Jump to content

Out with the old...In with the new...

LOHRTBT

Recommended Posts

LOHRTBT Enthusiast

LOHRTBT

Posted
Posted

Well, I finally got the go ahead to get my new motor and tranny.

My truck had the original 305 with TH350 tranny. Both have been over hauled and many go fast parts were on the motor but it was still a terd!! hahaa  It could only muster 162hp to the rear wheels. :( ACK!

The 3 spd tranny worked well, but I hate not having overdrive!! So I got to work, I will have pics to post later, but for now, just a description. :) I pulled all accessories, pulled the hood and pulled out the front coresupport and radiator and all that jazz!  Got the motor and tranny all pulled out with minimal effort and not really any hitches.

Sold the motor, Trying to sell the tranny.(?).  I finally ordered the motor (GM Crate 350 Deluxe)and tranny(Tranny Doctors 700R4 w/ Stage 2 shift kit).  The motor ( http://www.paceparts.com/350_ho_deluxe.htm ) is complete from oilpan to airfilter. All I will have to add is my accessories and a fuel pump and thermo.  I decided to go ahead and put some more chome on it while I was at it so I ordered a new chrome waterpump, fuel pump, alternator, and all acc. brackets done in chrome.

The motor and tranny should be here by August 10th.  I am dying of anticipation!! :)  Taking the factory radiator to be repaired of some small leaks,stripped and repainted what I could in the engine bay, redid all the headlight and turnsignal wiring which may have proved to be worthless since I am probably buying the 91 sub front core and light setup! haha.

I am going to re-wrap all my existing wires with dark blue corrugated wire loom and replace the black that is currently there.  Planned on ordering a full set of energy suspension poly bushings but may put that aside since I want the new front.  Figure it makes sense while I have it out already. :)

I also ordered a new battery mount from GM since mine was rusted out and I think I will add a nice chrome and blue flex fan. :)

Lemme know if you have any suggestions or "coaching" for me on my project! hehe I hope to have her up and running by Sept. 1.  That is my goal and I hope to beat it but wont hurry doing so.

Sorry its so long but I figured it would help add some much needed posting on the board. :)

76BBSub Enthusiast

76BBSub

Posted
Posted

Sounds like you are heading in the right direction.

About the only advice I would have is that you should go ahead and do the front suspension while the engine is out, it is MUCH easier than when in.  It's not that tough with it in, but getting to some of the bolts is easier, AND you'll be able to repaint the frame underneath and behind the control arms.  It really makes for a more "finished" look.  I did the urethane bushings on my Suburban with the engine in place, it's not a bad job, but having done my Corvette with the engine out I can say it's easier that way.

Also, for a couple hundred bucks from Summit you can get some DynoMax CeramCoat headers that will dress up the underhood and make your truck run and sound better too!  I have these on my Suburban (454 though) and they are a great value.  The crate 350 will breathe a little easier, and like I said, the Ceramic coating looks great under the hood!

Tell us more about the tranny swap, this is something I'd like to eventually do to the Sub.  Are you gonig to have some mechanism (switch, etc) for locking up the converter?  I guess you'll have your driveshaft shortened?  How much is the tranny?

Thanks!

Jeff

LOHRTBT Enthusiast

LOHRTBT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes, I am really wanting to do the bushings with the motor out for the same reason. :)

 

I actually have a set of new headers, I just need to get them Coated.

On to the tranny swap.   The shop told me that my TH350 was controlled electronically, thus the reason for the plug that goes to it.  He said it is some sort of lockup device, so I will not require it.  He is just giving me a new connector to splice onto it.   Ordinairily, like in your case, yes you will have to buy a torque convertor lockup kit.  It runs about ? and it is installed in the tranny pan area.  It has 2 wires from the description that I got, one goes to power and one goes to ground.  Then I believe it has either a switch or it can be hard wired.   I dont see much of a reason to have it switched personally. :) It will take care of locking the convertor.   From what I hear, its pretty easy and painless.

Yes, I am going to have the drive shaft shortened, luckily I work out with a guy that does this for a living and he is gonna cut and balance it for ?.  :D

The tranny is from www.thetrannydoctor.com  it is so far the best price I can see on new tranny's anywhere.  Its going to cost me ?,258 with tax and shipping.  They do the shift kit as part of the deal.  They also include a convertor and many many extra things internally on the tranny that will prolong the life of it.  It comes with a 1 yr unconditional warranty and I have heard lots of good about thier service.  They seem very helpful and knowledgeable and have been building racing trannies for years.  Will custom build to your specifications if wanted. :)

I will take a few pics of the motor/tranny before installing :)I think I hit all your questions, feel free to fire away with more .:)

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...