ratio to 14.1". I understand the 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel for 100% gasoline, it's just that they do not use 100% gasoline in the calibrations anymore because everything can be up to E10 at the pump on regular 87 octane. GM doesn't set a +/- for the fuel trims, there is no table within the calibration for that. As said the 02 sensors/fuel trims only report what is going on in the exhaust. These are narrowband o2 sensors and .450mv is what we consider to be stoich. The sensors will show it swinging lean and rich of that value and the trims will show you the work being done to reach that. Be it a negative value or trimming fuel or positive value of adding fuel in real time on the fly. The main problem I have with people running these mixes is that there is far more to the picture than just what the o2 sensors do. When the E85 sensor shows a higher alcohol content in the fuel, it's changing the commanded stoich or lambda value in the tune. Which also changes the injector functions and timing, it would also change the timing and commanded fueling under certain loads and full throttle. That is stuff that can't be controlled when it doesn't know what is going on.

Still not going to happen if you ask me. Real tuning means actually being able to use a computer program to alter the physical tables within the calibration to get a new outcome. There will be no camshaft swaps, supercharger installs or anything like that with the Scorcher product because it takes tons of time to properly data log and calibrate the fueling model and torque model for changes such as those. No flash tuner can give you that as that type of product can't do those complex changes. Nor will AFE have tons of their staff on a on call basis so people can get these changes done nor will they be there when a truck is on a dyno to do email tuning. If it's anything like the description on the 2.7 Turbo engine, it's a plug in device that intercepts various sensor signals to make the engine produce more boost and give it more power. These trucks have been on the market for over a whole year and neither of the two major tuning companies have come out with something to offer. HP Tuners and EFI Live have both said nothing and that's saying something. Just shows you how locked down GM's newest stuff is because HPT has already released tuning support for the new mustang and the new Ford 250/350, both of which you can't even buy yet lol.

There is no sensor and if the truck is not E85 equipped, even the virtual sensor is set to disable. That is done even on the K2XX trucks. GM has also been setting stoich to E10 ratings of 14.1 since 2014ish. The way the computer can still try to achieve stoich is through fuel trims. It can sense that something is different with the E85 mix that some people run but it can't tell the actual alcohol content. Fuel mileage is still going to be less because of the fact that the computer is smart enough to use the fuel trims to make it run good. Saying 10-15% increase in power is a stretch. I'd have to go back the wiki page for exact numbers but I believe GM rated the GEN V 5.3 engine at 355hp and 383hp on E85. That is an increase of only 7-8% and that is on real E85. The torque increase is the roughly the same at 6-7%.

My favorite is the people that will go home early too instead of finishing the 8 hour shift and then wonder why their check is $100+ less. I'll be damned if I just give up money like that. I don't care if my days worth of work didn't make it out to 8 hours, I will either slow my day down and not rush or I'll get back to HQ and help around until my shift is over. Like today I worked an hour extra because someone could use my help. Tomorrow 10/26 is my first day off since the like the 11th of this month. Worked extra to fill in for someone else and gave up personal time, got a full extra day of overtime plus my overtime from the week prior. We even had a older guy quit recently because they wanted him to work a Saturday... he decided to retire early instead of stooping to that level.

I have the same truck, 2016 crew cab short box but it's lowered and has stock mirrors as well. From the license plate frame in the front to the rear bumper is roughly 19 feet exactly, give or take an inch. The garage at the house is 21 feet 8 inches long so we have plently of room if I get pretty close to the wall. You should have plenty of room for length and the width is more than enough at over 11 feet wide. I would do the dummy proof stop stuff like either a string from the ceiling or you can buy those floor bump stop things so that you can slowly run up on it and feel when to stop.

The RPO codes are in the upper glove box. Then find the RPO code for the gears and that will tell you. https://d354nuoz4t18d4.cloudfront.net/151587b49e7f6970ff59f6f339b177de/images/custom/rpoCodes.pdf GU6 is 3.42's GU5 is 3.23's GT4 is 3.73's. Those are most common gear ratio's on a half ton.

It is functional on the duramax only. I haven't seen any companies making 6.6 intakes yet, the trucks have only been on the market for like 2 full months now.