That is exactly what I needed! I greatly appreciate the information! I'm a firm believer in backing in almost everywhere I go, so the backup camera will help a ton getting into a garage as well. Right now, my garage is only 19', so getting this thing to actually fit in a garage will be a new thing for me lol.....
Hey All - We are looking at a new house with a 2 car attached garage and a separate 3rd car garage. We have 3 vehicles, and My worry is being able to fit my truck in the 3rd car garage w/ measurements of 11'8W x 20'8L I've searched all over for legitimate measurements on my truck, but all I can seem to find is length w/o bumper, and width w/o mirrors. I honestly don't understand why they would base the length and width on this, but I'm not Chevrolet. It looks like the measurements on some sites that don't specify "without bumper" or "without mirrors" still match the ones that do specify them..... Anyway - Does anyone have, or know where to find ACTUAL measurements on their truck as it sits? Specs - 2016 Silverado 1500 crew cab short box (5'8) 2.5" level, 33s, factory 1500 mirrors (not tow) Thanks in advance!
Hey all - I know everyone’s trucks are different, even from the factory, and I’m not super versed in the world of suspension geometry. I’m at 2.5” level w/stock UCA, and wanting to go up to 3” with cognito UCAs. Can someone take a look at my current CV angles and let me know how they look now? Just wondering if the additional .5” would really affect the CV angles that much. I know the new uppers will definitely help with the arm angles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That absolutely makes sense. Thanks for the info. I’m actually running 1.5 BORA spacers now and haven’t run into any issues with them luckily and no rubbing on my stock UCAs anymore with 33x12.5. I’d like to keep the ride quality as good as I can (while knowing it’s not going to ride like a Cadillac). Also the cognito uppers are the exact ones I was looking at. Couple questions for you - 1) how do you like that zone 1.5” body lift? Any noticable changes in the ride, or noticable gaps in the bumpers? 2) how do full kits (for instance the zone 4.5) thwart the issue of crappy CV angles? Thanks again!
Hey all - trying to get a feel for my options here. Currently leveled 2.5 on bilsteins, factory 20s and 33s. want a little more height to run 35s comfortably (due for tires soon). Thought of 2 options that may work with my bilsteins, both inclusive of new UCA. 1) 2.5” top spacer and setting my bilsteins on the first setting (.75), netting around 3.25 + new UCAs. 2) running zone 4.5 with bilsteins set at 0 + new UCAs. Is there any blaring negative to running the option 1 setup? Would any other components wear like crazy even with new UCAs?
Just wanted to provide an update for anyone who may experience this issue moving forward - After a little more research - I found that there is a service bulletin from GM around this issue, and it seems to be very common in 2014-2017 GM full size Trucks/SUVs. There is also a class action lawsuit against GM for safety issues, around them continuing to install knowingly faulty brake components on their vehicles. Dealer persisted to say that my truck not having the stock suspension and having 33s was the issue that my power brakes were not working. They also stated that this will not be covered under warranty after they "fought with the warranty company for 4 days". (I actually called the 3rd party warranty company myself and they said there was no claim associated with my VIN#). They then told me that they needed to replace my brake booster, vacuum pump, master cylinder, and all associated hosing/connections - costing me over $2,000 out of pocket. Needless to say, I picked my truck up immediately and brought it to a buddy of mine's shop. ** Issue was bad Vacuum pump **. Luckily I caught this before it could in turn damage the brake booster, causing more issues. My shop replaced this, and got this covered under my 100k extended warranty. My only out of pocket cost was my $100 deductible. They also checked all other components to make sure they were functioning as designed. I've had the truck back for about 24 hours now and (knock on wood), everything is functioning as it should be, and I haven't seen the issue that I once saw every time I drove the truck. Moral of my story? Never trust your dealership. They will try to screw you all day long. That is, until they run into someone who knows their shit, does research, and that they cant take advantage of.....
I've got mine at the dealership right now for the same issue. The service tech is claiming that the weight of my wheels and tires is what is causing this, which I think is absolutely bogus. My truck is leveled with OEM GM 20s and 33s. probably 10 lbs/each heavier than stock (tops). I asked them to throw some takeoff wheels and tires on and see if it persists, and they said the only way they could be sure is if I take my 2.5" level off too and bring everything back to stock. Crazy right? Why would the slight change in suspension geometry have ANYTHING to do with the ABS system functioning correctly at low speeds? Another huge issue is they say that this will likely NOT be covered under my 100k warranty because though they can replicate the issue EVERY SINGLE TIME, they can't prove that there is any "failure of parts". Someone please help with ideas. I feel like I'm in a parallel universe right now....
Hey all - looking for some opinions here that I couldn’t find reading through countless 5100 threads. My ‘16 is set right now at the third setting (1.26) with a 1.25 top spacer totaling ~2.5. I’ve read 3” + is a no go for geometry purposes, but want to get another 1/4 inch or so, getting to ~2.75” (without doing a full lift) because I do have slight rub now. With keeping/increasing ride quality in mind, here are my proposed options - 1) second setting at .75” + 2” top spacer 2) stay third setting at 1.26 and switch from 1.25 to 1.5 spacer 3) top setting at 1.85 and + 1”spacer. All of these giving putting me about spot on where I’d like to be Im not too versed on spring preload, etc. so that’s where my slight confusion of spacer vs adjustable assembly comes from. Any my advice on the best overall setup is appreciated.
Good to know. I love the ride quality of these things, but don't want to spend an arm and a leg on a full lift kit with upgraded shocks since I already have them. I guess my next question would be - (ride quality aside), could it be done without compromising the integrity of any of the other components? If I have the geometry correct from the standpoint of buying new UCAs.
Hoping someone can assist me with my question here, as I don't think this has come up often. Just to preface - I've got a 2016 Silverado, leveled with Bilstein Adjustable on the 1.25" setting. Love the way the Bilsteins ride, but would like to go slightly bigger (moreso than the top bilsten setting which is roughly 1.75) Could I run a 2 inch top strut spacer on my Bilsteins (putting me around 3.25") ***with new UCAs*** and a bigger block in the rear , without running into any issues? Will the adding of the top spacer vs. the bottom put any damper on my ride quality due to any preload? Any advice is appreciated!
Damn - sorry to hear that! I'm trying to remember the exact process I went though. But I'm pretty sure it is as follows - 1) Adjuster estimated cost of repair (much lower than it cost of course) and sent it to both insurance companies. ' 2) I then took that estimate, as well as my truck to my body shop of choice. The body shop then provided a quote on what the repair would be. Ended up being 1900 vs the 390 that they wanted to give me. The shop I went to, actually contacted the insurance company for me and provided them their quote. 3) Everything was agreed upon, and the repair (fender replacement w/ paint in my case ) was made. 4) Once everything was completed, I contacted their insurance company, and started speaking about diminished value (my truck only had roughly 10-12k miles on it at the time which worked in my favor). They allowed me to submit a claim, had to fight a little, but my experience wasn't too too bad. 5) About a week or so after, they called me asking for my bank account information so that they could auto-deposit a check into my account and verbally told me what they were giving me. They sent me a confirmation email with a picture of the deposit transaction, and it came through to my account a few days after. Hope this helps!
Completely agree with that statement! However, I went a test drove a 2014 SRT8 Jeep the other weekend, and I was offered a surprisingly high amount for trade in from a dealer (only1500-2k shy of private party blue book) which seems like it wouldn't happen very frequently. Though the trade in value was high, and that Jeep is a monster, just couldn't part with my truck....
This actually turned out surprisingly well. I was able to fight through a diminished value claim, (which honestly wasn't too bad), and the total that we agreed on with the other party's insurance company was pretty fair. Still sucks that I may get dinged reselling, but at least I was paid out enough to make up a portion of that potential loss.
Saw this beaut outside of my office today. Wondering if anyone can give me an idea of what size this may be, because the stance was perfect. Mine has a 2.5 inch level with 1 inch bigger rear blocks on 33/12.50/20, and it had more clearance than me. I seriously doubt it was a 6 inch though. Sorry for the crappy iphone pic FYI - these were also 33/12.50/20
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