Jump to content

Can You Run Your Parking Lights As Drl?


Recommended Posts

Posted

"I don't think parking light laws have anything to do with DRLs."

 

"You are absolutely correct. They are two different animals."

 

Actually they do. If you run your "parking lamps" as your DRLs, then you have violated the law against operating the vehicle while moving using just the "parking" lamps. Unless you also have your headlights illuminated, it remains a violation, at least in CA. My son was recently stopped, but not ticketed, for driving his 1978 Cadillac Coupe de Ville with his parking lights on (during the day). The CHP told him he cannot do that, and that was the reason for the stop.

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted
"I don't think parking light laws have anything to do with DRLs."

 

"You are absolutely correct. They are two different animals."

 

Actually they do. If you run your "parking lamps" as your DRLs, then you have violated the law against operating the vehicle while moving using just the "parking" lamps. Unless you also have your headlights illuminated, it remains a violation, at least in CA. My son was recently stopped, but not ticketed, for driving his 1978 Cadillac Coupe de Ville with his parking lights on (during the day). The CHP told him he cannot do that, and that was the reason for the stop.

 

I still want to know how this can be the law if there are vehicles that come from the factory using the amber lamps on the front of the vehicle as DRLs.

 

Perhaps the confusion here is that people think wiring the DRLs to use the front amber "turn signal" or "parking" lamps will also illuminate the tail lamps, which is simply not the case.

Posted
"I don't think parking light laws have anything to do with DRLs."

 

"You are absolutely correct. They are two different animals."

 

Actually they do. If you run your "parking lamps" as your DRLs, then you have violated the law against operating the vehicle while moving using just the "parking" lamps. Unless you also have your headlights illuminated, it remains a violation, at least in CA. My son was recently stopped, but not ticketed, for driving his 1978 Cadillac Coupe de Ville with his parking lights on (during the day). The CHP told him he cannot do that, and that was the reason for the stop.

 

I still want to know how this can be the law if there are vehicles that come from the factory using the amber lamps on the front of the vehicle as DRLs.

 

Perhaps the confusion here is that people think wiring the DRLs to use the front amber "turn signal" or "parking" lamps will also illuminate the tail lamps, which is simply not the case.

 

 

 

Exactly, I think there was more to this stop than just warning the driver about the lights. Sounds like a classic case of stereotyping.

  • 7 months later...
Posted
Sorry the pictures are not the best I left my DSLR at home and I only have a POS camera at the shop.

 

I'm just going to give a brief rundown of what to do and the pics are in order to help you figure it out. I don't have time to write a proper how to right now. Perhaps someone who does the mod after me can do better.

 

This only applies to GMC's. I am pretty sure Chevy's are different but I never looked into it.

 

First remove the 4 - 13mm bolts holding the drivers side fender brace. It connects the fender to the firewall and is above the fuse panel. (Not shown)

 

Then remove the fuse panel cover (Not shown)

 

Next lift up the two handles to release the fuse panel

2.JPG

 

 

Completely remove the fuse panel to expose the plugs underneath

6.JPG

 

 

 

Gently release the 4 clips holding the X1 connector in place. The X1 is the grey one in the passenger front corner.

 

 

4.JPG

 

 

Next flip the harness over and you will see 2 brown wires in position F8 and F5. F8 goes to the left front park lamp and F5 goes to the front right.

 

5.JPG

 

 

Cut the 2 wires.

 

DSC06625%20(Large).JPG

 

 

Strip them and solder in a 6 amp diode to each wire. The band on the diode should be facing away from the fuse panels as shown. This isolates the front park lamps from the rest of the truck so when we supply power to them it doesn't feed back to the rest of the park lights.

 

DSC06626%20(Large).JPG

 

 

Next solder in 2 more 6 amd diodes as shown.

 

DSC06627%20(Large).JPG

 

Next cut the Dark Blue wire coming out of B3 of the X1.

 

DSC06630%20(Large).JPG

 

Next use I used 3m amalgumating tape and 3m electrical tape to seal up the connections, then twist the 2 remaining diodes together and solder the dark blue wire from B3 (fuse panel side) to 2 diodes.

 

DSC06629%20(Large).JPG

 

DSC06631%20(Large).JPG

 

 

Next seal up all your connections.

 

DSC06633%20(Large).JPG

 

 

Now put it all back together

 

DSC06635%20(Large).JPG

 

 

And here is the finished result. As you can see only the front park lamps are on when the DRL's are supposed to be on.

 

DSC06642%20(Large).JPG

DSC06641(Large).JPG

 

 

Here's a shot with the park lamps on to show you they work normally. You can see the rears are on because I have turned the park lamps on.

 

DSC06643%20(Large).JPG

 

 

 

And finally all my lights on at once :)

 

DSC06646%20(Large).JPG

 

 

I know the post is old, but did this have any effect on the turn signals? Meaning, do the turn signals work properly after the modification?

Also, any issues after doing this mod?

 

Getting ready to order me a new 2011 and am looking at putting together my modification list!

 

Thanks!

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
OK, dmaxpower, I have to ask.... where did you get your 6A relays from?

 

I went in to Radio Shack today and all they had were 3A and smaller, and the auto parts stores I talked to looked at me like I was speaking in tongues when I asked if they had any 6A diodes....

 

Any Radio Shack should be able to obtain these:

 

6 amp diode

 

I know the info is a little late, but thought it could help others.

  • 6 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I tried searching my hard drive and can't find anything saved on this. Does anyone by chance have the photos saved?

Posted

Ok. So I found the pinout for the truck, and between the original photo-less instructions, my memory, and the diagrams, I have a guide attached. Please note, I am not good at writing for the layman and the guide is best suited for the electrically-inclined. Sadly, the electrically-inclined could likely come up with the same information as I typed out on their own given the same information. Alas, this is the best I can provide, hopefully someone can 'translate' this into a guide 'for dummies' per se. Please note, I put the diodes in a project box, ran wires out the side of the project box, and used hot glue to waterproof the project box. So, all I had was five wires to be soldered to the wires listed, not the actual diodes themselves. I would recommend this route. However, it does work just fine either way.

Instructions.pdf

Instructions.pdf

Instructions.pdf

Instructions.pdf

Posted

Like stated above, does this affect the turn signals at all? If the parking lights are illuminated when the truck is on, how is power interrupted when the blinker is put on?

Posted
Like stated above, does this affect the turn signals at all? If the parking lights are illuminated when the truck is on, how is power interrupted when the blinker is put on?

 

This is the same as parking lights being on. The lights will flash brighter when you turn the turn signal on, just like at night. The difference is that only the front lights come on in the turn signal area instead of the turn signal area, the far edges of the headlight, and the tail lights. Turn signals work just fine.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Quick question. I know this is an old thread, but what do you do with the other side of the dark blue (B3) wire that you cut? Do you just leave it?

  • 3 years later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...