Jump to content

Transmission Slipping? Gmt900 W/3600mi


Recommended Posts

Posted

So something strange has started the other day.

 

I've had my BlackBear tune for about a month, and I've loved every second of it.

The other day, when the weather started to get a little cooler, than my 2-3 shift felt really sloppy. It almost felt like it was slipping. Their was a distinct "whrrrrrr" sound coming from the rear, and I couldn't tell whether it was a sound made by some drivetrain related issue, or whether it was a groan coming from the exhaust. Regardless of where the sound was coming from, I could definitely tell that there was something going on with the shift point. It felt like it was struggling to get in gear. It happened at all levels of acceleration, but was most noticeable around the 1500RPM point on a featherlight acceleration.

 

I got kind of nervous, so I swapped out my stock TCM, and the problem seemed to subside slightly, but I could still tell it was there.

 

I did a few more tests. Put the truck in neutral, rev'd up to 1500 RPM (where I was having the worst luck with it) and sloowwwllly let off the accelerator. At about 1400 RPM, the truck would all of a sudden throttle down to about 400RPM, and you could hear the exhaust go silent for a brief second...as if the truck was about to stall out.

 

I swapped my stock ECM back in (with the stock TCM accompanying it) and again, things got better....but they weren't like the truck ran a month ago.

 

Also, once I get up to speed in 4th, there's a point when the needle is hovering around 1500RPM, that if I try to accelerate, the engine RPMs will drop down as quickly as I press the accelerator to about 1100RPM. Finally, it will downshift, but not before this distinct power loss.

 

Does anyone have any clue as to what's going on?

I want to say that the whole engine sputter thing might amplify the issue with that shift point---where the hesitation that I'm feeling as slippage, is in reality, something to do with the engine struggling.

 

Any sensors that might cause this? Could it be an issue with the crank re-learn that I got? Bad gas? I've filled up a couple times since, with quality Shell fuel. I'm clueless...

 

It's just got me concerned---thinking that I might have screwed up the tranny having too much fun with the tune---or possibly some seal in the transmission. I've read on the board that there's been problems with the 2-3 shift point, but I thought that would've been fixed in the 2009 model year.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated, guys.

 

-jG

Posted

I doubt the blackbear tune is the cause of your issue. Here's what I'd do.

 

1. Make sure you have enough tranny fluid.

2. Put back the Blackbear tune and disconnect the neg battery terminal for 20 minutes. Then reconnect it and let your truck's PC relearn everything.

3. If your still having the same issues then remove the blackbear tune and replace it with your stock PCM.

4. Remove the neg battery cable and run the same thing as in step 2. If you still have issues then it's your tranny and have it serviced under warranty.

 

Good luck and don't worry about getting it fixed under warranty. Just don't tell them.

Posted
I doubt the blackbear tune is the cause of your issue. Here's what I'd do.

 

1. Make sure you have enough tranny fluid.

2. Put back the Blackbear tune and disconnect the neg battery terminal for 20 minutes. Then reconnect it and let your truck's PC relearn everything.

3. If your still having the same issues then remove the blackbear tune and replace it with your stock PCM.

4. Remove the neg battery cable and run the same thing as in step 2. If you still have issues then it's your tranny and have it serviced under warranty.

 

Good luck and don't worry about getting it fixed under warranty. Just don't tell them.

 

And hope no one there reads GM-Trucks.com, since you have your name, location, and a photo of your truck posted in the same thread where you said you had a tune and were having fun with it.....

 

I'm just sayin' :)

 

C

Posted

....don't worry about getting it fixed under warranty. Just don't tell them.

 

.. do you think this is dishonest in any way....?

.. is this how you teach your kids ...?

 

 

My guess is your transmission is pooched... or getting there already... maybe a GM defect... maybe something you did "poor 2-3 shift" usually indicates some clutches are wearing out or maybe a shift solenoid is malfunctioning....

