Black02Silverado

I'm going to take my 2019 in and have the dealer exchange the transmission fluid with AMSOIL ATL here within the next month or so. I'm at 7,500 miles now and this is the same mileage I had it done on my 2002 silverado and our 2016 Suburban. I've had the fluid in my 2002 in for 100k and did a UOA and it was still in great shape. I just dropped the pan and changed out the filter and topped back off with fluid. I also tow a 4k lbs trailer monthly with it. Granted it is only a 4sp and I keep it in 3rd most of the time to keep from going in and out of OD on on the interstate but the transmission temp stays around 189°F this is with a stock trans cooler.

Why is it stating component type as a transmission and not the engine?

Nice!

Agree, only downfall is you can't clean the magnet.

Yes, the same as my 2002 Silverado which has a drain plug in the bottom of the rear diff. It sure makes changing the fluid an easy job.

I can get you a sample pump from AMSOIL. Looks exactly the same as this and works the same where the sample bottles screw to the bottom $25 for the pump.

Jay I can help you with any AMSOIL you would want I can even set you up as a Preferred Customer so you can purchase at the wholesale price. PM me if you are interested. I can send a quote delivered to your door.

One would think that an engine consuming oil would be a bad thing and that the EPA would step in. Consuming oil at 1qt per 2k miles or under for that matter I would think would poison the CAT's after a while. A reason that ZDDP and phosphorus were reduced to keep from contaminating the emission system. Another thing is the massive thread on here about catch cans. A major debate as to if it is needed or not and for those using one and the amount of fluid it catches over time is one way to prove the engine isn't operating at an optimum level in regards to burning clean. At least that is how I see it. If the rings were sealing properly there wouldn't be a need for a catch can. As with all things mass produced there are going to be issues. Not like they are put together in a NASCAR shop. I always wondered how long one of those engines would last under normal driving conditions. My 2002 Silverado 5.3 has been on a diet of 0w-20 and now 5w-20 to see how it would effect the UOA's. It basically hasn't really changed and it is spec'ed for 5w-30. My oil consumption this last run is half a qt in 8k miles. That is pulling a 4klbs trailer up and down the I-40 in 3rd gear with the tac at 3k for a solid hour and getting 8mpg. Plus it has 194k miles on it. Just throwing out some of my thoughts not saying anything is correct.

Not sure of other dealerships but the one here that I had and did my 2002 back when I first bought it in 2001. They hooked up to a fluid tank where the new fluid was in a bladder that got hooked up to the return line from the cooler and the supply line was hooked up to a bladder on top of the new fluid bladder. So as the old fluid flowed in from the transmission on pump to the bladder it put pressure on the new fluid bladder and helped with it to keep flow into the return line back to the transmission. So the whole process was done by the transmissions own pump and no issues of running dry. But then my 2002 doesn't have a thermostat on it.

It use to be synthetic in the back and not in the front but now in the new trucks it is synthetic in both. If you need to look up what yours takes you can do that on this look-up guide. 75w-90 Severe Gear is what I put in both of mine on my 2002 Silverado. The new squeeze packs make it a breeze and no mess.

Depending on your ring gear size it takes a different amount of fluid. You can find the information on the AMSOIL look-up guide. Notes: (1) Use synthetic axle lubricant P/N 88900401 which replaces previously recommended synthetic lubricant P/N 12378261 meeting GM Specification 9986115. Capacities: 8.60 RG Rear 4.2 pints Notes: (1) Use synthetic axle lubricant P/N 88900401 which replaces previously recommended synthetic lubricant P/N 12378261 meeting GM Specification 9986115. Capacities: 9.50 RG Rear 5.5 pints Notes: (1) Use synthetic axle lubricant P/N 88900401 which replaces previously recommended synthetic lubricant P/N 12378261 meeting GM Specification 9986115. Capacities: 9.75 RG Rear 5.9 pints So as you can see it goes from 4.2 pints to 5.9 pints. So if you got 3qts it would be enough to cover which ever one you have.

Just curious as to what engine you have and did you buy it new or used?

This is a completely new from the ground up design. As you can see in this video, there are so many different controls in/on this engine for the cooling system and oil that multiple things can happen. At least that is how I see it. From the electric water pump to how the system can go into max cooling. Which might be the case here where it is stuck in that mode. As for the oil pressure. The oil controls the cam for cylinder deactivation and has a high lift and low lift demand. So if that system has an electrical issue it could be calling for one thing but doing another if it makes any sense. So this little beast is so new, for me at least I would guess it might take a year or two for things to get ironed out. Heck, look at all the rear window leaks. One would think GM would have had that figured out by now but here we are in 2020 and still having them. Hopefully it isn't anything serious and they fix it quickly. Keep us posted. Go too 1:53 for the animation part of the engine.

No snow here and the main thing in our back yard is Opossums and Fox's.

All good answers above. How long do you plan on keeping your truck? Are you going to be going by the oil life monitor, "OLM"?

Nice! This is a perfect example of how easy it would have been to have this come from the factory this way. GM just doesn't care it seems.

Interesting. I have 71k on my Michelin LTX MS2's. Not the Defenders because this tires are 7 yrs old and just now getting down to the wear bars. Time to replace them. Rotated every 6 to 7k miles. It was a little squirrely towing the trailer back home on I-40 in the rain. Kept the speed at 60mph

Driving back from PA last week a nice big rock hit out Suburban windshield. So now the hunt is on for a new one. This looks like it isn't going to be inexpensive.

I'm pretty sure you have to go in and turn on the table part for E85 after adding the sensor. When I installed the sensor on our 2016 Suburban, BB wanted me to send them a log file after I installed the tune so that they make sure the sensor was working and the ECM was reading it properly.

I wouldn't add anything. You already have a high quality synthetic in there. All should be good.

I like that they have not gone to push button shifting. I know it is coming in all vehicles but I still like to use a shift stick.

Nice choice of vehicle. I'm sure if you go to the Honda forum you will learn all about any problems just like on here. Personally, I think you will be fine since you take care of your vehicles. Might want to do a used oil analysis when you get some miles on it like after 10k miles. That will let you know how it is performing and if there is a fuel issue. If you do go with Polaris labs, aka Oil Analyzers. Their test for fuel in the oil is up to date from what I was told and Blackstone still uses an older method that isn't as accurate.

That is cool if it is that easy but like myself, I'm more of a visual person and that is why YouTube is my go to for anything I need to figure out and I'm sure there are more like me out there and it would help us all out. Thanks.

Please post a video on how you accomplished this. That way we can see how it is done and would save us all some serious time in doing so.

It is my understanding that they are not available in SS and you have to have yours painted. But I could be wrong, but from all the info I have come across this is the only way.