Michigan Industrial Tool Torque Wrenches--good Enough?

[jbeall]

Hi All,

 

I've been looking around for a torque wrench. Harbor Freight carries a few, and another one I've found are these Michigan Industrial Tool torque wrenches:

 

http://www.mit-tool.com/tekton/categories....=12&sub=138

 

I'm thinking of picking up the a 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" wrenches (the three that come with a red case).

 

As best I can tell Michigan Industrial Tool is an Asian import. I haven't been able to find any negative reviews from somebody who actually owns any of their tools, just general negativity about Asian imports--which, I know, is often well-deserved.

 

I could go out and spend several hundred dollars on "quality" torque wrenches, but I'm wondering if these would be good enough. They're just going to be used for basic maintenance, like fluid changes and torquing the lug nuts on the wheels.

 

They do come with lifetime warranties--but I have no idea how good they are at actually backing up that warranty if you have a problem.

 

You can pick these up on Amazon.com for around $30 apiece.

 

Anybody here used Michigan Industrial Tools? Anybody think that it would be a better value to spend 5 to 10 times as much for somebody like me, who is probably going to use these tools two or three times per year?

 

-Josh

[cerbomark]

I m thinking a real cheap one may not be very accurate.

[Spurshot]

 

If you buy a torque wrench, chances are it'll never ever see a calibration check again in it's life. Therefore, I'd recommend a beam/needle type torque wrench. The "micrometer" type or dial/digital types have internal springs that weaken over time and actually need calibration over time. A bending beam will always be the same and zeroing it is obvious.

 

When it comes to brands, I'd stick with a reputable American made one. Even if you buy an American made bending beam type at a garage sale, it'll be better than a Chinese copy. Torque wrenches are usually a dime a dozen at pawn shops.

[jbeall]

What kind of torque wrenches do you guys have? Have you ever used any Michigan Industrial Tools stuff?

[thearborbarber]

I have an MIT 1//2 drive torque wrench. It's OK for lug nuts but that's about it. I have a S-K torque wrench that is used for precise stuff. had a craftsman and it failed after a year. Torque wrenches are covered by the lifetime guarantee by craftsman.

[WaterGuy]

1 Kobalt 10-100 ft-lb 3/8" drive 18" overall length clicker.

1 HuskyPro 50-250 ft-lb 1/2" drive 27" overall length clicker.

1 ??? in-lb MIA.

[Spurshot]

Utica 0-300 in/lb micrometer type

S-K 100-700 in/lb micrometer type

Craftsman 10-100 ft/lb micrometer type (circa 1975)

[WaterGuy]

Utica 0-300 in/lb micrometer type

S-K 100-700 in/lb micrometer type

Craftsman 10-100 ft/lb micrometer type (circa 1975)

I'm drawing a mental blank on this type.

Please describe for me.

[bigland]

Utica 0-300 in/lb micrometer type

S-K 100-700 in/lb micrometer type

Craftsman 10-100 ft/lb micrometer type (circa 1975)

I'm drawing a mental blank on this type.

Please describe for me.

 

 

It has a graduated twist knob at the end of the wrench handle to set the torque for the wrench to "crack" at.

[jbeall]

Utica 0-300 in/lb micrometer type

S-K 100-700 in/lb micrometer type

Craftsman 10-100 ft/lb micrometer type (circa 1975)

I'm drawing a mental blank on this type.

Please describe for me.

 

 

It has a graduated twist knob at the end of the wrench handle to set the torque for the wrench to "crack" at.

 

 

That sounds like it's the same as what I think of as a "click type" torque wrench. Is it the same or is a "click type" torque wrench different in some way?

[C. Charles Hahn]

That sounds like it's the same as what I think of as a "click type" torque wrench. Is it the same or is a "click type" torque wrench different in some way?

 

Yes, that's exactly what it is. "Click Type" and "Micrometer Style" are the same thing.

[REV353]

I bought a 1/4" years ago and it's been fine. I rebuild allot of motorcycle,ATV and snowmobile engines and not ever have I had one come back. I took a chance on one, it's been good, how long I am not sure. There isn't to much rocket science with a 1/4" and if your off an inch pound or two you won't know the difference. That said, there is know way in god's green earth I'd skimp on a 3/8 or 1/2, what those nut's and bolts are holding are very important and I choose not to be off even a LB. You know what you be using it for and weather you have the experience to know if something is off or wrong Any doubt, buy a name brand.

[1/2tonchevy]

Name brand would be better but if u don't want to spend the $$$ u could buy the cheaper one and check the caliberation from time to time. All you have to do is put the square drive in a vice and pull on it with a fish scale, Torque=Distance x Force so if you set your wrench to 50 ft/lbs and pull 50 lbs on the fish scale 1 ft away from the center of the square drive the wrench should click (50lbs x 1 ft= 50ft/lbs).

[WaterGuy]

Name brand would be better but if u don't want to spend the $$ u could buy the cheaper one and check the caliberation from time to time. All you have to do is put the square drive in a vice and pull on it with a fish scale, Torque=Distance x Force so if you set your wrench to 50 ft/lbs and pull 50 lbs on the fish scale 1 ft away from the center of the square drive the wrench should click (50lbs x 1 ft= 50ft/lbs).

On my HuskyPro 50-250 ft-lb 1/2" drive 27" overall length clicker, do I use a shark scale or a whale scale?

[1/2tonchevy]

 

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s...OSSSELL_PRODUCT this would work..... and no its not really a fish scale but if i said "Straight Scale" no one would know what i was talking about