 

.. best to take it to the dealer and see what they have to say

Posted
....don't worry about getting it fixed under warranty. Just don't tell them.

 

.. do you think this is dishonest in any way....?

.. is this how you teach your kids ...?

 

I would not consider this dishonest. The dealer MAKES MONEY when they fix something under warranty. Sure, not as much as if it was customer pay, but they still make money off the parts and the labor. The manufacturer pays the bill. When I worked at a M-B dealer, we did everything we could to get things covered under warranty....money for us and the customer is happy. Unless it was absolutely blatant, we didn't ask any questions. The benefit of the doubt always went to the customer.

 

All that being said......I don't think there is anything that a simple tune would have done to toast a trans. Just look at all the people on this forum alone that have had a Blackbear Tune (myself included) with no issues.

Posted

Checked the tranny fluid. Not sure what this means:

 

Followed normal procedure of driving around until the tranny heated up to about 150F. Parked on level ground, idled, went through the whole range, idled. Checked fluid. Just a hair above the "Cold" range. I know the manual states that the tranny fluid is between 180-200F is considered hot...but the highest I've ever seen my fluid get is 160.

 

Y'all just think I need to add some fluid?

Posted

I wouldn't screw with it and would just take it in and ask the dealer to check it out.

 

bbwb

Posted

Make sure you put in the OEM PCM and drive it a couple of miles as the counter will register how many hours its been since the PCM was changed or battery unhooked.

Read this about warrany.

Corporate Bulletin Number 08-06-04-033 is currently available in SI.

 

Identifying Aftermarket Engine Calibrations 2.0L, 2.2L, 2.4L, 2.8L, 2.9L, 3.0L, 3.1L, 3.2L, 3.4L,

3.5L, 3.6L, 3.8L, 3.9L, 4.2L, 4.3L, 4.4L, 4.6L, 4.8L, 5.0L, 5.3L, 5.7L, 6.0L, 6.2L, 7.0L, 7.4L, 8.1L

Gas Powered Engines Only

 

Models: 2006–2009 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks

2006–2009 HUMMER H2, H3

Excluding Pontiac Vibe, G8, Chevrolet Aveo, All Saturn and Saab Models

 

Important: This bulletin applies to Gas Powered Engines ONLY. For Diesel Powered Engines, refer to Service Bulletin #08-06-04-006A.

 

If a suspicious hard part failure is observed in the engine, transmission, transfer case or driveline, perform the calibration verification described to determine if a non-GM issued engine calibration is installed. Non-GM issued engine calibrations subject driveline components to stresses different than the calibrations which these components were validated to. Repairs to transmission, transfer case and/or other driveline components where a non-GM engine calibration has been verified are not covered under the terms of the New Vehicle Warranty.

 

Instructions for Confirming Calibration Verification Number (CVN):

 

1. Go to TIS2WEB

2. Select "Calibration Information (SPS Info)"

3. Enter VIN

4. Select "Get Cal ID"

5. Select "ECM Engine Control Module"

6. Select "Next"

7. Select "Complete History"

8. Print

9. Take the printout to the vehicle along with the Tech 2®

10. Plug in the Tech 2®

11. Go to diagnostics and build the vehicle

12. Select "Powertrain"

13. Select "Engine"

14. *Select "Engine Control Module" or "PCM"

15. *Select "Module ID Information" or "I/M Information System" if module ID information selection is not available.

16. *If "I/M information System" was selected in step 15, it may be necessary to select "Vehicle Information" in order to display the calibration information.

17. Compare the calibration ID and Calibration Verification Numbers (CVN) to the Calibration Verification Numbers (CVN) on the printout.

 

* Steps may vary by controller.

 

Although the part numbers will be the same for each, it's the CVN that will determine if the calibration is GM issued. If ALL of the CVN's are EXACTLY the same, the calibration is GM issued.

