Ian Mills

I am from Alaska. When I did the hubs I also did all new front brakes with Bosch rotors and good pads. It's possible that something went wrong with that but I was thinking that the noise would change when the brakes are applied if that was the culprit. The transmission is also brand new from a reputable shop. The noise only goes away under acceleration. I hope it's not the transfer case.

I did some digging in owners manuals. For 2003 and 2004 model years, the DIC included average and instant fuel economy. For 2005 and 2006, the only fuel economy in the DIC was the average. In 2007 they reintroduced the instant economy feature but maybe only on AFM trucks.

My truck had a bad front wheel bearing so I replaced both front hubs with moog units. The noise went mostly away but I still have a rotational chirping noise that happens under coasting and braking but not accelerating. I found excessive play in my passenger front axle (same side as the bad bearing) so I replaced both front axles with new (not remanufactured) parts but the noise is still present. I lifted the truck up and put the transfer case in neutral and I couldn't find and play in the universal joints or the diff. The differential has some weeping seals but it's not out of fluid or anything. The noise doesn't seem super affected by turning left or right. There's also sometimes a vibration that goes with the noise and I feel it in the floor and the pedals but that is not consistently present. I'm kindof stumped. Ideas?

There is a spring that pushes the lever towards the front of the vehicle and it does break. I had one go bad. I think this is the part number for your vehicle too but definitely verify that it fits before you buy it. GM 26034514

They're definitely not OEM. I just ordered a pair of OEM wipers and I will see if that fixes it. Stay tuned I suppose

So my passenger wiper blade doesn't touch for the last 2 or 3 inches on out outside/top except when the arm is close to vertical. This is not a new problem but it's especially annoying during the winter because ice builds up on the tip of the blade and then when you use the wipers it smears the passenger side of the glass with water instead of removing water. The blades are the correct length and new in fall 2020 (the old blades did it too). Increasing the pressure at the middle doesn't help. Is this problem unique to me? Does anyone have any ideas for how to fix it?

11.5 is low but not usually low enough to prevent your gauges from coming on. Have you checked the condition of your positive battery cable? They have been known to corrode internally which can cause the truck to be totally dead and then it reconnects when you jiggle the battery cable. Just a thought.

Side note: What brand of PSF do people recommend? I've seen a lot of conflicting information about which brands meet the standards that GM specified

If you can find fittings compatible with the transmission and cooler I'm sure it would work. You would just have to use a hose rated for high enough temp/pressure which could get expensive. Also, I live in Alaska and I haven't had this problem on my transmission cooler lines even in temps as cold as -40 F. For what it's worth, I think replacing your lines with new parts will help because the whole point of the rubber is that it's flexible. It might not last as long as it would in a milder climate but that's true of a lot of things.

So my truck is equipped with the shorter drag link and no steering stabilizer but I gather that some 2005 crew cab 1500s were equipped with the longer drag link and the stabilizer. What would it take to upgrade?

Wait, I have the full steering wheel controls and the DIC information center. I scroll through all the fuel options and I get average economy, gallons used, range, etc. but no instant economy

So back in the day my mom had a 2003 Suburban LT with all the bells and whistles including an "instant fuel economy" display that would update every second or two with an estimate of how much fuel you were burning (it was always a lot). Does anyone know if that feature was unique to the LT trim or a certain package or something. My 2005 Silverado LS Z71 does not seem to have this feature and I'm curious about it. Any info would be appreciated.

So the voltage gauge doesn't drop all the way to the bottom but it reads as low as 9.5v? Sounds like that might be the ticket. If that voltage reading is accurate, it could explain the loss of communication with the truck.

Yeah, with 167,*** miles I figured the original pump was on borrowed time anyways

RESOLUTION: Turns out the louder whining noise was the first symptoms of a failing water pump. Replaced that and we're back to normal

RESOLUTION: The sensor in the tank had corroded. I could have just replaced that but I went with a new Delphi pump assembly so I wouldn't have to open up the tank again soon (hopefully)

In short, not much changed between the 01 and 02 yukons. I'm very curious though about which book you got because I can't find a 99-01 yukon/tahoe/silverado/sierra Haynes manual online. I have a copy of the 99-06 book. Could you take a picture of the cover or the ISBN#?

I'm planning to replace my steering box and pitman arm on my Silverado. I know there are two different part numbers for these trucks and they have different numbers of splines on the output shaft but if I'm replacing both does it matter which box I get as long as my pitman arm and box match? Also, if it doesn't matter, is there one box that's better than the other? I've seen online that the 32 spline box is more expensive usually than the 33 spline box from a given manufacturer. Is that related to a difference in durability or strength?

A good top end clean and a new valve cover is a super easy fix and less than 100 bucks. If you haven't replaced the PCV lately I would do that. $100 is a good amount of oil but at the rate you're burning... lol

I had a bad wheel bearing so I already replaced both of those. I guess I'll replace the axles when the parts arrive and see where that gets me

There was. The updated Dorman brand part is 264-969.

Have you checked the universal joint and bearing on the front of the transfer case where the front driveshaft connects?

Another easy thing to do is to run a bead of clear silicone around the edge where the lens is sealed to the housing before you install them for the first time. Take your time and do it cleanly and it works awesome. I've even made cheap Ebay lights work with that trick

So my 05 Silverado developed a slight rubbing noise from in the front end that gets worse when I turn left and better when I turn right. Also, twice in the last week or two while turning left in 4wd there has been a loud popping noise with a little bit of a buck that I tentatively diagnosed as a binding CV joint. The axles look ok, no torn boots or anything, but they're old and both front hubs are brand new. I ordered a pair of new axles for the front but now I'm questioning things. Another symptom is that sometimes when I'm stopped at a stoplight and I put it in 4wd, as I pull away there will be a metal on metal clicking noise and the truck acts like it's in 2wd until the clicking stops. Once the clicking stops, 4wd works normally. Two questions: 1) Do you guys agree that it seems like it's the axles or do you have other ideas? 2) Bad 4wd actuator? Could the binding CV have caused that?

I know the old square body trucks had that exact issue. Over time, even closing the hood normally would cause the hood to fail right at the end of the bracket like that. Is that also a known issue with the NNBS trucks?