Transient

Agreed. 5 years to just get approval to come to this country is too long. Then they have to go through the process of becoming residents. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I've heard the issue was semiconductors Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

The shrinking population creates another man-made problem, thus why the swamp is taking the actions they are. In order for social security, etc to be sustained we need a birth:death ratio of 2.1:1. Last I checked we're at 1.7:1. I have no faith in government, and don't expect social security to be around when it's my time to retire. What they're doing wreaks of desperation. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Our season never stops. It's year round. Maybe that's why my son's team has produced many pro players, such as Bryce Harper. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

A Colorado Extreme with a twin turbo V6 would make more sense than a V8. The first green Colorado chassis was not meant to have a V8, so they had to notch it in order to cram the 5.3 under the hood. Assume the same with the current generation. About a year ago The Fast Lane truck asked a GM senior executive about the possibility of a Raptor fighter. The only words out of the executive's mouth was, "The Raptor is dead." Furthermore, Chevy has been testing a Silverado in Nevada at an offroad racing event called Mint 400. The test mules have supercharged 6.2 V8s and larger multimatic socks on it like the Colorado ZR2 has. Is love to know which supercharged V8 is under the hood. Could it be pumping 750+bhp? It was allegedly going to debut in 2021, but COVID pushed it back to 2022. GM has event it needs on the shelf to do this. They just need to do it. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I had a bad experience with a Chevy dealership body shop. They were so bad that State Farm dropped them from their preferred shops list. Now, a Chevy dealership with a body shop is a plus, but it's a benefit that's way down the list. I look for other things like certifications, service recognition, whether or not insurance recommends them, etc. Also keep in mind that one company will have several makes of dealerships under their name. They may also have a body shop. That doesn't mean they specialize in a certain make of vehicles. You need to investigate. Even though they have a Chevy dealership, they may not have Chevy certifications. For example, they may also have a Dodge dealership and specialize in Dodge repairs. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I'm in San Diego. My son plays travel baseball. Due to state restrictions we've been going to Arizona monthly for tournaments. Yuma, Phoenix, Lake Havasu, etc. One of my son's teammates rolls to practice in their parents Tesla. When we go to Arizona they borrow a family member's Yukon. Lake Havasu is 300 miles, and they don't believe their Tesla will make the trip due to the mountains. People aren't going to buy HD trucks because their electric car won't make a trip. They'll just buy another brand. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I recommend this. You'll be able to compress the spring while it's still in the truck in order to get the nut back on. https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/strut-tool Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

This Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Pic of positive connection to battery. This is where the dealership installed the lightbar, so I left it alone. Only thing I did was reroute the wire due to the auxiliary switch install (200 amp fuse, 60 amp fuse, and bolts and plate) taking up the space where the fuse originally was. It's a tight fit, but it works. Pic of negative connection for light bar I'm only running the 2 connections because I'm only running the light on 1 switch at full power.

I have absolutely 0 electrical power with the lightbar disconnected. I can't unlock the doors, no readout on the DIC, no engine startup, etc. Reconnect the lightbar and everything works, except for the truck being able to start without a jump. Working theory in my mind is the battery is damaged internally and unable to product the required cold crank amps to start the truck. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I bought this multimeter last night. Moved it 4 clicks to the left for V. Black lead was in the center hole, red lead in the right hole. Checked the battery. With the truck off I got 12.4 on the reading. With the truck running I got 14.6. Then checked the alternator by putting red on the large cable running from the battery and black on battery ground while truck was running. Also got 14.6. Alternator is good? Battery is good? What could be the issue that's keeping my truck from starting without the assist of a jump box? Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Nobody said it wasn't okay to be human, however we must acknowledge our shortcomings and continue trying to be better. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Yeah, he has a whole thread on it. It sounds questionable though. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I did a instructed, but it read "1" before I touched the leads together. No tone, even when I touched the leads together. I'll go buy another multimeter and see what happens from there. Right now I'm thinking I damaged the battery with the way I connected the wires. My bad. Stupidity is about to run me over $200. Oh well. At least it wasn't worse. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Humans have always been the problem. As a whole, we're just not willing to accept it. Real change will affect convenience. People only want convenience. If it sounds good, people want it. Even if it is actually bad for you. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Do you want them with or without matching wheel locks? Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I was able to test the multimeter on my wife's Traverse when she got home tonight. She been driving the car throughout the day with trouble, so I think it's safe to say the battery was good. Unfortunately, the same can't be said about the multimeter. It read 0.00 on her car, too. I'll get a new battery for the multimeter in the morning. I have a market behind my house that I can walk to while my kids are doing their schoolwork on the computer. I'll report back when I have info. The working theory in my head right now is one of the cells in the truck battery no longer works. It's the only thing I can think of. Battery can't crank the starter, but the truck runs perfectly once it has been jump started. Battery gauge gives no indication of trouble. No lights, codes, etc. Even the cruise control works. Only thing I've noticed is the Auto Start/Stop is turning off the engine at traffic lights. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Thanks. The device turned on. I did as instructed and it read 0.00, and a "-" symbol flashing in front of the number. The probes were placed directly on the battery posts. However, in an attempt to rule out a battery issue with the multimeter, I went to change it out afterwards only to find out I don't have any spare square batteries. As soon as my wife gets home I'll get some new batteries and check again. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I have this. It was given to me by my brother several years ago. He's a mechanic, but lives in another state. He's also whiteout major health issues and is in no condition to help me. I've never used it, and don't know how to use it. I also have the wires/probes it came with. Just didn't take a picture of them. Sorry, but sure if that's what you're referring to. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

This just keeps getting more "interesting", and I'm even more stumped. I just disconnected both the positive and negative cables at battery for the light bar only. Prior to doing this everything worked, except for the starting not turning over and the lightbar not turning on. Now that I disconnected both the positive and negative connections to the lightbar from the battery, and disconnected the harness used to connect the auxiliary switches from the light bar main harness, I have no electricity in the truck. Jump box didn't detect the battery when I placed the positive clamp onto the positive terminal and negative clamp on the chairs ground post near the hood strut mount next to the battery. I moved the negative clamp to the negative post and it detected the battery, but still no electricity to the truck. Essentially, the lightbar is completely disconnected electrically, but it's the truck that has no electricity. It's as if the lightbar is supplying electricity to the truck. Here's what the fuse block on top of the battery looks like. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I did not. I'll have to check that. I'm letting my truck run right now to recharge the battery. I already changed out the connections as discussed earlier. Once I completed that I had to keep the battery on the jump box for several minutes before it was able to turn over the starter with the help of a jump. The lightbar still isn't lighting up with the engine running. Baja Designs said it has a processor that will prevent it from turning on if the battery is low, so I'm hoping that's the case. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Yes. Thank you. I really don't need the lower light setting. I just thought it would be cool to have. Due to living in California, the light bar has stay covered while driving on road anyways. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

What I'm attaching in this post is the best I can do with my phone. The first attachment is the whole document. The remainder are zoomed in portions of that document. If this doesn't work, please send me your email via private message and I'll forward you the document. The first Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Ok, so there's 1 mistake I made. I'll move the white wire to switch 1 and the green wire to switch 2. I'm not sure why this is draining my truck's battery though. Thank you for your help. It's very much appreciated. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk