s10dragracer888

Hey Gangly, do you have a link to the one that fits our pans?

Hello all. I am a semi-frequent user of GMTrucks.com. I’ve had several cosmetic and suspension modifications to my truck (Bilstein 5100’s, roadactive suspension, hellwig rear sway bar, interior mods), nothing major in the drivetrain. I just crossed 50,000 miles, and it looks like yet another TCC failure (first one at 24,500 to 25,000 miles). It’s a 2020 Custom Trail Boss, 4.3. When the first converter failed, they ended up putting 2 thermal bypass valves in it. After the last TBV change, transmission never sees over 150°. What do I need to do to have GM put a better converter in my truck to prevent future hangups (sonnax, maybe)? How should I approach this to ensure I don’t keep losing my truck for weeks at a time? I don’t overload it, I don’t dog it, and the fluid still looks clean (changed with last thermal bypass valve at 30,000 miles, total fluid exchange and filter replacement). It seems like every 25,000 miles, I’ll be back for another torque converter. I don’t haul or tow frequently. When I do, it’s usually no more than a single axle utility trailer with some light household refuse, or an enclosed single wheel with a flat track motorcycle in it. Bike weighs 600 pounds. Tongue weight below the 1,760 payload rating on the sticker in the door. I’ve never gone more than about 40 miles when towing. Usually interstate or rural rustic road (55 mph and no traffic) Any suggestions? I really like the truck and don’t want to trade it in. It suits me for what I need, and I’ve put a lot of time and love into this machine.

No, the steering wheel, glove box handle covers, and the driver and passenger vent pieces are the only real carbon fiber, but all the panels are stick on. I’ve even got them on the dome lights and around the park button. It adds a little “flavor” to the interior of an otherwise bland setup. You can get them all in imitation wood grain too. Even with the synthesis trim on some (which I opted to keep, because it does look nice), the interior needed something to give it some color. The door handles and pulls, and trim around the vents and bits in the cluster just weren’t enough for me to leave it be. I even did some investigating and found pedal covers that looked like the synthesis color and installed them. It really makes the inside of the truck stand out. Combined with the leather dashboard, it makes for a real luxurious treat.

Try these. If you click on them, you should be able to zoom in.

I have all kinds on my 2020 trail boss. Amazon should have them. Between them, eBay, and tufskins. I also have a nice carbon fiber steering wheel.

Hey guys, I read in another post on this forum, and know from first hand experience that the 6.2 will push to about 112 before the limiter kicks in from the factory. I’m not sure about the 5.3. Before I owned my current T1, I owned a 2021 LT trail boss and it would easily do 112.

Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T 305/55R20 (33.4x12.3). Western Edge Gloss black, milled accents, 20x12, -44 offset. I have a set of 5. These tires do not rub with stock trail boss suspension (removed blocks in the rear), and I’m running the Bilstein B8 5100 trail boss struts up front, regular Silverado shocks in the rear. Rides really nice. The tires poke out 2” past a 2” flare. It was either fender lights or flares with more than 3” of protrusion, so thanks, Virginia, I’m running a fender flare instead of a light, because this truck is not a 2500.

MrMagloo, Thank you for your reply. I have to point out something. The weight distribution in an unloaded SUV is quite different than in an unloaded truck. The ride would be smoother with bags on an SUV with no load than a pickup, because your average SUV has a higher curb weight in the rear, naturally. I will agree with you about the RAS, because you are correct in your assumption. My load is usually consistent and doesn’t change much. Minimum adjustability is needed in my application. However, the purpose of RAS is to increase your towing capacity (although I’m skeptical of the accuracy of that claim) and it does, in fact, raise the rear, by about an inch….but when you set the system, it’s designed with a variable spring rate; with a higher load and more pressure on the rear suspension, it resists expansion more; thus maintaining ride quality when unloaded. When installed in tandem with the Hellwig sway bar, I’ve noticed a significant increase in maneuverability at higher speeds, and better load control when towing. Roman Merkushen, If you’ve read this far, I believe my reply to Mr. Magloo should answer your questions. Here is a link to the product on Amazon. (RAS®) RoadActive Suspension 4611-HD | Fits Chevy/GMC 1500 1990-2022 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MSKZWZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_OkatwEP9lUdTP To find the Hellwig Sway bar, just enter “Hellwig 7780” in the search bar, it’s available on Amazon. Several sellers stock it for the same price.

I disagree. The ride is rough when unloaded, due to a minimum pressure requirement.

I did one better. After doing the 5100 bilsteins all the way around, I found that RoadActive Suspension makes a bolt on kit. Took me about 45 minutes total to install. It helps with towing and stiffens the rear a bit (Also picks up the rear and prevents a good amount of squat). If you’re looking to eliminate some of the sway when turning, Hellwig 7780 rear sway bar. Best two things I’ve done to my ‘20 Trail Boss. You’re welcome!

So, here lately, I’ve added RoadActive Suspension, Powerstop z36 Extreme carbon ceramic pads and drilled/slotted rotors, and the Hellwig 1.125” rear sway bar. After the dual exhaust, these were the last things on my list to improve performance on my 4.3 Custom Trail Boss for towing my grandfather’s enclosed trailer and flat track Triumph TR6 to the track in the spring and summer. It rides really nice because of the Baja Boss A/T’s minimal road noise and the Bilstein 5100 shocks and struts….the engine sounds fantastic with a flow master Super 44 and 2.5” pipes singing from the back, paired with a K&N air intake (modified from a V8 application), and the interior is extremely comfortable, yet sporty with the leather and carbon fiber trim….paired with a storage console and high country instrument cluster and dash, I have no doubt that this truck is now truly a “Custom” Trail Boss. I love it.

Thank you, Mshawn. I can’t take all the credit. It’s not all my doing. I just installed the cover, adhered the magnet to the drain plug, and tapped the bung for the plug to go in deeper. Just as a bit of info I’ve discovered, I believe all the trail bosses between ‘19 and ‘21.5 have the same front differential.

I felt the sarcasm in my soul. The bumper hides them really well in photos. Not a speck of chrome outside of the taillight and headlight housings….

Ok, so I got a good shot in the morning sun. Let me know what y’all think.

I got mine welded up today. Due to photo size restrictions, this will have to do until I get a better photo in sunlight.

There are a LOT of things I’ve done to this truck. If you want a full list, it would take me a while to get it together but I think I could do it.

Unfortunately, they don’t make a Double Cab High Country pickup….so my door panels stayed the same… but I agree, the swap was well worth it. That passenger airbag can kiss my poop chute. Lol i just swapped the front plate of my steering wheel and added buttons and rear shroud. I went with a carbon fiber and leather flat bottom wheel, giving my truck a truly custom interior. I’m working on jump seat double tier storage console and carbon fiber plates for it. The wireless charger is in, too.

I ordered a set of 2 dual-outlet split tips to make quad tips. This was option number 2. They look great!

I cut them out myself. See the write-up above for details. Have a great day! If you choose not to read it, have a great day!

Yes.

I know I’m 10 months late to the party, but my 4.3 was knocking/pinging. Try some power foam through the intake, fuel injector cleaner, and a higher octane fuel. It fixed my issue right away. Also…get a catch can. valve coking on these direct injection engines is serious.

Hey I’m not sure. The opening is 9” wide at its drop off point at the bottom. Make sure that width will accommodate the ones you’re looking at; I’m sure you’ll find what you’re looking for. It’s about 6” wide at the top, trapezoid shaped on the face bar to 9” at the bottom ridge, then straight down. From there, cut at a 45° on the inside, bottom of the bumper if you’re looking up at it from the ground. If you need a couple drawings, I can lay it out, just PM me. I studied these bumpers and tips for the last week. I just cut my bumper using factory measurements and the factory dual exhaust tips fit pretty closely in there. I have a tiiiiiny bit of wiggle room. Maybe 1/16” either way.

I used Krylon Rust Tough bare metal high gloss black and topped it with clear coat, after sanding the edges and smoothing it down. I also scuffed the paint and blended it in. Disclaimer: a very close friend of mine did the sanding work, I’m a better cut man. When I say “I” did the sanding, it was him. I helped file and smooth the edges. I used the geometry of the bumper to lay out the cutouts. Heck of a coincidence it lined up perfectly with the steps on the corners and sides up top. I pulled tape and measured 3 times on the outside cut lines, then mirrored it over the center lines I laid out to get the inside dimensions. The centers of the cutouts actually measured 21.5” from center of the bumper. Originally, I used a 1” drill bit to try and drill the corners for a rounded look, but the problem was that I kept getting hammered by the drill. After using a compass to measure out the radii instead, I went short on my lines with a jigsaw (all was taped and marked so I didn’t accidentally erase my lines), and then used a grinder to smooth it out and get it real close. I then used a file and rough sandpaper to finish it out, clean up the edges, and scuffed my paint with sandpaper progressing from 320 to 2500 grit to match and blend. The bumper got new paint on the backside too. I was determined to make sure it wouldn’t rust. I’ve still got to wet sand and blend the clear (it’s still a tad dull), and after I get that right, I have high heat ceramic coating (Rust Oleum 2000° ceramic high gloss clear) to coat the areas around the exhaust for maximum protection. It was the same ceramic I used on my brake calipers; I also plan to use it on my split 3.5” black tips to prevent heat fade of the paint that comes on them.

No. I don’t think so. Had help from a friend and took several very meticulous measurements. Cut short and ground down to right size. it’s fine.

Within 500 miles of me, they’re $700+. If not that price, they’re in really bad shape. I’m gonna cut mine, and use 2 black dual tips.