Jump to content

Rear Brakes Dragging?


Recommended Posts

Posted

OK here's the deal. I had to do a last minute rear brake job on my wife's '03 Chevy this weekend. The brakes were bad off and needed to be replaced pronto. So I take the stock pads and rotors off, go to the parts store and get a replacement set. I get home and everything seems to be going back together pretty easily. Now, here's the issue. The new pads came with some shims for each pad; not real thick, only a few MM each. I figured that since they were included I'd install them. I did that and managed to get the driver's side caliper back on easily enough. The passenger side caliper was pretty tough to compress and it barely fit over the pads. But I managed to get it done. On the ride home my wife said that it seemed like the truck was slower and when you go back to the back of the truck the wheels are hotter than the front and you can smell the brakes (both sides,) leading me to think that the new brakes are now dragging for some reason. I checked the brake fluid and it was filled to the top of the reservoir so I removed some fluid from there, however the dark color is not making me feel warm and fuzzy.

 

My question is, shoudl the new pads not have those shims on them? If that's not it, are there any other things to consider...maybe I need to pull the pads and grease the grooves they slide in? Is there a way to check the calipers to see if they are shot? Maybe it's time to change the brake fluid (truck has 125k on it.)

 

HELP!!

Posted

Without the caliper on the rotor bracket the pads must slide freely on the slide, if not the shims and i am guessing (no picture) on the slides should not be there. If the pad slides hard then file clearance to make them fit and move slowly.

 

OK here's the deal. I had to do a last minute rear brake job on my wife's '03 Chevy this weekend. The brakes were bad off and needed to be replaced pronto. So I take the stock pads and rotors off, go to the parts store and get a replacement set. I get home and everything seems to be going back together pretty easily. Now, here's the issue. The new pads came with some shims for each pad; not real thick, only a few MM each. I figured that since they were included I'd install them. I did that and managed to get the driver's side caliper back on easily enough. The passenger side caliper was pretty tough to compress and it barely fit over the pads. But I managed to get it done. On the ride home my wife said that it seemed like the truck was slower and when you go back to the back of the truck the wheels are hotter than the front and you can smell the brakes (both sides,) leading me to think that the new brakes are now dragging for some reason. I checked the brake fluid and it was filled to the top of the reservoir so I removed some fluid from there, however the dark color is not making me feel warm and fuzzy.

 

My question is, shoudl the new pads not have those shims on them? If that's not it, are there any other things to consider...maybe I need to pull the pads and grease the grooves they slide in? Is there a way to check the calipers to see if they are shot? Maybe it's time to change the brake fluid (truck has 125k on it.)

 

HELP!!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,732
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    user087
    Newest Member
    user087
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 769 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Here's a starter kit:    CC Jensen, a Danish oil testing Concern gives us the following guidelines:   ISO 14/12/10 Very Clean Oil ISO 16/14/11 Clean Oil ISO 17/15/12 Lightly Contaminated ISO 19/17/14 New Oil ISO 22/20/17 Very Contaminated and not suitable for any service.   In addition CC Jensen gives a table showing how engine life is increased by cleaning up the oil. For example cleaning the oil from 19/17/14 to 13/11/8 will extend motor life by a factor of 6X.   But even cleaning it two “Life Extension Classes” will double motor life. So perhaps giving those classes would be useful:   21/19/16 20/18/15 19/17/14 18/16/13 17/15/12 16/14/11 15/13/10 14/12/9 13/11/8   *************************************   https://testoil.com/program-management/setting-iso-cleanliness-targets/   Third paragraph from the bottom will give a starting point.    Your next question should be, okay 10um at what Beta ratio and the answer is in the graph Beta 75.   Then the next question is what is your chosen filters profile? (Purolator PL series below) The red dot is Beta 75. This was the information I obtained from MANN a few years ago. So the best filters, Purolator One, AMSOIL EA, FRAM Ultra, Royal Purple, Bosch Premium should get a doubling engine life over filters like Purolator L, any service filter from any quick lube, WIX, NAPA, STP, Mobil 1, Purolator BOSS.    And as noted by CC Jensen a 2-5 micron @ Beta 200 bypass system has the capability of a six fold improvement. AMSOIL has such a system as does Donaldson.       Now having said all that testing is the touchstone. Test the oil NEW and test it with your chosen filter. Then test over milage. Do the work, get the result. But understand this in NOT absolute BECAUSE this is one factor in isolation.   Example:    A valve spring supplier can state that with cam X and a valve train of Y grams the valves will not float to 7K rpm. is that true if the builder choose a system 20 grams over limit? Common sense must be used and limits understood. 
    • This doesn't look like a GM truck. Not needed on a HD truck
    • It varies a ton around me. Some places are still at $5.00 or higher and others are way down into the $4's.   Offroad diesel was $4.02 at the one station I passed today.
    • So after reading the reveal from Chevrolet, I kept asking myself...why did the trim levels change?   Here are the official ones:   Work Truck (WT): The quintessential fleet truck, built with durable, easy-to-clean interiors for commercial or utilitarian use. Custom: A stylish, road-oriented trim that adds a more refined appearance, standard dual exhaust, and modern exterior styling. Custom Trail Boss: An entry-level off-roader featuring a 2-inch factory suspension lift and 34-inch mud-terrain tires on a budget. Silverado: Serving as the new base consumer truck (replacing the previous LT trim), it comes standard with the Z71 off-road package when equipped with 4WD. Trail Boss: Steps up the off-road hardware with the 2-inch lift, 34-inch tires, monotube shocks, an exclusive off-road hood, and more premium interior options. ZR2: The flagship off-roader. It boasts 35-inch mud-terrain tires, Multimatic DSSV dampers, front and rear electronic lockers, forged carbon-fiber interior accents, and an available hardcore Bison Edition (co-developed with AEV). High Country: The pinnacle of luxury. It replaces bright chrome with modern satin chrome, 22-inch wheels, premium leather, real wood interior trim, a panoramic sunroof, and an exclusive front-passenger touchscreen. As others have stated, why would you want a Silverado - 'Silverado' - wth?? LT needs to remain!!!   Also, there will no longer be a dedicated Z71 model.  All 4x4 trucks will have the Z71 package. Carplay is also something that cannot be removed.  Hopefully it will remain.     I am excited about the 5.7L V8 (350 C.I.D.)  Old school Chevy power.  My only concern is whatever version of AFM/DFM cylinder deactivation.  Too bad that isn't an option a buyer can choose to have or not.   I will definitely be stopping by my local dealership when these trucks start showing up.
    • I haven't seen diesel for less than $5.30 anywhere in my area
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...