 

If the part numbers match and ANY CVN's DO NOT match the printout, it is likely that a non-GM certified calibration has been installed.

 

If the CVN information is displayed as "N/A", it will be necessary to contact the TCSC to obtain the CVN information.

 

If a non-GM calibration is found to be in the ECM (CVN's on the Tech 2 do not match TIS printout) - In order to document the case — a CLEAR digital picture should be taken of the Tech 2® screen showing the VIN and the CVN's that do not match the TIS2WEB printout. The picture, VIN and reason the vehicle is currently in for service should be emailed to [email protected] and STEVEN.R. [email protected] for verification. Please copy your GM District Service Manager (DVM) on the e-mail. GM will verify if the CVN's are not GM issued and respond via e-mail within 72 hours.

Posted

I had a 2007.5 for awhile and that tranny felt really junky...sometimes it would feel like it was slipping on acceleration, but other times it did this really odd thing where when I was slowing to a stop the tranny would also slip...the first few times I thought I had been rear ended. I felt and heard a loud bang but when I checked my rear view there was nobody behind me. I never had a tune on it.

Posted
I had a 2007.5 for awhile and that tranny felt really junky...sometimes it would feel like it was slipping on acceleration, but other times it did this really odd thing where when I was slowing to a stop the tranny would also slip...the first few times I thought I had been rear ended. I felt and heard a loud bang but when I checked my rear view there was nobody behind me. I never had a tune on it.

 

 

Feeling the same thing.

 

And then whenever I decelerate, you can literally feel it downshifting, and with the windows down, hear the engine groaning. So strange...

Posted

Are you serious, come on, really? Unless when the op said he "enjoyed the tune a few times" ment he went to the drag strip then I doubt it's the tune. And GM's no saint either, how many times have they gotten out of warranty work when it should have been covered, piston slap is just one that comes to mind.

 

 

....don't worry about getting it fixed under warranty. Just don't tell them.

 

.. do you think this is dishonest in any way....?

.. is this how you teach your kids ...?

 

 

My guess is your transmission is pooched... or getting there already... maybe a GM defect... maybe something you did "poor 2-3 shift" usually indicates some clutches are wearing out or maybe a shift solenoid is malfunctioning....

 

.. best to take it to the dealer and see what they have to say

Posted

There was a time, not really THAT long ago, when GM designed transmissions to be able to withstand the power of the engines they installed in front of them. They didn't need arguably dishonest things like "Torque Management" to make sure their components didn't break. In the 60s they made 425+ HP V8s and had several transmission options that would survive. Now they can't make one that can reliably take 325HP so they use computers to minimize their repair costs. And we just gave them billions...

I wouldn't feel guilty at all. If they made the truck with the power you wanted in the first place, you would have bought that one.

Posted

If you play with fire, you are gonna get burned. If GM covers it, be thankful, but if they deny it and flag the truck, can you really blame them?

Posted
If you play with fire, you are gonna get burned. If GM covers it, be thankful, but if they deny it and flag the truck, can you really blame them?

 

Do you honestly think that with 1000 miles driven with a tune (and when I say "had fun"---I meant race a Ford or two at a stoplight) that you should have clutch trouble on a brand new truck? I wasn't running moonshine or anything...

 

I don't care if this truck had a stick shift and I burned it out 24/7---you should be able to get more than 500-1000 miles on it.

Posted
Do you honestly think that with 1000 miles driven with a tune (and when I say "had fun"---I meant race a Ford or two at a stoplight) that you should have clutch trouble on a brand new truck? I wasn't running moonshine or anything...

 

I don't care if this truck had a stick shift and I burned it out 24/7---you should be able to get more than 500-1000 miles on it.

 

Return it to stock, drive it to the dealer, tell them it is broken, and you will find out if GM will cover it, and what is wrong.

 

Play stupid and like others have said, hope that GM does not log in here and read forums, or do a google search on your name to see what comes up.

 

Good luck, keep us posted.

