pokismoki

6l80 issues

maybe you just noticed the speed limitation ...it was probably detuned by who ever installed the lift, usually when you lift a truck the Driveshaft needs lengthening because the yoke slides out of the tailhousing due to the lift (simple trig equation), installer might of felt a need to slow you down before you blow the tail-shaft drag racing ... unless GM has access to the speed gov via GPS on the roof

you guys aint gonna win a class action against GM on the transmission issue. GM is forced to lower the lifespan of these trannies because they have to meet EPA emmissions and fuel milage goals mandated by the Feds in Washington. this is a wheelspin put out by lawyers looking for a buck. if you want reliability take the truck to a TUner, they will fix the issues, or call Blackbear for software upgrades.

yeah, leave the stock manifolds on the truck, they are tuned to increase torque at lower rpm, headers are for high rpm power . if you want headers use 1- 3/4" on the 5.3 motor, dont get sucked into the 1-7/8" your gonna loose toque i would remove the factory 3rd downstream cat, but keep the two upper cats, this shouldnt effect any CEL light, because i dont believe there in any o2 after the 3rd cat cut out the flapper valve if you got one after the muffler on your model truck.

if you go into the HPTuners software , there is a section for the AC controls, should be able to activate the electric fans earlier to cool the condenser faster this is also another hack way to activate the cooling fans to drop engine temps if your ecu fans tables are super high like on stock trucks

I get 135-140 at 70 degrees ambient and 156 in 105 F ambient heat. i didnt do a pill flip, i gutted mine and used a pipe plug to block the crossover area, maybe it has higher fluid flow using a pipe plug, instead of a flip ???

what size is our drain bolt?

people using low quality oil, and doing long oil changes (5-8000 miles) change the oil at 3k, otherwise it causes the rings to coke up and pass oil, causing oil consumption get one that hasn't had a lift kit get the 6 speed its cheaper for rebuilds, 8 speeds need tuning and handle more power but parts cost is insane for rebuild $5-6000 get 2014-2016 model years, it cost less to tune the ecu and tcu, vs the the later 2017-2019, need to have tcu unlocked $$$$1,000 unlock fee seat movement on the drivers side. if your a techy guy get the 8" screen, otherwise I prefer the dinky Work truck radio with out the bells and whistles #1 is remove theremostat from transmission immidiatly, then do a full trans flush with 2 gallons of GMs atf thru the cooler line then order the 175 t-stat for engine then order HPTuners with the required credits. cut out the 3rd cat but leave the two up front. remove flapper valve from muffler

you still run the DEF tank?

i just kept the stock manifold as they keep the power band lower in the rpm , I dont like revving a truck to make power, I would recommend cut out the flapper and cut out the California 3rd cat to free up the flow. then activate the Power enrichment function, and install an e85 sensor, then tune out the TCC function in 1-4th gear. this will make you smile for alot less money spent.

after tinkering with my slip tables on the TCC lock up, i found when in gear my truck likes 0 slip , but when in V4 mode and locked up, it vibrates and rumbles like crazy with zero slip, so i kept the 10-20 rpm slip in v4 , its smooth now. better yet just disable v4 and it will feel good with zero slip under Lock up in 4-6th gear there is no rumbles vibes, go figure?? seems the vibes might only come into effect when the TCC locks in V4 mode.. i definatly agree with the post above, , i feel like the truck is in its power band when you dont lock the converter and lug the motor down with lock up in 1-3rd gear, it really lets the L83 wind up and it feels like 20 hp upgrade for free.

i used to get the chuggle on the 6 speed when i was moding the slip parameters. when i set the v4 mode , in TCC lock I zeroed out the slip and it would chuggle and viberate a lot, , then i went back to the 10-20 rpm slip in lock up and the vibes went away.

i see no need for a cooler, just install a 170 t-stat in the motor, and pull out the tranny t-stat. i just pulled a 4000lbs trailer across the mojave desert this weekend, ambient temps was 109 degrees out there, I drove 150 miles @55mph the whole way, and the trans temp sat at 145-156 F, i used 5th gear and towhaul and disabled grade braking. Easy Japanesy! If you really want to add a cooler get the Max Tow package engine Radiator its bigger, and actually keeps up with the demand, I'm sure the trans cooler is also a nice upgrade if towing full time.

I have a remote filter on mine , just changed it after 3000mi and was getting brass glitter flakes, I'm at 50,000 miles, all stock and t-stat removed. I am concerned since i only drive it on weekends and never tow more than twice a year. gonna pull the pan on it soon take a better look. I have disabled the Lockup in 1-4th gears, so should be very little wear on the tcc, i think i'm having bushing issues instead there is a relearn function on these transmissions which corrects for leaky pistons and slipping, but only the dealer can do the relearn proceedure..

just wondering if any tuning shops have managed to dial in our gen 5 motors on an engine dyno? if so... what shop, i'de love to send in my ecm to someone who actually sat down and acomplished the torque based tuning in a closed cell...

fully warmed up my IAT is at 85F. ambient is 70 degrees , for a difference in 10F why bother if you want to blow money, you can get the hood from the diesel and the CAI diesel parts, this works well for ram air. hoods are 500 bux, and another 500 and change for the diesel ram air parts, paint and fab is another 600-800 bux. so $2000 those other kits will be prone to sucking in water and hydrolocking the motor

to clarify, "millis" I find, are attracked to techy gimmicks, and excesive endulgence

is this only on the 4x4 trucks?

call WAMS. he'll take your money and give you what you want...lol https://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/ or keep the $2000 in your pocket and buy a curt timer controler..

i've used the timer style for 10 years pulling trailers every other day, then recently tried Inertia, was very disappointed to say the least, it never put out enough brake force even maxed out,. but I love the timer units better, puts more brake power to the trailer, so less wear on the trucks brakes. if you need more stopping power just hit the slider, stoopid simple designs is what works best

i prefer the WT trim. the LT is what i got, and its not what i wanted , but the loaded trucks where selling cheaper than WT plane jane models i found my leather steering wheel is slowly faling apart, wish it was the WT rubber steering wheel. be nice to have rubber mats instead of carpets. i hate the 8" Infotainment crap, yuppy gadjets. like i said they where charging $38k for the stipped WT truck while the LT was $35k at the time of sale with red tag discounts on the msrp too many convenyances and bling are making our trucks look like they're buillt for millenial p***ss*ies

just buy s $40 timer brake controller, and the harness from curt brakes.. the inertia controllers are not as good as a timer style IMO WAMS.com can probably make it work , probabl $1200 to gain entry into the BCM

people want the older tech for service and tuning i guess, reliability parts are cheap

i wont even sit in a T1, damn thing is awfull looking, i'de go back to a pre direct injected, do a resto on myself. only thing good on T1 is the engine, nothing else is tuneable, just GM corporate crap now.. thye're getting us ready for EV garbage and GPS control systems on the next stuff. old and reliable. 90's trucks is probably a step in the right direction with late model LS..

curious to see results, i feel i know how it will turn out but post some clips