Jump to content

Vette Servo Is Going In Thursday

02silveradols

Recommended Posts

02silveradols Enthusiast

02silveradols

Posted
Posted

I'm going to have a shop do it that a buddy of mine runs. It won't cost all that much and this way I know it's in right and don't have to worry about breaking anything. Been reading problems that people are having installing them and I figured a lift would make it much easier. I'll let you know how it goes.

stadt11 Senior Enthusiast

stadt11

Posted
Posted

It really is easy to do, no need for a lift.

 

Let us know your impressions after it's installed :thumbs:

dlstewart01 Senior Enthusiast

dlstewart01

Posted
Posted
Unless he is doing it for free, you are wasting your money. It's a piece of cake. :thumbs:

 

 

Now it may be for you young guys, but for us old crotchy men with gnarled fingers, that damn snap ring can be a b!tch. No problem though I kicked that snap rings azz........

 

It is easy, just make sure the snap ring is ALL the way in its grove.

 

 

Let me tell you a story. I restored British sports cars(Triumphs) for a number of years.

 

The first time I took a Laycock Da Normanville Electrically operated over drive apart. They have an anti reversing clutch to keep the trans from going into overdrive in reverse. Anyway this mechanism is a two piece shell with springs and do-hinkeys in it.

 

I am holding it in one hand and reading the manual and it says DO NOT DISSEMBLE THIS UNIT as it requires a special factory tool to put it back together, about that time it slipped out of my hand hit the floor and parts went everywhere.

 

At that time Al Gore had not invented the Internet, so I couldn't get on there and cry to everybody and ask how to get it back together.

 

I gathered up the parts saw how they went together and all I needed was a large rubber band to hold the springs in while I snapped the two halves together

 

I say it was a piece of cake....

rodram Enthusiast

rodram

Posted
Posted

It is easy, just make sure the snap ring is ALL the way in its grove.

 

... or the transmission casing will crack

 

... like Don (dlstewart01) says.... sometimes us old geezers think that paying a hours labour at a good shop is a good investment in reliability...

dlstewart01 Senior Enthusiast

dlstewart01

Posted
Posted
It is easy, just make sure the snap ring is ALL the way in its grove.

 

... or the transmission casing will crack

 

... like Don (dlstewart01) says.... sometimes us old geezers think that paying a hours labour at a good shop is a good investment in reliability...

 

I ain't paying a shop sh!t as long as I can get my old gnarled fingers to hold a wrench.

music Senior Enthusiast

music

Posted
Posted
Is it obv. if the snap ring is not fully seated?

 

Sure... after the servo drives into the casing w/ 400 psi behind it :thumbs: (kidding... a little...)

tobias Senior Enthusiast

tobias

Posted
Posted
Is it obv. if the snap ring is not fully seated? Thats my biggest worry. Hopefully the guys will be able to tell if it's seated correctly.

 

You should be able to see if the snap ring is in place on the bottom half since it'll be visible in spots through the notches in the housing. On the top you'll need to feel and make sure it is in place. To do this, I used the pick I had for pulling out the o-ring and ran it all the way around. If it doesn't go back farther on top than it does on the bottom, the ring is in place and seated. If your pick slides in behind the ring or gets forced out towards you then the ring is just wedged in there and still needs to go back more.

 

The most important thing here is to apply enough pressure when putting it in that the snap ring isn't difficult to get started. A lot of guys that had the 30 minute struggles just didn't have the cover pressed far enough in. It didn't take 30 minutes for the entire operation when I did it. The snap ring only took about one.

dlstewart01 Senior Enthusiast

dlstewart01

Posted
Posted
Is it obv. if the snap ring is not fully seated? Thats my biggest worry. Hopefully the guys will be able to tell if it's seated correctly.

 

You should be able to see if the snap ring is in place on the bottom half since it'll be visible in spots through the notches in the housing. On the top you'll need to feel and make sure it is in place. To do this, I used the pick I had for pulling out the o-ring and ran it all the way around. If it doesn't go back farther on top than it does on the bottom, the ring is in place and seated. If your pick slides in behind the ring or gets forced out towards you then the ring is just wedged in there and still needs to go back more.

 

The most important thing here is to apply enough pressure when putting it in that the snap ring isn't difficult to get started. A lot of guys that had the 30 minute struggles just didn't have the cover pressed far enough in. It didn't take 30 minutes for the entire operation when I did it. The snap ring only took about one.

 

 

 

Once I figured out what he said, I could put it on in a minute.

tonygxp Enthusiast

tonygxp

Posted
Posted

I put the vette servos in my TBSS, waist of time. I noticed nothing. I then bought the billet servos and put them in and what a difference. nice and crisp on the shifts. Granted it was like $30 v $150, but it was worth it.. Just my $.02 best of luck with your truck.

tobias Senior Enthusiast

tobias

Posted
Posted
Thanks for the replies. I will use this to my buddy when he puts it in. I'm hoping for some sort of a firmer shift. Hopefully I can feel it.

 

Have this installed and then have a Black Bear tune and ask for the FIRM shift setup and you'll be all set. I installed my servo kit in preparation for my tune and while it did improve the speed of the shifts from 1-2 and 2-3, the tune REALLY did the job. My Tahoe is so much more drivable now.

GPSilverado Enthusiast

GPSilverado

Posted
Posted
Thanks for the replies. I will use this to my buddy when he puts it in. I'm hoping for some sort of a firmer shift. Hopefully I can feel it.

 

 

I just installed mine this past Saturday. It was fairly easy to do. Don't expect something that shifts hard though. Mine definitely feels firmer, but to me it seems like it should feel from the factory, instead of too soft like before the servo.

 

The snap-ring took me about 5 minutes, but only 1 minute to install, and the other 4 trying to make sure it was all the way in. One word of advice though, when the pin and piston assembly is being placed back into the case, once it is lined up properly, it should slide in fairly easily. If you have to put much pressure at all to insert it, then pull it back out and check the seal on the piston (the square cut seal that is split). I read where someone else had cut theirs and had issues.

 

Very easy install though, but that exhaust pipe limits your ability to see what you are doing when putting the snap ring back in. An inspection mirror would be most helpful for making sure the ring is properly in place.

DFWSierra Enthusiast

DFWSierra

Posted
Posted

I will be putting in my vette servo next week. My last truck I went with the billet servo and I thought it was too much for a stock transmission. It would shift hard at part throttle and would chirp the tires every single time from 1-2. I don't think that is good thing in the long run. Hopefully I can tell a difference with just a vette servo. Doesn't a TBSS servo have slightly more holding power than the servo that comes in our trucks?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • needafix
      2019+ Brake failure, it's complicated

      By needafix · Posted

      I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Donstar
      Navigating senior years.

      By Donstar · Posted

      Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
    • Another JR
      Trailer TPS Sensor Question Rim Size

      By Another JR · Posted

      Grommets with the right cement should be perfectly fine. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      This is going to take allot of Assembly    
    • PunchT37
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      Why do they have the gas 10l80 opening at 145?

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...