 

My 2 kopeks, warranties are nice things to have, so why jeopardize it. Safest bet is leave it stock until warranty runs out, or do so at your own risk. It is your truck, do what you wish.

 

JMHO.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,863
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Bulldogger
    Newest Member
    Bulldogger
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 1 Anonymous, 798 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I figured you would know about it.
    • It added a cost layer to an already limited production supply. True that. 
    • Swap costs and supply/demand balance. When a barrel comes out of the ground the entire range of products are present but not all at the same percentage.    Breakdown of Refined Products The following table summarizes the approximate output from a standard 42-gallon barrel of crude oil: Product Type Gallons per Barrel Percentage of Total Gasoline 20 gallons 45% Diesel Fuel 9 gallons 21% Other Products 13 gallons 31%   Most of that diesel figure is 'straight run' or cut from the barrel. Gasoline 'cut from the barrel runs 0 to 20% at the crude. So in the crude unit there is more diesel the gasoline, usually.  The full refining experience however gives the tabled values. Ego there is half the diesel than gasoline after the 'first crack' That could be an FCC unit, or Isomax or....   Those units take heavy products and break the big ones into little ones. Those numbers are harder to get hold of but directionally it ends up the same.    Really light products are very profitable. Ethylene and Propylene to name two. Those are cracked from slightly heavier feeds like NG and Propane and Ethane. The cracker harshness determines the feed for distillation. Those feeds come from less profitable products like diesel and gasoline.    So...there is a swap cost. How much market is there TODAY and what crude am I running TODAY..... what is my process capable of always.    There is this as well. The USA uses allot more gasoline than it does diesel so in the cracker the process is tilted to gasoline production which....limits supply of diesel. OTR uses the most and it has different requirements than automotive and agricultural.  Limiting auto products.    You are correct however. It is less refined, just less of it. Allot less. 
    • Most thermostatically controlled ATF systems use a 'wax' pill just like the one in your water thermostat. They work on the expansion volume of the wax and the pill is constructed in such a way as to limit the travel to remain within that range. This means it has an opening temperature often called the 'cracking temperature' and a fully open temperature. For whatever reason oil is designated by it's fully open temperature and water by it's cracking temperature.    Between the two it the "Regulating Temperature" The entire range is about 20 F from closed to open. In your example the lower limit, opening point of 145 F then has a fully open temp of 165 F and a throttling temperature of 155 F.    Thing is, the throttling temperature needs two things to work properly. Enough system load high enough to reach the minimum and a heat sink (cooler/exchanger) large enough to prevent any load applied from exceeding the fully open temperature.    If your system exceeds the fully open temperature it is screaming MORE COOLER.    Here is the silly part of the whole thermostat system where the oil is cooled/heated by the radiator. Nothing is flowing to that system until the oil temperature reaches the cracking temperature unless it is equipped with a minimum flow bypass orifice or a bypass built into the seating surface of the plunger. That system meant to get it up to temp quicker isn't doing a thing until WORK drives if from ambient to cracking temp. One a cold winter day, like zero F, it may never get hotter than about 110 F. Sometimes not even that.    People forget or are young enough to not know that until this millennia transmissions were cooled by the radiator cold tank alone and without a thermostat at all.  In the 50's they weren't even cooled. OEMs learn everything the hard way.    When an OEM tells you the trans "Works best" between 175 F and 220 F it means works best for THEM. The transmission thermostat is fuel play. If you watch you trans temps like I do you will learn that it may take a hundred miles if you are not towing and not driving more than say 55-60 mph on a zero F day to even reach 120 F and it might sit there all day if it's colder. Yet if functions perfectly over about 100 F. It may need to get a bit warmer for the fuel and spark maps to go without an multiplier.    Worry more about too hot. Use a cooler large enough to put that thermostat in range.         
    • Around 2008 if memory serves they took sulfur out. That was when diesel went up. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...